I have a 2002 Ranger 3.0 standard trans. In extremely warm weather my truck will quit when I slow down or come to a stop sign. The RPMs go below 500 when this occurs, but the truck starts right up when I turn engine on to restart. I have been advised that maybe it is some sort of heat sensor. Any help would be appreciated. PS during the cooler months it doesn't happen.
Thanks
Bill

 

Have the engine computer scanned for trouble codes & post All code Numbers, as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.

Did the idle speed problem come about suddenly after some event????

The IAC (Idle Air Control) located at the throttle body end of the intake air tube, is responsible for maintaining idle speed. When gummed/carboned up, is a common problem part in idle woes, so it belongs on your suspect list if you don't have any trouble code clues.

If you come to suspect it, you might try removing & cleaning it internally with a plastic safe spray cleaner, like CRC MAF, or QD cleaners, keeping the electrical connector end & little black cap facing up, so the cleaning solvent & gunk it removes doesn't run in & cause other mischief. Cleaning might not last, it didn't for me but was a good throuble shooting step before I replaced mine. Let us know how your trouble shoot goes.

 

Dirty air cleaner, dirty idle air control valve or a dirty map sensor. Those are easily the first things to check

 

I pulled the IAC abd cleaned it with some CRC electrical cleaner. I will not know if it helps until the weather warms in Bullhead City, Az. If the engine continues to die I will replace the IAC Valve. As I stated before It has been runninging great this winter. Thanks for the replies and tips. I appreciate using this site.

Bill

 

If cleaning the IAC doesn't help, before throwing a new IAC at the problem, have the vehicles engine computer scanned for trouble codes, even if the CEL isn't lit there could be "pending" trouble code clues stored, then post up All trouble code Numbers.

You could have a vacuum leak causing the stall & something like a sticking open PCV valve comes to mind. As its down stream of & not monitored by the MAF sensor, if it sticks open at idle, it could cause a lean mixture that the IAC or computer might not be able to compensate for. Same for a leaking EGR EVR/vacuum switching vlave, as if its leaking vacuum to the EGR diaphragm at idle, so the EGR valve could be opening a little & feeding just enough exhaust to the engine to cause idle mischief. At idle we aren't to have Any EGR feedback. So you'd want to do some more trouble shooting, like test for vacuum at the EGR diaphragm vacuum line, or replace the PCV valve if it has over 200K miles on it, or has never been replaced, or do some other testing, get a positive result, then replace the problem part. Resist getting so frustrated that you begin to throw parts at the problem in hopes of getting lucky.

If you come to decide to replaced the IAC, consider opting for Motorcraft, or BWD, as most folks have had the best service with them. More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on how your warm idle trouble shoot goes.