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using this video,your start to end time on the first GP cycle was:
0:36 - 0:43 = 7 seconds.
you should slow down counting 1-10 when glowing.you want a good 10-12 secs.
she started to fire good here,but just wasn't warmed enough.i bet it would have taken right off with a good 10-12 sec glow.
take a listen.
at 0:53 was her first fire,and she continued to fire a bit through 1:00 - just as you stopped turning her over.
your next glow was:
1:05 - 1:011 = 6 seconds.
and your third was:
1:36- 1:40 = 4 seconds.
sounds like she's turning over fairly well.
i would try making sure your first cycle was longer before doing anything.count to 10 slower.
in these temps,iv seen mine take a bit over 10 seconds on the first cycle.and i know everything is 100% at this point.
when's the last time you changed the return lines at the injectors?
tho,generally,from what iv been reading,with air intrusion,it will start fine,then stall.then be hard to start.id start looking at glow plugs,to make sure all 8 are in perfect condition,and cycle them longer.
using this video,your start to end time on the first GP cycle was:
0:36 - 0:43 = 7 seconds.
you should slow down counting 1-10 when glowing.you want a good 10-12 secs.
she started to fire good here,but just wasn't warmed enough.i bet it would have taken right off with a good 10-12 sec glow.
take a listen.
at 0:53 was her first fire,and she continued to fire a bit through 1:00 - just as you stopped turning her over.
your next glow was:
1:05 - 1:011 = 6 seconds.
and your third was:
1:36- 1:40 = 4 seconds.
sounds like she's turning over fairly well.
i would try making sure your first cycle was longer before doing anything.count to 10 slower.
in these temps,iv seen mine take a bit over 10 seconds on the first cycle.and i know everything is 100% at this point.
when's the last time you changed the return lines at the injectors?
tho,generally,from what iv been reading,with air intrusion,it will start fine,then stall.then be hard to start.id start looking at glow plugs,to make sure all 8 are in perfect condition,and cycle them longer.
Thanks for the info! I got the front half done with Beru's and haven't got to the back half yet, I'm gonna burn them longer next time or maybe do two cycles. As for the return lines I haven't done them yet but the PO said he did, as far as I can tell there is maybe a little leakdown issue but no visible fuel seeping out up top. I'm hoping to fix up the fuel system when I get some more cash
I noticed you had to manually back off your tumbler after cranking. I have to do the same thing. On every other vehicle I've driven, when you let go of the tumbler after cranking, it snaps back a bit to stop the starter. Is this a common issue with these trucks? My truck has a brand new tumbler.
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
when's the last time you changed the return lines at the injectors?
tho,generally,from what iv been reading,with air intrusion,it will start fine,then stall.then be hard to start.id start looking at glow plugs,to make sure all 8 are in perfect condition,and cycle them longer.
Thus far with air intrusion on mine, it'll turn over and sound like it's starting, but it won't. Then it'll crank more, turn over and start. Sometimes it'll lope/chug and stall, then start.
I noticed you had to manually back off your tumbler after cranking. I have to do the same thing. On every other vehicle I've driven, when you let go of the tumbler after cranking, it snaps back a bit to stop the starter. Is this a common issue with these trucks? My truck has a brand new tumbler.
Thus far with air intrusion on mine, it'll turn over and sound like it's starting, but it won't. Then it'll crank more, turn over and start. Sometimes it'll lope/chug and stall, then start.
Yeah the key cylinder is a problem especially when it's cold, but I just deal with it I think there is just a bunch of crud in there but it will have to be replaced sooner or later but for now I'm gonna leave it. When it's warm it springs back by itself
you should move the push button to the other side of the steering wheel so you can push it and turn it over at the same time.when it gets real cold here i glow for 9 seconds then keep it pushed for 2-3 more seconds while im cranking
I got a six second count on the first and second glow cycle as well.
-5 and I would go for a 12 second glow, start the engine.
Sucking in air that cold, it is stalling because the cylinder temps are still to low, a 3 or 4 second afterglow when it starts to get rough and stall will keep it running.
-5 to 500 degrees for the fuel to autoignite is a lot of temperature increase from one compression stroke.
you should move the push button to the other side of the steering wheel so you can push it and turn it over at the same time.when it gets real cold here i glow for 9 seconds then keep it pushed for 2-3 more seconds while im cranking
That's a good idea Thanks! I'm gonna do it this weekend when I ( hopefully) do the headlight relay mod
wow the coldest i have started my beast is 16F and it snapped to life. That is come cold weather there. I wouldnt have seen those kinds of starting conditions though because it would have been plugged in! haha Definitely move the GP switch. I saw one that was rigged to a foot switch so the guy could use his left foot to switch the gp's on and off while cranking. Reminded me of my old 49 ****** with a floor mounted dimmer.