Ok so after attempting to get engine code I finally got some. They are 118,121,114,334,522. If anyone can help that would be awesome thanks.

1992 flareside 4.9l 5 speed zf 42 trans 4x4 211,xxx miles.

 

Dtc 118 and 121 and 334 are the codes to look at. when you pulled the codes was the engine up to temperature. does the truck run bad or have any performance issues. 118 deals with the engine coolant temperature sensor for the computer 121 deals with throttle position sensor and 334 deals with egr voltage. is the engine in your truck original to it and same with computer controls. have you or any one else done any tune up work and changed out any parts.

 

Here you go:

118: ECT sensor is/was high or open – ECT
121: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor out of Self-Test range
114: Air Charge Temperature (ACT) Sensor out of Self-Test range
334: EVP voltage above closed limit
522: Vehicle not in PARK or NEUTRAL (operator error)

 

No it wasn't.because I don't like to start it due to its loading up bad and running like poo. Yes it idles high and running rich and I got into ll of this because it kept shutting off while I was driving it. Before I could pull my codes with my scan tool but now I cannot.i pulled the, with the test light grounded and it connected to the pin. I just replaced the computer,egr tube,coolant sensor,egr,cap plugs wires and this is my third dizzy. Yes it is original. I may be forgetting some parts.

Thanks for the reply

 

Thank you for the reply

 

did you reset the keep alive memory after replacing those parts. were those parts actually bad or not. Did you rotate the engine at all with the distributor out

 

[QUOTE=carguy94;14278233]did you reset the keep alive memory after replacing those parts. were those parts actually bad or not. Did you rotate the engine at all with the distributor

Yes I unhooked the battery for about an hour.the dizzy the pick up was bad and since it would die on me I was told to replace the computer my a local mechanic. Which it did run good for a while only to die again. What do you mean? And about the parts yes those were bad.

 

Reason i ask about part replacement is because i wanted to get an idea as to weather those parts were bad just out of long use or because something that should not be happening is doing or was it just an attempt to tune up or try to fix the issue. with egr position get a voltage reading off of the evp sensor with the valve connected and disconnected try disconnecting the egr and see what happens. did you replace the gauge sender or the sending unit for the engine computer. does the engine fire on all cylinders. not to make for long posts but have you done anything to your TPS.

 

Well they were all original parts t hat failed from long use.well the egr hasn't worked since I purchased the truck. The egr tube had a ton of holes in it so that's why I replaced them together.. Ok I will try to disconnect it. I replaced the one upfront with two wires that goes into the neck. Nope I haven't touched my tips at all.from what I know it's all original.

 

The EGR not working should not cause your idle issues but will throw a code it could be the egr passage is plugged or the valve never opens or stays closed for what ever reason. Since you do have a TPS code you should check your tps voltage at the sensor signal engine off and be sure it is giving a signal and has what it needs to report. If the engine is running rich and has a high idle try to see if you can make that idle come down. with the high idle and the fact you think it is running rich could mean the engine is adding fuel or just has to much fuel or a number of things. Do you have a vacuum gauge. And by the way the egr should not have vacuum at idle if the engine is actually idling. how does the engine respond when you give gas in gear is that when it would konk out.

 

Yes that I know. Yeah it's a brand new egr like I said.ok I will have to check it and get back to yo.what should the voltage be? So I forgot to mention yesterday I replaced my iac because when I would start it up it went to 1500 rpm and come down to 1,000 rpm.but when the gas was pressed it would shoot up to 2,000 and stay. So I replaced it with a used one I had on hand and it does the same thing but its only 1500 rpm now and I can't get it come come down at all. I also had a new map sensor and when I installed it my truck is running very rich. But with the old one installed its not ruining as rich.

No I don't have a vacuum gauge. Ok thanks. its fine when you give it gas normal response no miss or nothing like that.

I just want to fix my truck so I can drive it. I believe my computer is bad because I cannot get any code from it with my scan tool before I could get the, fine but since all these problems came up my scan tool is useless.

Thanks again for you're help

 

you should have a 5 volt reference at the tps and the voltage on the ground should be in milvolts little to no mv or so on the ground volt meter lead battery negative key on engine off you should see about 1 volt or a little bit less on the signal wire of the tps throttle plate closed voltage should increase as you crack the butterfly. if for some reason you find reference voltage off or over what it should be that could indicate trouble with the EEC. The reason your truck may have ran good for that period of time with the new computer may be because the loss of any type of sensor input was enough to make the computer over ride that signal and run on a fixed value for a period of time until what ever happened got worse or it was just enough to change engine control. what is the deal with your scan tool does it say no communication does it show no codes and what type of codes are you trying to read with the scan tool just stored dtc. is it a ford star tester or what is it. you pulled the codes with a jumper wire and no short or any type of code was shown that would indicate eec malfunction. have you set the idle at all on the truck. was your map sensor a junk yard unit for the time being i would but the old one back on. does your truck still have converters on it. never mind on the map sensor.

 

Ok checked the voltage and it is 5 volts and the voltage on the ground was measured in mil volts. Ok I see what you're saying. It says no communication was made with the computer.i tried to read koeo and koer and same thing no communication. But about two days ago I could read the codes no problem but now I cannot.i have 12 volts going to the test port on the truck. No I haven't set it at all. Never touched it. No it was a brand new napa map sensor.(the better one they sell) yes it does I put a brand new flow master on last year.

 

Oh and I forgot to mention when I got in my truck yesterday it smelled like burnt wires under the dash near the computer. I will pull the computer and see if it smells. I have a two year warranty on it so I can get it replaced for free if that's the case.

Also I had it running for about two mins today and I only pulled 3 codes warmed up they are 121,334,522. So I don't know what happened with the other two codes.

 

code 118 and code 114 are probably because the engine was cold. that's good to keep in mind so you do not melt the cat converters down. Do you have any blown fuses any other issues related to electrical. Did you measure the signal wire voltage looks like you verified the EEC side of the issue at least for the TPS you need to see what the signal voltage is as that could be what you need to solve your issue. If you have a warranty on the computer and i do not usually go for parts changing but i guess it would not hurt but if this is truly the second bad engine computer and it smells like burnt wires then is sound like the issue may be else were. Aside from checking power and ground all day to confirm an engine computer issue you could check the reference voltage at any other sensor that uses the five volt reference. If you find any burnt wires find out what they do before you do anything so you can be sure you have the issue in the bag. One last thing 522 was the trani in neutral. be sure the TPS voltage goes up and down when your open the throttle and be sure you are back probing the tps. what was your reading exact on the ground wire.