My ranger has a 3.0 v6 engine it idles high and accelerates on its own sometimes. Sometimes its more often then others. I turn my key about three times thinkin its reseting the computer and stop it and it does. But I keep hitting a dead end and don't know what to do about it.

 

Welcome to FTE.

I see you don't have any replies, so I'll see if I can get things started.

The engine computer uses the IAC to control idle speed. It gets dirty inside over time, sticks & often acts out, so belongs on your idle woes suspect list.

If the IAC is functioning ok, the engine idle speed will drop, or the engine may stall when the IAC electrical connector is disconnected.

Next time it acts out, if disconnecting the IAC electrical connector doesn't cause idle speed to drop, try thumping it & see if it'll wake up & close & begin getting a grip on idle speed. If that works, its likely dirty inside with deposits, so you might remove it & tidy it up inside with a plastic safe spray detergent like CRC MAF, or QD spray cleaners, while keeping the little black filter cap & electrical connector end facing up, so the solvent & any crud it loosens up won't run in & cause other mischief. Cleaning may not last & is probably why Ford recommends replacement when they act out & cleaning didn't last for me, but was a good trouble shooting step before replacing my 99 4.0L IAC. If you replace it, don't use Dorman. I used BWC & its been fine for years now. Motorcraft is good but expensive.

Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Ok, I tried disconnecting the IAC connector and the idling did lower so Im assuming it works. It also makes a ticking noise as I accelerate. Also, the small tubing that connects to the top of the MAF sensor seems to be dry rotted, its a green tube but, theres also a red that snapped off as if it were dry rotted and its located directly over the engine. Not sure if any of this has to do with it. The red tubing was disconnected from the tubing connected to some pump looking thing it caused my defroster to not turn off and my air and heat to only come out lof my defroster but I connected the red tubing to the tubing that came out of the pump looking thing and my air and heat work fine.

 

OK, sounds like the IAC is functional, but from the description of the lines that are dryrotted & disconnected, sounds like you have a really bad vacuum leak. Get the hoses/tubing put right & reconnected. The in cabin Heater/AC controls are vacuum operated, so if they're acting out, sounds like some of the loose vacuum lines go to the vacuum manafold distribution center on the firewall, where the in cabin heater/ac control panel gets its vacuum feed. If the vacuum leak is so bad that the computer can't compensate for it, the air/fuel ratio can become so lean that you can get spark knock on a pull.

If its that bad, you should have a CEL lit & if so, run this puppy by your favorite autoparts store for a no cost computer trouble code scan & post up All code Numbers, as you may have more than one problem & those codes could provide good trouble shooting clues.

 

Now I have a charcoal canister according to the parts store employee. It is disconnected but, i dont know if that has do to with anything. It acts up in the mornins but sounds fine when its at operating temperature. I still havent connected the hoses yet but it lacks power when I drive or when im goin up a hill.

 

Yes, all the dryrotted, broken, disconnected tubing & charcoal canister are likely having an effect on the vehicles driveability, so concentrate on getting them put right.

Seeing as it seems you were in an autoparts store, did you have them scan the engine controller/computer, for pending or set trouble codes???? If so, post up All code Numbers found, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

 

P1443
P0401
P0301
P0304
P0306
P1074
P0171
These are the codes some are cylinder misfires but I changed the wires out but not spark ifs cause my friends said I got the wrong ones the ones that are in it are platinums and the ones I bought were iridium. Does it matter? The part store gave them to me.

 

Iridium plugs are fine do long as they meet the OE specs. What brand did you use? There are only a couple brands that will work properly. As for the wires, the requirements there are very strict. Use only Motorcraft or Magnacore. All others are likely to cause all sorts of issues.

 

The spark plugs are Bosch and the the wires were started with the name spark I forget the reat but it's neither of those

 

That's your problem there. Bosch is garbage. Your wires are part of the problem too.

 

I just now noticed my purge valve isn't even connected to anything! What is this causing?