56 F100....This very minute I am working on the truck after just recently starting the engine. I have a one wire alternator and it appears the truck is not wired to restore power to the battery. Current wiring is one wire from alt to the back of the amp gauge. Second wire runs from amp gauge to the keyed ignition. a wire runs from the ignition to the starter solenoid. a second wire runs from the ignition splits off with one wire to the coil and one to the starter solenoid. A third larger gauge wire runs from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid has a positive and negative connection to the battery. I something in that system charging the battery? if not how do I wire it to charge the battery? Thanks

 

I can't believe you haven't had a battery explode if the solenoid is connected to both the positive and negative posts of the battery!! That would be a direct short across the battery when you hit the starter. Can you draw a diagram of the wiring? It sounds wrong on several counts.

The simplest 1-wire circuit is to simply run the big wire from the alt to the (+) battery post on the battery or at the starter solenoid. I would definitely not run alternator output thru the stock ammeter as you have described it.

 

I looked again and you 're right. It is a red positive from the battery to the solenoid and they substituted a black wire for the red that leads to the starter from the solenoid. How should I wire it to get a reading from the amp gauge without wiring it through the amp gauge? Thanks for your quick response. I love this site and the people on it.

 

I should have explained about the ammeter. Your 1-wire puts out up to 65 amps (maybe more). The scale on your ammeter is -30 - 0 +30? Wired the way you have it, first of all it would likely peg under certain conditions, second it isn't showing NET flow to the battery, it's showing alternator output. That isn't all bad but it isn't the normal way to hook up an ammeter. Usually you want to see if the alternator is keeping up, i.e., showing a slight charge or even zero. Ammeters are kind of scary to me because the type you have (shunt type) can short out from excess current. Do you have unfused alternator output running to under the dash? or do you have a fusible link in the wire?

Just to get it going, run the alternator wire to the BAT post on the solenoid.

Color of cables really doesn't matter, in fact my Pos cable is black but has a BIG red label on it saying Pos. The cable to starter was always black AFAIK, probably so all the grease and oil doesn't show...

Really need a sketch to understand the rest of your wiring. Do you have a scanner?

 

I have a diagram and I am working on posting it. Turns out I suck at new technology also. We have it hooked up now to charge the battery but it sounds like you have a better and safer way. Wont be driving the truck for now anyway. Please don't give up on this thread 'cause I know that I haven't. Thanks

 

don't know how this diagram will turn out. Probably the best I can do.

 

I can't read what that is at top left? Overall looks good, and the way you show wiring at the ammeter, it will show what you want. You don't show any circuit breakers or fusible links, here's a simple diagram that mostly agrees with yours but show some of those. VERY important to include them! The way this diagram shows the alternator connecting is not as good as connecting at the ammeter, as far as showing what you want to see, but my concerns about the ammeter's capacity remain. A lot of people replace the ammeter with a simple voltmeter, they are more reliable and no big current flows thru them. (they are wired up differently)

 

ALBUQ F-1....Sorry for the diagram. I am not committed to my style of ammeter if you can recommend a different style or brand. Currently nothing has a fusible link but when I settle on a wiring scheme I will wire them in. My gauge is reading +30 and I am used to other gauges that read closer to the + or - O. If you are more proficient with diagrams and scanners perhaps you could allow me to just copy your wiring. Thanks, Matt

 

Ok Thanks, I know what direction I am going finally. Based on what you said I will go with fusible links and a volt meter. THANKS A MILLION, Matt

 

I'm here so I'll put in my two cents. I am also a fan of voltmeters instead of ammeters. Voltmeters aren't in-line, which means fewer heavy wires under the dash. And in my opinion they give better information about the electrical system.

A good battery should read about 12.6v with the engine off and no accessory load. About 12v with the low beams on but engine off. Between 13v - 14.5v with the engine on. If it drops below about 13, it's not charging. Above about 14.5 and the generator or alternator has problems!