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*** Transmission must be up to operating temperature to perform this test on the 4R100! ***
1. Place one gauge in the test port of the 4R100 on the drivers side ( use a six foot line so the gauge is in the vehicle while I'm seated at the Wheel.
2. Place a 3/8" "T" between the Filter and the return line. Ensure there are no kinks. The line may be looped but not kinked. Attach another Gauge to the "T" using 3/8" Transmission Line.
* Use Approved Transmission Line as the hydraulic fluid can breakdown materials used in other applications and contaminate the system You only need a six feet so it can be in the cab with you where you can monitor both gauges *
For each position (Selector) there is a specific pressure the pump emits . You can find that in the FOMOCO WORK SHOP MANUAL. Ensure the return readings are within 10% of the Pressure line readings. If you're not getting the specified head pressure at the test ports this is an indication of internal failure of either the pump or accumulator valves.
For Example: 60 PSIG Head Pressure at the Transmission Port should read no less than 54 PSIG on the return line. Anything greater than 10% indicates a blockage - severity is relevant to pressure drop. It is a closed loop system or the by-pass valve is malfunctioning.
This is TOTALLY false! It is NOT a closed loop system. The cooler circuit is NOT related to line pressure. There is no relationship between line pressure and cooler circuit pressure. Whoever wrote this procedure doesn't know much about transmissions.
Originally Posted by whitetmw
COLD: You can also test the By-Pass valve operation by putting the "T" prior to the cooler. You should read no, or just a few PSIG.
HOT: (At operating Temperature) There should be no drop in pressure.
If you read no pressure there is no flow. That's a problem. Another example that the writer of the procedure shouldn't write about transmissions.
Originally Posted by whitetmw
****If your doing a stall test DO NOT allow each test to run for more than 15 seconds with a cool down period. Internal damage to either or both the converter and transmission may occur!
15 seconds is too long. I recommend running a stall test for no more than 5 seconds at a time, with a cool down period in park or neutral after each test.
Originally Posted by whitetmw
*** There will be transmission fluid in the lines of the test equipment. Be aware when they are disconnected it will run out on to the ground. So keep the connection ends higher that the gauges to prevent spillage.
This is TOTALLY false! It is NOT a closed loop system. The cooler circuit is NOT related to line pressure. There is no relationship between line pressure and cooler circuit pressure. Whoever wrote this procedure doesn't know much about transmissions.
If you read no pressure there is no flow. That's a problem. Another example that the writer of the procedure shouldn't write about transmissions.
15 seconds is too long. I recommend running a stall test for no more than 5 seconds at a time, with a cool down period in park or neutral after each test.
Finally something that is true!
Mark, Don't doubt your knowledge one bit! You've ALWAYS steered me in the right direction.
I got this from a link to a magazine article on one of those "Premiere" 4R100 transmission rebuilding sites that many people here, and on other sites mention often.
Personally, I just use the plastic container that comes with the Ford Kit to determine the flow. It's actually easy and quick if you have someone to start / stop the engine.
I also noticed the Ford says no more that 5 seconds in their manual as well for the stall test. I almost didn't do the stall test because the factory manual has all that BOLD ITALICS about the possibility of damage.
Guess I'll be tossing that article - Thanks for setting me straight.
Will the REAL Magnefine stand up... to the task at hand?
As promised, here are some photos of the Magnefine filters dissected. Sorry it took so long, but I had to dig the boxes out, dissassemble the filters, shoot the photos, select, annotate, upload, yada yada.
I think it is educational for folks to be able to compare, in one thread, the difference between the insides of the filter you cut up, compared with the insides of the Magnefine filter. Otherwise, it is too easy to assume that just because both filters say Ford on them, and both have the same basic part number and purpose, that they are both the same. Example... Springer Pop believed that your filter would just screw open easily like the Magnefine. You found differently. These photos help identify other internal differences.
Why is this important? Because strategic placement of an external transmission filter can have a significant POSITIVE or NEGATIVE impact on transmission life.
POSITIVE Impact: Scroll up to the photo I posted of the dirty Magnefine magnet. Those radial lines of ferritic debris could have been lodged inside the nooks and crannies of the internal passages of my OTA cooler. Instead, these little lines of sludge were attracted to the magnet. Cool!
NEGATIVE Impact: If for some reason the inline filter were to become restricted, and the bypass feature malfunctioned or also became restricted, or in the case of Tom's mother in law, the filter housing itself cracked open and gushed out the transmission fluid... that would be catastrophic. Expensive. Inconvenient. All these are risks related to the quality, construction, design, and flow capacity of these external filters, if used. Select wisely.
I've read some reports critical of the Magnefine filter, but the more I investigate, the more I find that the problems may not have been with the Magnefine filter, but with either similar filters having the same part number that people ASSUME are Magnefine filters, or with knock off filters that look exactly like Magnefine filters on the outside, but have different internal construction on the inside. My examination of the real Magnefine filters finds that it is highly improbable for the bypass to get "stuck closed." Due to the plunger design, it is far more likely that the bypass valve would get stuck OPEN.
So for people who looking for the best practices and parts to maintain their vehicles... in order to make sure they get home on their own power and not get stuck with a $2500 tow bill to bring their truck and trailer home, knowing the details of what they are really getting when their mechanic says, "yeah, I put a Magnefine on it for ya" becomes important.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
