On my way to the dump today with a truckload full of tree branches my truck broke down (1999 F250 SD V10).

Looking under the hood, one of the ignition coils is popped off and the round piece that the bolt goes through is broken off.

Had it towed to a mechanic (with crap still in the back!) and am awaiting his call. I know the ignition coil will need replacing, but anyone out there have experience with what can cause this, or what other bad news I may hear?

I am wondering what would even cause it to break off - a busted plug perhaps? Dreading the call that they need to re-thread or something.

What can I maybe expect? What scenarios and possible costs?

I will update this once I hear back from the mechanic.

 

Blown spark plug. Which coil was popped?

Have them put in a Timesert, Cal-Van, or Lock-and-Stitch insert. Do NOT let them put in a Dorman repair kit or a standard helicoil.

 

Not sure what number plug it is, but it is the fourth one from the front on the drivers side - or maybe the 5th one (can't recall exactly) It was difficult to access.

Any idea what to expect the cost/hours for this repair?

 

Just checked a schematic, looks like cylinder 9 or 10. From what research I am doing it looks like an expensive fix is in my future due largely to access issues. Sigh.

 

On my 01, the driver's side is easy. The passenger side, especially #5, is the PITA.

 

I am finding stuff online saying the cost to repair this is anywhere from $100 to $1500.

Wish the mechanic would call me back soon. Word on the street is that he is very trustworthy and honest - fingers crossed that holds true.

 

Okay, turns out the official answer is that the engine blew the #10 plug, taking the coil with it. Grand Total cost to repair (including parts, labour, tax, towing) $548.84. Higher cost is partially due to being the #10 plug which is a bitch to get at and sucks more time. He said about 2 hours, (noted that front ones can often be done in about an hour.)

Ouch.

Truck will be ready today. Mechanic said the '99's are horrible for this, and he said the risk of it happening on another plug is likely. He did say that the repaired one will NEVER go. Not sure the name of the kit he uses is, but he said the insert is stainless with 3/4" of thread. Said the original threading only has 4 threads!! FORD YOU IDIOTS.

Anyways, so that sucks, may sell the truck as being stranded kind of sucks, and don't really want it to happen again.

He also noted that the spark plugs all need to be changed, but he recommended I NOT change them. Said it puts that extra wear and tear on the threads and could increase chances of another blow out. Said to keep them in as long as I can - so I will take that advice.

 

I encourage you to find out the type of repair done on your truck soon. Like it was said on "Post #2" there are good brands that are considered "permanent fix" and some others are just "temporary fix " . Which one is yours ?

There are numerous posts and detailed procedures about changing spark plugs at V-10 forum (just search for it ) . Ford calls 14 Lb-ft of torque (though some in this forum preferred higher torques )

Good luck,

 

It sounds like it is definitely a 'permanent fix'. He said he uses the same tools they do at Ford. The insert is $46 at most places (Lordco charges that), but he said he has a supplier that charges $26, and is billing it to me at cost)

He told me over the phone that it will stay there forever, very confidant that it is a permanent fix. He's been in business 26 years, and was originally a Ford Mechanic back in the 80's. His shop is highly rated here in town and he has a very good reputation. (Fingers crossed that all holds to be true!)

He said he'll show me the parts and tool he used when I pick up the truck (well, he'll show me the same, but unused parts), obviously cant pull the insert out to show me

 

Glad you did not have to have the head taken off. An aluminum insert is better for the heat transfer and similar metal. Steel can cause problem transferring the heat. Good fortune.

 

Not changing the plugs is bad advice. I change mine every 20k miles and you aren't going to "wear out the threads".............the myths never quit coming

 

I agree. Why would you not change bad plugs? Unless of course you want to do your part in keeping gas stations in business.

 

If he just puts a LITTLE anti-sieze on the THREADS only. torques to 14 pounds, and doesn't skip any, he will be fine............many changes and no blow-outs.

 

Okay, for anyone following or who cares here is what has gone down

The mechanic showed me the kit he used, it was this one: JET Equipment & Tools

He said he has done many of these and has never had a problem during install, or after. He also gives a 12 month warranty on the parts & labour, so that is good.

Full diagnostic & repair was 3 hours. This was on #10 which is a crazy awkward bitch to get at, so I tend to believe him.

I have seen many videos and things on how to do this. Some pack the bits in grease to get the shavings, some blast air into the cylinder, others use a vacuum. What mine did was all three.

Bits were packed in grease, then he has an attachment he fabricated that he attaches to his shop vac and sucks out as much as he can. Next he uses his air gun (with yet another attachment he fabricated out of brake line (I think) and he blasts it with air. Next another pass with the vacuum.

Next he slowly turns over the engine using the alternator, and repeats the vac/blow steps, and then inspects with his camera. Repeats until he is confidant there are no shavings left over.

He had warned me before he started that it is possible that shavings could be left behind, and if that happened it would trash the engine - said it has never happened to him before, but two other shops in my area have had it happen (one of which was the Dealership!!). Anyways, I am told, that if any shavings were left behind it would be noticeable within seconds, so I am in the clear.

The truck ran great before, but is actually running better now, smoother idle, and even a bit quieter. I suspect that this plug was on its way out for some time and just finally gave in. Truck was under acceleration with a small load (12-1500 lbs in the back) when it blew, so I am guessing the pressure was just enough to make it go.

I am also told that the plugs all need replacing but to avoid it until absolutely necessary as it runs the risk of damaging other threads. He told me to watch for signs of miss-firing, and to do them then. I would normally do the plugs myself, but will get his shop to do it when the time comes as they have better tools and digital torque wrenches to make sure it is done as perfectly as possible. I figure if the shop does it, the risk of damage will be lower than if I attempt it myself.