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I am planning on doing this (removing the cat) in a few months. Is it really that big of a difference?
I'll be hollowing out my front cat and replacing the 50-state legal rear cat with a 49 state legal on. I thought I'd gain some but will it be that significant?
Ya the increase in performance is significant enough, there is a slight hesitation when excelleraing from idle bet it's VERY slight and doesn't do it all the time. The most significant change was the sound.
If you mean plugging the air injection tubes, don't bother. Just ditch the smog pump and plumbing altogether.
What if you can't ditch the smog pump. I'm deleting my cat, but plan to put on in 2 years from now when smog is due again. Can I just let the air injection tube hang out or does it need to be capped, or what do I do with it since I'm not removing the smog pump? The egr will go on the new headers, and the other air injection tube that goes on the headers is already on. SO I just need to figure out what to do with the tube that used to go on the cat.
What if you can't ditch the smog pump. I'm deleting my cat, but plan to put on in 2 years from now when smog is due again. Can I just let the air injection tube hang out or does it need to be capped, or what do I do with it since I'm not removing the smog pump? The egr will go on the new headers, and the other air injection tube that goes on the headers is already on. SO I just need to figure out what to do with the tube that used to go on the cat.
It's only used for the cat (to help it burn pollutants by adding oxygen). If you aren't using it for the cat, just vent it to outside air. No harm, no foul. The air going into and coming out of the pump isn't monitored by a sensor or metered in any way. It's a complete stand alone unit when the cat is removed.
Update. Removed cat, replaced front tank with new tank and sending unit and it runs fine albeit with a little backfiring. My gauge for the front tank isn't working still. I'm wondering what the next move is pertaining to the deleted cat. Do I need to adjust timing to stop the backfiring or will resetting the computer do it.
The cat isn't there so it's just headers and I have to take it in to get the cat gutted and welded back in. I don't think straight pipe is going to do it in NC. I'm wondering if I should adjust the timing or if it's because the pipe was cut, also I replaced the front tank so bad gas was running through the engine. Once the gas from the brand new tank is run through the backfiring I hope isn't a problem anymore. The gauge for the front tank also isn't working.
Once I removed the cat on my 460 89 ford f250 it runs but bogs down once I push the gas pedal. I need to gut the cat and drive it to a shop to have the cat welded back on. Is there something I need to do to make it run fairly smooth so I can get it to the shop? The two pipes on top of the cat that I cut out, do they need to be capped with something for it to run smoothly enough for me to get there?
Those two lines are the inlet and outlet from your air pump..........that plumbing does run through an Air Control Valve in the intake and its associated vacuum tubes and/or check valves may be causing the problem
Taking out the cats on any year shouldn't cause trouble. 96+ you'll get the computer bitchin bout it but just pull the bulb and ignore the cat code whenever you scan it. Unless you're getting a tune as well, then just ask your programmer to disable the cat monitor.
Those two lines are the inlet and outlet from your air pump..........that plumbing does run through an Air Control Valve in the intake and its associated vacuum tubes and/or check valves may be causing the problem
Dixie any comment on this statement? My buddy is asking me about removing his. I told him he could probably just let the tubes hang or take out the smog plumbing all together. I didn't think it would matter since he doesn't need exhaust testing and it's a 92