? on charging system
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 531
Likes: 8
From: Bakersfield, CA
? on charging system
56 F100....This very minute I am working on the truck after just recently starting the engine. I have a one wire alternator and it appears the truck is not wired to restore power to the battery. Current wiring is one wire from alt to the back of the amp gauge. Second wire runs from amp gauge to the keyed ignition. a wire runs from the ignition to the starter solenoid. a second wire runs from the ignition splits off with one wire to the coil and one to the starter solenoid. A third larger gauge wire runs from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid has a positive and negative connection to the battery. I something in that system charging the battery? if not how do I wire it to charge the battery? Thanks
Last edited by filthy6; Apr 20, 2014 at 11:53 AM. Reason: forgot a wire
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
Likes: 1,051
From: NM
I can't believe you haven't had a battery explode if the solenoid is connected to both the positive and negative posts of the battery!! That would be a direct short across the battery when you hit the starter. Can you draw a diagram of the wiring? It sounds wrong on several counts.
The simplest 1-wire circuit is to simply run the big wire from the alt to the (+) battery post on the battery or at the starter solenoid. I would definitely not run alternator output thru the stock ammeter as you have described it.
The simplest 1-wire circuit is to simply run the big wire from the alt to the (+) battery post on the battery or at the starter solenoid. I would definitely not run alternator output thru the stock ammeter as you have described it.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 531
Likes: 8
From: Bakersfield, CA
I can't believe you haven't had a battery explode if the solenoid is connected to both the positive and negative posts of the battery!! That would be a direct short across the battery when you hit the starter. Can you draw a diagram of the wiring? It sounds wrong on several counts.
The simplest 1-wire circuit is to simply run the big wire from the alt to the (+) battery post on the battery or at the starter solenoid. I would definitely not run alternator output thru the stock ammeter as you have described it.
The simplest 1-wire circuit is to simply run the big wire from the alt to the (+) battery post on the battery or at the starter solenoid. I would definitely not run alternator output thru the stock ammeter as you have described it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
Likes: 1,051
From: NM
I should have explained about the ammeter. Your 1-wire puts out up to 65 amps (maybe more). The scale on your ammeter is -30 - 0 +30? Wired the way you have it, first of all it would likely peg under certain conditions, second it isn't showing NET flow to the battery, it's showing alternator output. That isn't all bad but it isn't the normal way to hook up an ammeter. Usually you want to see if the alternator is keeping up, i.e., showing a slight charge or even zero. Ammeters are kind of scary to me because the type you have (shunt type) can short out from excess current. Do you have unfused alternator output running to under the dash? or do you have a fusible link in the wire?
Just to get it going, run the alternator wire to the BAT post on the solenoid.
Color of cables really doesn't matter, in fact my Pos cable is black but has a BIG red label on it saying Pos. The cable to starter was always black AFAIK, probably so all the grease and oil doesn't show...
Really need a sketch to understand the rest of your wiring. Do you have a scanner?
Just to get it going, run the alternator wire to the BAT post on the solenoid.
Color of cables really doesn't matter, in fact my Pos cable is black but has a BIG red label on it saying Pos. The cable to starter was always black AFAIK, probably so all the grease and oil doesn't show...
Really need a sketch to understand the rest of your wiring. Do you have a scanner?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 531
Likes: 8
From: Bakersfield, CA
I should have explained about the ammeter. Your 1-wire puts out up to 65 amps (maybe more). The scale on your ammeter is -30 - 0 +30? Wired the way you have it, first of all it would likely peg under certain conditions, second it isn't showing NET flow to the battery, it's showing alternator output. That isn't all bad but it isn't the normal way to hook up an ammeter. Usually you want to see if the alternator is keeping up, i.e., showing a slight charge or even zero. Ammeters are kind of scary to me because the type you have (shunt type) can short out from excess current. Do you have unfused alternator output running to under the dash? or do you have a fusible link in the wire?
Just to get it going, run the alternator wire to the BAT post on the solenoid.
Color of cables really doesn't matter, in fact my Pos cable is black but has a BIG red label on it saying Pos. The cable to starter was always black AFAIK, probably so all the grease and oil doesn't show...
Really need a sketch to understand the rest of your wiring. Do you have a scanner?
Just to get it going, run the alternator wire to the BAT post on the solenoid.
Color of cables really doesn't matter, in fact my Pos cable is black but has a BIG red label on it saying Pos. The cable to starter was always black AFAIK, probably so all the grease and oil doesn't show...
Really need a sketch to understand the rest of your wiring. Do you have a scanner?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
Likes: 1,051
From: NM
I can't read what that is at top left? Overall looks good, and the way you show wiring at the ammeter, it will show what you want. You don't show any circuit breakers or fusible links, here's a simple diagram that mostly agrees with yours but show some of those. VERY important to include them! The way this diagram shows the alternator connecting is not as good as connecting at the ammeter, as far as showing what you want to see, but my concerns about the ammeter's capacity remain. A lot of people replace the ammeter with a simple voltmeter, they are more reliable and no big current flows thru them. (they are wired up differently)
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 531
Likes: 8
From: Bakersfield, CA
ALBUQ F-1....Sorry for the diagram. I am not committed to my style of ammeter if you can recommend a different style or brand. Currently nothing has a fusible link but when I settle on a wiring scheme I will wire them in. My gauge is reading +30 and I am used to other gauges that read closer to the + or - O. If you are more proficient with diagrams and scanners perhaps you could allow me to just copy your wiring. Thanks, Matt
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 531
Likes: 8
From: Bakersfield, CA
I can't read what that is at top left? Overall looks good, and the way you show wiring at the ammeter, it will show what you want. You don't show any circuit breakers or fusible links, here's a simple diagram that mostly agrees with yours but show some of those. VERY important to include them! The way this diagram shows the alternator connecting is not as good as connecting at the ammeter, as far as showing what you want to see, but my concerns about the ammeter's capacity remain. A lot of people replace the ammeter with a simple voltmeter, they are more reliable and no big current flows thru them. (they are wired up differently)
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Bowdon, GA
I'm here so I'll put in my two cents. I am also a fan of voltmeters instead of ammeters. Voltmeters aren't in-line, which means fewer heavy wires under the dash. And in my opinion they give better information about the electrical system.
A good battery should read about 12.6v with the engine off and no accessory load. About 12v with the low beams on but engine off. Between 13v - 14.5v with the engine on. If it drops below about 13, it's not charging. Above about 14.5 and the generator or alternator has problems!
A good battery should read about 12.6v with the engine off and no accessory load. About 12v with the low beams on but engine off. Between 13v - 14.5v with the engine on. If it drops below about 13, it's not charging. Above about 14.5 and the generator or alternator has problems!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dan_Johnston
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Nov 3, 2019 03:29 PM
SuperDuty93
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
9
Jun 13, 2015 12:11 PM
nahtanfunk
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Apr 15, 2007 01:58 PM