OEM Gauges Engine Swap
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OEM Gauges Engine Swap
Okay so here is what I'm trying to do
1969 250 I6 in a 1996 Ranger with the 2.3L EFI
Transmission is NV4500 from a 93 GM C2500
What I've been researching is when I put this engine and transmission in, what will I have to do to keep my stock gauge cluster working?
I have an oil, water temp, voltage, fuel, speedo and tach gauge in the truck.
Can I just swap the stock senders from the 2.3L to the 250?
Do I need to keep my computer or do the gauges read direct from the senders?
The tach and speedo is probably going to be a bugger. I read some where that the tach from a 4 cyl won't read correctly with a 6 cyl. And I don't know if I can use the VSS or what ever sensor GM uses on their transmission for the speedo.
Any ways, I have a ways to go before I have to worry with the wiring, but I like to research and come at a problem from every angle prior to getting my self in a bind.
I looked and search but didn't really see anything that would answer my question.
Thanks for your time and knowledge on this.
1969 250 I6 in a 1996 Ranger with the 2.3L EFI
Transmission is NV4500 from a 93 GM C2500
What I've been researching is when I put this engine and transmission in, what will I have to do to keep my stock gauge cluster working?
I have an oil, water temp, voltage, fuel, speedo and tach gauge in the truck.
Can I just swap the stock senders from the 2.3L to the 250?
Do I need to keep my computer or do the gauges read direct from the senders?
The tach and speedo is probably going to be a bugger. I read some where that the tach from a 4 cyl won't read correctly with a 6 cyl. And I don't know if I can use the VSS or what ever sensor GM uses on their transmission for the speedo.
Any ways, I have a ways to go before I have to worry with the wiring, but I like to research and come at a problem from every angle prior to getting my self in a bind.
I looked and search but didn't really see anything that would answer my question.
Thanks for your time and knowledge on this.
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From: Virginia
You need better diagrams than I have access to, but I believe you are going to be ok, I think they still used separate sensors for the gauges in 96.
The speedo may be a problem. You need to find out where they had the speed sensor installed on the Rangers. I know it was in the rearend on the bigger trucks. If it's in the rearend on the Ranger, you may be ok. If it's in the tranny tailshaft that you are taking out, you may be able to find a solution in the hot rod circles and sites. I believe you may be able to find a signal generator that will plug in to the old gear driven speedo connection on the older swap in tranny, and that will have wires coming out of it that will give a speed sensor signal to the speedo.
I am not sure about the tach. What I am wondering is how you are going to get that LONG six cylinder engine in the little engine bay of the ranger.
The speedo may be a problem. You need to find out where they had the speed sensor installed on the Rangers. I know it was in the rearend on the bigger trucks. If it's in the rearend on the Ranger, you may be ok. If it's in the tranny tailshaft that you are taking out, you may be able to find a solution in the hot rod circles and sites. I believe you may be able to find a signal generator that will plug in to the old gear driven speedo connection on the older swap in tranny, and that will have wires coming out of it that will give a speed sensor signal to the speedo.
I am not sure about the tach. What I am wondering is how you are going to get that LONG six cylinder engine in the little engine bay of the ranger.
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I think I have a sensor in my M5OD-R1 for the speedo and a sensor in the rear end. But I think the sensor in the transmission is what talks to the speedo. I put 4.56's in the rear and now my speedo is off by about 15 mph is the reason I think that. Good to know on the other gauges tho. Might have to pull a gauge cluster from a V6 Exploder or Ranger to get the tach to work, which I can live with. I an trying to keep from destroying the truck by hacking and whacking, just in case I do decide to go back with the 2.3L it will be just plug and play. Might hit the junk yard and see if I can find the correct wiring harness and cut and splice it, unplug my original harness and keep.
It's gonna be snug but not impossible, 30 1/2 from bellhousing to water pump snout and 33 1/2 from fire wall to rad. core. 3/4 to 1" between fire wall and valve cover and 1 1/2" between fan and rad. Like a glove
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