When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After searching on HPO leak testing, I have a lot of questions.
First, I am upgrading my phone from an Iphone to an android. The LG android is a much more feasable cost than the iphone That being said, I am considering the Torque program to get DTC's and to help me troubble shoot this problem I"m having with my 6L truck. Will this program be sufficient, or do I need to get a scan tool?
I have read multiple threads on the HPO leak test and I have noticed multiple values for the ICP, IPR valve and such, but I do not know what sensors are all involved in the HPO leak test and what their valuse should be. What values should I see with KOEOff and/or KOEOn for ICP, IPR both pluged and un-plugged? I'm just looking for the values I need to see as "normal" so I can identify any problems.
And where do I put shop air to the system? W rail, if so where? I've been youtubing the test and have yet to find a video to tell me exactly where to put the shop air and what is the best way to get air in my system?
Finally, I have a 2003 and the 03 does not have the STC valve so IF I need to purchase a new HPOP, do I have to get a specific HPOP for my 2003 6 liter.
I will know a lot more once I get either a new phone or scan tool.
I just tested my truck. It sat all night long and I went out, started it and it fired right up like no problem. It was in idle for 25 minutes. I then put it in drive and immeadiately, it died when I put it in D, then back to P. I forgot to add, when it died, no bucking or anything like that....the truck just shut off like I turned the key off.
Well, Yesterday I sold my baby...93 GMC Typhoon and I do not have a car or truck now I'm using my dads beater but it is better than walking.
Today, I purchaed a code reader and it would not connect to my OBD2 port. I found a burned out fuse. Once I replace the fuse, I connected the code reader to my truck and I had ZERO codes? I"m wondering if the burned out fuse was the cause of my truck dying once it got warm? Who knows at this point. Consequently, the code reader does not give me any values of my IRP or ICP when it's in monitoring mode One thing that I did notice is that when my truck intially died, I heard the vaccum pump running and now my ABS light is on. Does this mean anything? Also, if my ICP, IRP, or my HOPP was not working correclty would I get a code from a code reader?
One thing I read to do was to check my secondary fuel filter, remove the cap and turn the Key on and make sure the bowl filled with diesel. I did that and it did fill. I put the cap back on and secured it. I"m just wondering if this is the problem because I'm not getting any codes.
Currenlty, my truck is running in my driveway. After 25 minutes I"m going to put her in gear and see if she dies again like she did yesterday. If she does, i'm planning on looking for codes. If not, I plan to check the fuse and then ...I don't know what I"m gonna do. Post my results here in a about 30 minutes looking for some help.
OK, she ran for 20 minutes and her temp last time I checked was 160. She shut off and would not start....NO CODES? Vaccum pump is running with KOEoff...What gives???
since I did the fuel bowl check, my truck ran for 15 minutes, died and then started right up. It has been running now for over 20 minutes and coolant is 183 deg. I wonder if my secondary fuel filter somehow got a tiny leak? Last time i changed the filters was last summer and i have 7K on my current filters and oil.
Just to follow up on my 6.0 problem..... i had no codes when I ran a obd2 code reader. Once I opened up my secondary fuel filter and turned the KOEOn, the fuel bowl filled up. I secured the cap and since I have done so, my truck is running great. I don't know why my truck all of the sudden decided to act up, maybe bad HPOP going out, maybe it was from me using my truck as a daily driver and letting her sit for the past 3 months..granted I would start her up every two weeks to keep things moving..but that's not the norm for my truck. Maybe it was the sitting?? who knows? Eitherway, I'll be watching the ICP,IRP, and HPOP once I get my Torque program and post here jsut incase we have people using the search Fcn
Just a note not all code reader are created equal:
I knew I had an injector problem so there should have been a contribution code to tell me which one(s)
SGII said no codes
Pep Boys brought out a low end code reader and showed no codes
bought the Torque app and Bluetooth adapter showed 12 codes
not saying Torque is the "end all be all" just used it to illistrate how there are some better then others. I too have an 03 engine dont know if that had anything to do with why some would not read them.
there was an old gasoline fork lift we had 20+ years ago had an issue similar to yours. Ran great all of the sudden died, wait a few mins starts up. little bit later died.... Long story short it ended up being a piece of paper like material in the fuel tank. It would get sucked down and stop fuel flow, then float back up allowing fuel to get picked up again.
sometimes it is something out of the norm.
one thing is for sure once you get that Torque App up and running monitor those gauges. ICP and IPR in particular for the HPO system just to rule it out.
Thanks for the input! I'm waiting on my blue tooth OBD2 from amazon and i'll be watching my truck very closely.
By chance do you or anyone for that matter know if the 2003-04 trucks require a different HPOP pump because our trucks don't have the SCT on it??? I"m considering just biting the bullet and doing it in a few weeks just to be safe
my money says Hpop.... the Hpop won't throw a code either and the reason you want the scangauge or the torqueapp is for real time data. that is how you diagnose a no start with no codes.
Good luck!
also if it does turn out to be the actual Hpop do yourself a favor and spend the extra 300 bucks and get the billet aftermarket Hpop and not the crappy OEM one for the 03-04 super duties.
and if you are going to be doing this much and with a Hpop leak being a near certainty in my mind I would go ahead and get dummy plugs and stand pipes swapped out for the ones with the teflon washers while you are at it.
my money says Hpop.... the Hpop won't throw a code either and the reason you want the scangauge or the torqueapp is for real time data. that is how you diagnose a no start with no codes.
Good luck!
also if it does turn out to be the actual Hpop do yourself a favor and spend the extra 300 bucks and get the billet aftermarket Hpop and not the crappy OEM one for the 03-04 super duties.
and if you are going to be doing this much and with a Hpop leak being a near certainty in my mind I would go ahead and get dummy plugs and stand pipes swapped out for the ones with the teflon washers while you are at it.
~Josh
The 03 early 04 does not have dummy plugs or standpipes.
Well, it happened again. After I had messed with the seondary fuel filter and filled the bowl then secured the cap, my truck ran without dying. Tonight, I was on my way to class when it shutoff while I was getting on to the freeway. It was like someone just turned the key off. I tried to start it and nothing. I let it sit for 5 minutes and a little prolonged start but it fired right up. I'm still waiting on my torque blue tooth adapter. It shoud be here by the weekend. I drove my truck home from the freeway ( 15 minute drive) and back to the freeway and home again with no problems. Truck did not shut off and drove like a champ...WHAT GIVES??? If it is my HPOP, I think since I'm gonna be into it so I'll do the injector O rings too.
Your thoughts and help is greatly appreciated in my frustration in trying to figure this out. I know the scanner will really point me in the direction I need to go
The 03 early 04 does not have dummy plugs or standpipes.
really? I have a late 04 and I know mine does how were they built in 03 that they didn't have those parts? anyway I don't want to derail this topic so let us know how it goes, I still stand by a HPO leak or Failing HPOP. I am on my second Hpop and when my first went it went super fast (died once and that was it) and the second one gave me just a little bit of notice. (low but not low enough to cause a no start ICP readings) and then died. so I kinda lean towards a leak in the HPO system based on my experience but I suppose a HPOP failing slowly could be possible. is there a chance maybe the IPR is causing this though? That would certainly be a cheaper fix than a HPOP.
~Josh
Last edited by Josh Baker; May 11, 2014 at 11:41 AM.
Reason: Changed HPO to HPOP
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.