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Hey Folks, Got the replacement engine (6.9 idi) put back together and am trying to start it but having issues. Have a look at the video and let me know of any observations you may have.
I assume you have the glow plugs disabled while using ether. It doesn't sound like it's cranking over fast enough to me. Can you get more amperage to the starter? Maybe hook up some jumper cables or a charger.
I had been trying to start it for like 1/2 hour, there are two batteries with fresh charge on them. I need a power supply that will last so I can maybe get the glows fired up. Temp is hovering right around 65, thought it would be warm enough. Use to start the old engine with ether, 10 degrees...does the engine sound right to you? it seems to lock up but maybe that is typical, after all 8 roll the crank has a counterweight maybe...
anyway, charging the batts now, may try again tomorrw if I don't just junk it...
You may have a stuck (sticking) valve. It sounds like one of the pistons is hitting something. I would pull the valve covers and have a looksie. It kind of sounded like that pass. side.
Its firing back just a bit on the ether cause your not spinning fast enough. It will take more ether than that to fire off on ether alone.... I don't see any white smoke coming out the exhaust are you sure the FSS is opening?...Oh and lube your starter bendix. It sounds like its dry...
Are they new lifters? When I bought mine I cranked it for half a day. It hadn't run for 8 years. There was a slight "puff" out of the inlet. When I removed the rocker cover the rockers were moving but not much, the lifters had bled down. I had to prime the oil pump so the lifters would pump up enough.
Sorry for the long winded reply , but my point is, if you have new lifters that are not primed it will not start. you may need to prime your oil pump to do it.
#1: starter is not spinning the engine over fast enough. put a new starter on it.
#2: the clang is a dead spot on the flywheel. you need a new flywheel.
#3: do not spray the ether in then try starting. start cranking the engine then spray the ether in.
by doing it way way you are, you can cause a hydrolock situation.
if you spray after the engine is spinning, the ether will be drawn into the cylinders evenly.
The starter is new, I will oil the bendix and see if I can get more speed out of it. This had been cranking for a half hour too...
This flywheel will have to do, there are none available after market for automatics. I can see the interface and it seems the starter just hits between teeth when it misses. I would like to have a new one but this one is in better shape than the existing one and I have been unable to find new or lkq.
I need a helper to do the ether, or I could just try to energize the glows. Thanks for the logic list, really appreciate it. I think sometimes half of my problem is working alone, when I post things start to happen. I really appreciate it all of you.
starter wire to batt was too small, need 00 ga, used 4 ga. and will connect the glows today if I can get it together. I was wondering why the lead connection melted off the start battery 2 weeks ago.
In the time you have in doing this bench testing you could have had the engine in the truck. If I may ask, why are you doing this.
I think you need more than gravity feed to the injection pump, especially if the system has air in it. I think someone already mentioned that you are getting no white smoke while cranking which means you aren't getting fuel. The white smoke is actually unburnt vaporized fuel.
I want to start it first. I have never seen it running, it is easier to work on it out of the truck. I have had black and some white smoke coming from the exhaust, the video doesn't show it. The gravity feed has made a difference, the fuel is coming out of the return lines now. I think it hasn't started because it has been in the 60s here and the glows need to be on. I don't want to rent a hoist and switch engines unless I know this one will run, heat up not over heat.
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