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differential oil change

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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 09:23 AM
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differential oil change

Guys,

Help me out! I have a 1997 f 250 2wd, 7.3l, automatic truck. I just found out the pinion seal was leaking. Gonna put a new one in and go ahead and change the diff oil. It has a c9 for the axle code. What I need to know is what weight of oil and if it takes the friction modifier?

Thanks,
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 09:29 AM
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The C9 code is for a 3.55 limited slip so you will need the friction modifier. I use the old 80w90 gear lube.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 09:38 AM
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As an alternative you could try and run full synthetic 75W90 or 140 in the LS rear end. You might try it without the friction modifier first since quite a few guys have had good results with the synthetic oil and no modifier. If you haul heavy or tow a lot then I would recommend staying with a 140 weight oil, but if it sees a lot of empty use then the thinner 90 weight will likely be just fine.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 09:43 AM
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I pull a 7,000 pound travel trailer. So I'm gonna need what's best to protect those bearings and ring gear
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 10:35 AM
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I would use a standard 75W140 oil then and plan on using the LS additive.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 02:44 PM
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I think you will have pretty bad luck getting the torque back correct on that pinion nut, I just winged it the time I did just that seal and ended up shelling a pinion bearing and had to re do everything. all bearings. PITA so now if I have to do it ill do it right.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 1994F2507.3L
I think you will have pretty bad luck getting the torque back correct on that pinion nut, I just winged it the time I did just that seal and ended up shelling a pinion bearing and had to re do everything. all bearings. PITA so now if I have to do it ill do it right.
Plan on having a professional do it
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:05 PM
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You can do it yourself if you got the tools, and patients. I rebuilt my 94 rear end after having the problem I mentioned, the complete kit is something like 290$ at Napa. You need a good in lbs torque wrench and a long LONG 3/4 breaker bar and a good dial indicator in addition to the standard mechanics tool set.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 10:25 PM
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when you reinstall the nut only tighten it by hand.evey pinon seal job I have seen fail later was over torqued.EVERY one.NO IMPACT!!! blue loctite.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 10:55 PM
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I'm a believer in the little bottle of stinky stuff (friction modifier) from Ford. It just plain works!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 06:02 AM
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your supposed to tighten it down to create a specific amount of rolling resistance (what the in lb torque wrench is for) but to do that you have to get it pretty dang tight (what the 3/4 breaker bar is for) i had all the specs from when i built my 94 but i don't have them saved on this computer i know ALLDATA or Mitchell has the specs.

when we did it i had a 3/4 torque wrench turned all the way up (it was the longest bar we had) to tighten that nut tight enough to get the correct resistance. we never did get it so tight the 3/4 torque wrench clicked though. ya tighten it a bit then pull it off and use the in lb torque wrench to measure the resistance and if its not tight enough go some more, just go in little increments though because if you go to tight you have to get a new nut and start over, they're only supposed to be one time use.
 
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