Excursion mud riding advice
#1
#4
Buy a drycharger air filter cover. Keeps the filter a lot cleaner, plus can take the cover off and wash it out a lot easier than the filter.
K&N Air Filter Wraps
Also, if your getting in deep water, as in bottom of the frame rails, I'd extent the axle breathers, add a hose to the breather on the t case and trans.
The main thing about mud and water is don't go flying into it and splash the stuff everywhere. If you hit deep enough water too fast the fan can actually get pulled into the radiator n mess it all up.
K&N Air Filter Wraps
Also, if your getting in deep water, as in bottom of the frame rails, I'd extent the axle breathers, add a hose to the breather on the t case and trans.
The main thing about mud and water is don't go flying into it and splash the stuff everywhere. If you hit deep enough water too fast the fan can actually get pulled into the radiator n mess it all up.
#5
and THAT boys and girls is why I like rocks, and not mud. Too many issues with mud. a few minutes of fun=hours of cleanup.
That being said, splashguards for everything.
Any of your coolers are now clogged to some level, axle/diff fluids need to be checked to make sure that you don't have any leaks.
Mud is the devil, it gets in everywhere and the grinds on all those nice moving parts until they are no longer within tolerance.
Best solution, if you value it, get it above the level of the mud.
I took my rockcrawler in the mud exactly once, and paid for it for a year afterwards. I had to take that thing apart piece by piece and clean it, down to the point I was removing the headlight connectors and having to spray them out and clean them, clutch surfaces were shot, wheel bearings where wearing, etc. It was an expensive playtime, not that I didn't have fun(at the time) but in the long run, there is a reason why a lot of mud vehicles are purpose built, and sealed from top to bottom.
That being said, splashguards for everything.
Any of your coolers are now clogged to some level, axle/diff fluids need to be checked to make sure that you don't have any leaks.
Mud is the devil, it gets in everywhere and the grinds on all those nice moving parts until they are no longer within tolerance.
Best solution, if you value it, get it above the level of the mud.
I took my rockcrawler in the mud exactly once, and paid for it for a year afterwards. I had to take that thing apart piece by piece and clean it, down to the point I was removing the headlight connectors and having to spray them out and clean them, clutch surfaces were shot, wheel bearings where wearing, etc. It was an expensive playtime, not that I didn't have fun(at the time) but in the long run, there is a reason why a lot of mud vehicles are purpose built, and sealed from top to bottom.
#7
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#8
Back to your first question.....
You drive a v10 and so there isnt an aftermarket snorkel system.
There is one available for the 7.3 Diesel from
Safari Snorkels but not for the V10.
The recommened Diameter would fit the 6.8 too but the Diesel Snorkel uses a
an oval opening in the driverside Fender
But this exit is blocked by other stuff that you will have to relocate.
Maybe there exist a special aftermarket snorkel for v10, but I never find one
during my search for solving exact this problem.
You drive a v10 and so there isnt an aftermarket snorkel system.
There is one available for the 7.3 Diesel from
Safari Snorkels but not for the V10.
The recommened Diameter would fit the 6.8 too but the Diesel Snorkel uses a
an oval opening in the driverside Fender
But this exit is blocked by other stuff that you will have to relocate.
Maybe there exist a special aftermarket snorkel for v10, but I never find one
during my search for solving exact this problem.
#9
Use this link for the coil packs. I believe hav24wheel mentioned using o rings for each COP to help keep the cylinders dry.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-the-fix.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-the-fix.html
#10
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