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Please HELP! I have a 2003 Ford F350 CCLB 6.0L. I purchased it with 112K miles and it has been an amazing truck. Today, I had my first issue ever with the truck in 2 years. When I purchased the truck, I did the following mods; FICM by Ed with atlas tune, coolant filtration kit, new oil cooler, VC9 flush and CAT EC1 coolant, EGR delete kit and the blue spring kit.
TODAY, what happend out of the blue was I was at a traffic light in the turn lane. I proceded through the light and my truck just died 1/2 way through the intersection. I coasted it into the gas station and looked under the hood to find nothing out of normal. I tried to start it and it would crank but not start. I found a bad fuse that was for the trailer battery charger. I got a fuse and replaced it. After the truck sat for 20 minutes, it started right up. I drove it 2 miles and it died again. Just shut off , no jerking just no engine. I sat and called the tow truck I got it home, she fired right up.
I have no code reader and do not konw where to start to tackle this problem. What code reader should I purchase? I know I can get one at harbor frieght for a decent price, but I've no idea of where to start looking for the problem. I work as a medic and the fire dept I work for has medic units with the 6L engine. I had a cam sensor go out in the medic unit a few years ago and it acted exactly like what is going on with my truck as of today.
Any help to figure this out is greatly appreciated. Scan tool??
Thank you for the info. I'm considering either the scangauge 2 or a cheap one at HF. I'm getting a driod phone & I heard that they have an app for keeping an eye on all gauges...forgot the program, but I"m trying to keep from spending a ton of money on this
Basically, the truck starts, runs for a while, then dies once it gets warmed up. Once it dies, it can sit for 20-30 minutes and then it will start again...for a while at least.
NO, the truck died twice. When I tried to turn the truck on after it had died, it was warmed up and the glow plug indicator did not come on. Once I got the truck home, the glow plug indicator light did come one and it cranked right up.
The truck will start. It starts like it normally does. BAM! Right away. She runs and I"m guessing that once it warms up to operating tmeps, it dies. From what I have been reading so far, the HPO is usually a crank, then no start issue. My issue is that it starts right up, warms up and dies.......
Man, I don't think so...injector problem. It has ran amazing up untill today. I have not been driving it as much becasue I got a commuter car but I drive my truck every two weeks just to keep things moving.
Josh, curious..why do you say HPOP? I just got home from the gym and I went out, truck fired right up like nothing was wrong.....unless I drive it for a few miles
Josh, That makes sence. Now, how do I dianose a leak vs a bad HPOP? I have no oil leaking under the truck & under a quick visual inspection, I have not seen any leaking oil.
The HPOP is essentially inside the LP oil system, so any HP leak will just drain back to your pan. No external oil leakage.
If you're getting an android phone, the Torque app ($5) and a bluetooth OBD2 reader ($24 shipped on Amazon prime) is a great way to go. People like the scangauge if they don't have a smartphone or if they want something permanently mounted in their truck. For diagnosing an occasional issue and just keeping an eye on the oil cooler every once in a while, the cheap $29 way is a great option if you already have an android device. There is a similar one for iphone that I'm not familiar with; I have Torque.
DO NOT get the harbor freight code reader if you want to read the 6.0 parameters that matter.
Josh, That makes sence. Now, how do I dianose a leak vs a bad HPOP? I have no oil leaking under the truck & under a quick visual inspection, I have not seen any leaking oil.
Thank you ALL for your help!
With the early 6.0 (03-04) the HPOP has a couple ways it fails. The shaft seal or a small plug blows out. The other is a cracked discharge tube.
Another factor although not likely are the oil rail o-rings or upper injector o-rings.
Do a search for HPO air test. Essentially you will remove one of the valve cover and adapt an air fitting to the oil rail and charge the system with air. Then command the IPR closed and open and listen for leaks.
Forgive me for getting ahead of myslef but I have a few more questions. I have been watching the master mechanic on youtube and it also could be an O ring at some of the connecting tubes, stand pipe, or the STC or SCT in the HPOP...right? Will a code reader tell me what exactly is the problem? I plan on getting the torque app for my new phone that i'm upgrading to in a few days. I'm hoping I can get the data I need from my truck to diagnose what is the problem with my truck.
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