I am trying to figure out what to replace my fuel pump with. I have an electric 12V system that is having problems. The existing consists of a small pump mounted on the fire wall and an in-line filter between that and the Holley Carb. I guess my questions are:

1. What pump would you recommend?
2. Do I need a pressure regulator?
3. Where should I mount it? There is nowhere that isn't either in the engine compartment or above the exhaust.

 

Since most electric fuel pumps are much better pushers than pullers, most manufacturers recommend installation as close as possible to the gas tank. The pump you need is determined by the pressure requirement of the carb and Speedway, Jegs and Summit carry several good ones. Pressure regulators are used to match the pump output with the carb's requirement. Not always necessary but I always use one to ensure the pump doesn't overpower the carb. The pump you have may work OK if mounted closer to the tank. I also use 2 filters - one on each side of the pump. My .02 - Ken

 

1. Airtex E8016S - low pressure pump
2. Yes, you want a regulator, Holley 12-804 1 to 4 psi, set at 2 psi
3. I mounted mine about midway along the driver's door, inside the frame rail. If I were doing it over, I'd put the regulator there too. I made a shield to prevent a leak from spraying on the exhaust, heat was not a problem even in 100 deg weather.

 

If you are going with an electric pump don't forget the fuel safety cutoff switch. You don't want to continue spraying fuel all over the place if you have an accident.

http://www.honestcharley.com/late-model-muscle/fuel-pump-cutoff-safety-switch.html

 

Where do you attach this device? I've never noticed a spot on the flathead to screw something like this in.

Thanks
John

 

Tee into the oil pressure sender.

 

I understand the reasons for using those pressure switches, but don't use one myself. For one thing, one of the primary reasons people go electric is to prime the carb after a long sit. With the switch, you can't do that without a bypass switch. Second, on a carb'd vehicle, there are plenty of scenarios where you are in an accident that doesn't damage the engine, and a carb bowl holds enough fuel to run (idle) for a couple minutes, so the pump is likely to keep running even if it's pumping on the ground. The other thing is, on two vehicles I used the switches on, the switches leaked from Day One, and both failed, naturally in the "off" position.

There are impact switches that will shut it down if you take a hit, but they apparently only sense an impact in one direction (like head on).

I don't think there is a fool-proof design out there...

 

Ross, the contacts on most of these fuel pressure cutoff switches close (turn on) when the oil pressure reaches only 5 psi which I believe can be developed in a normal engine at starter speed. This should then deliver fuel to the engine immediately. Most accident scenarios that are serious enough to compromise the integrity of the fuel delivery system will shut off the engine. If you have an accident and the system is not leaking and the engine is still running then the fuel system regulates the fuel flow like it normally does.

I believe that the newer inertia cut off switches sense vibration in more than just one direction. This is particularly important in the new direct injection vehicles where the fuel pressure is so high (2,200 psi). Before buying one I would want to know that info for the switch that you are buying.

All decisions in life are a gamble. IMHO having a safety device that shuts off the electric fuel pump is worth the risk.

 

mustang inertia switch on mine.

if you get hit, it shuts off the pump instantly if it experiences more than ~ 10 x g. Wires in line with the fuel pump positive wire. Has a reset button. Pretty nice. Use one on my roadster too.

 

Just out of curiosity what is your reason for putting the regulator under the cab? When I read the regulator docs they suggest close to the carb.

Thanks,
John

 

I discovered while doing some tuning in the garage that when the diaphragm on the regulator fails (leaks), fuel sprays out of a weep hole on the lid. You can rotate the lid on the Holley reg to face two ways, either towards the mounting surface or away from it. Mine is mounted on the inner fender, and as originally installed it sprayed right onto the engine. I changed that, but if I had it to do over, I'd mount far from the engine. For the flow rates our engines have, there are no issues with a more remote location, as long as the lines are clean and free-flowing. I know of one guy with the regulator mounted over the rear axle on an old Ford car, he has logged thousands of miles without issue.

 

I used to use the Airtex units like Albug F1 but they kept failing. Mounted by tank on both vehicles. Maybe they just did not like Oklahoma weather???? I carried spares in both vehicles. Anyway, I switched both to Carter 4070 units and never had another issue. Do not use Mr Gasket regulators. Had one come apart.

 

Just a quick question. Are the holes on the pressure regulator that hold it to its bracket supposed to be threaded? I've got the bracket and screws but no threaded holes. Just seems weird and difficult to install