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Getting it started with no cooling system like it looks like you have it set up won't tell you if the engine is good or not.
Does it have the mechanical fuel pump on it still? If it does and it works it would probably be a big help in getting air out of the system. An electric pump is another option.
I think the first priority is to get it cranking over faster. Do you have another battery you can hook up? A set of jumper cables from a running vehicle would provide more amperage that you need.
Check Racer30's flicker feed, I am using his method of pumping water through the system. I want to start it first then run the thing with coolant, make sure the tstat works, and I will then swap it out. I have two good batteries that I have been using. He seems to think gravity is enough as long as the static timing is right on the IP. The mechanical pump seems to be working but I need to prime it with the gravity feed I think, otherwise I will run the batteries down again trying to prime it with the fuel pump.
The Way you have it wired looks good...The Starter looks like a week link now...If you can get it to turn over good she should start. Mine started pretty fast when I held the throttle about half open during the cranking attempts. You just need to get it to turn over faster...
Gravity feeding of the IP is fine, they were designed to work that way, the reason we need a pump is cause the fuel tank is 10 feet back and below the IP, also while cranking, hold the throttle wide open to help expel air faster, when its about to start you can return it to idle and crank for the last time.
Too bad about the starter, never seen one wear out there before,
What are you using for ground to the engine? Ideally if you use 00 to the starter the ground needs to be the same size, factory accomplishes this with a ground from both batteries which also forces the batteries to share instead of one of them doing most of the work.
Thanks for the info about the 00 wire needing additional ground, I want to preserve these batteries, this has been hard on them. I got the thing to turn over today, I am beginning to doubt if I got the static timing for the IP right, it should be, but I am beginning to doubt. anyway. the GP s are getting juice now. I think the starter is toast...will post todays video soon.
took the video from the rear this time, glow plugs and ether and gravity feed fuel. I think it is promising, the batteries were dog tired and the starter is pretty shot. too bad I can only work on this on weekends, maybe I can sneak a couple of after work sessions this week. a good starter would have turned it over this time, plenty of fuel and heat.
OK Sounds like the timing is to advanced....Loosen all the lines you can reach and the IP bolts and rotate the pump toward the driver side Valve cover. I can hear the engine firing to soon and that's killing your Starter.. Mark the pump and rotate it about 1/8th inch... that will be about 10* this will make it start.. Then time it with a light as soon as you can. Your very close now...
Starting good now. I tried to run some water through the cooling system and ended up with a lot of oil in there. I am thinking the oil cooler is leaking...so that sucks but not terrible since it is out of the truck, I can replace it and change the oil. I am glad I ran the test out of the truck. If anyone has any input that would be great. I filled it with water and about a quart of oil or so mixed with it, or about an inch or so floating at the top of 4 gallons of water
Thanks for all of the help, it is ready to put in as far as I can see. Changing the timing and replacing the starter made a big difference. You can hear a screech when it first starts, there was a bucket under the flywheel...bring your comments and suggestions and concerns as usual.
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