rag joint
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 350
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento, CA
rag joint
Got an aftermarket rag joint/coupler from DC and tried to change it out today. I'm missing something. I couldn't get the steering shaft to move and make enough room to change the thing out. Half way considered removing the steering box but thought I'd ask here first. What needs to happen to loosen up the steering shaft?
I got frustrated and decided to remove my girlfriend's transmission from her Jeep to blow off some stream. But by the time I was done with that, it was dark and I didn't get back to my truck. It's a bit frustrating to think I can replace a transmission on a modern (over engineered) car but can't seem to wrap my head around getting the steering shaft loosened.
Any help? Step by step?
Hillbillybuddha
I got frustrated and decided to remove my girlfriend's transmission from her Jeep to blow off some stream. But by the time I was done with that, it was dark and I didn't get back to my truck. It's a bit frustrating to think I can replace a transmission on a modern (over engineered) car but can't seem to wrap my head around getting the steering shaft loosened.
Any help? Step by step?
Hillbillybuddha
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Got an aftermarket rag joint/coupler from DC and tried to change it out today. I'm missing something. I couldn't get the steering shaft to move and make enough room to change the thing out. Half way considered removing the steering box but thought I'd ask here first. What needs to happen to loosen up the steering shaft?
3A525 complete assembly in pic.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 350
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento, CA
Last 6 in the VIN 844,517
I'm guessing that my issue is where it runs through the firewall. If I have to remove the bracket/plate on either side of the firewall, how do I remove the thick matting on the inside of the cab along the firewall? Mine seems to be a decent condition and I'd rather not destroy it.
I'm guessing that my issue is where it runs through the firewall. If I have to remove the bracket/plate on either side of the firewall, how do I remove the thick matting on the inside of the cab along the firewall? Mine seems to be a decent condition and I'd rather not destroy it.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
C5TZ-3A525-A .. Steering Coupler (rag joint)-Larger pin is .41" O.D. / Obsolete
1965 F100/250 2WD / 1966 F100/250 2WD before serial number 900,001.
POECS PARTS in Erie PA has 1 = 888-864-9305.
STERNBERG FORD in Dale IN has 1 = 812-937-4241.
FRIESEN FORD in Aurora NE has 1 = 402-694-3111.
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 2 = 972-937-2201.
KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has 2 = 800-816-2894.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 45 = 800-543-4959.
1965 F100/250 2WD / 1966 F100/250 2WD before serial number 900,001.
POECS PARTS in Erie PA has 1 = 888-864-9305.
STERNBERG FORD in Dale IN has 1 = 812-937-4241.
FRIESEN FORD in Aurora NE has 1 = 402-694-3111.
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 2 = 972-937-2201.
KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has 2 = 800-816-2894.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 45 = 800-543-4959.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 350
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento, CA
Oh. Maybe I wasn't clear. Sorry. I already have the rag joint/steering coupler. I'm trying to change it now. I can't remove the steering column enough to get the old one out our the new one in.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
Here's a picture of mine out of my 65 f100 not sure if they are the same or not but I remember loosening the bolt on the part that attaches to the steering box to give me enough room to get it in, my bearings might have been shot (I've since replaced the whole thing with power steering and another column) but my entire steering wheel would pull back a bit. I remember I struggled with it, can't remember the exact fix but didn't have to do anything to the column.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=84904
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=84904
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 350
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From: Sacramento, CA
Yeah. That looks exactly like mine. I guess I'll remove the steering box.
Actually, I just thought of this right now. I've got a donor truck I can pull it off there first to see how is done. I have everything to switch over to power steering but the steering has never bothered me (except the jiggle from the worn rag joint or while trying to park in a small lot) and I've worried that the box would get in the way of my headers. So switching over to power steering hasn't been that high of priority for me.
Actually, I just thought of this right now. I've got a donor truck I can pull it off there first to see how is done. I have everything to switch over to power steering but the steering has never bothered me (except the jiggle from the worn rag joint or while trying to park in a small lot) and I've worried that the box would get in the way of my headers. So switching over to power steering hasn't been that high of priority for me.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Hillbilly, Do both it at the same time. You can drop the column at the dash cuff and at the firewall to move it. You are going to have to replace the column with your power steering swap so why do it twice?
John
John
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 350
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento, CA
I think you're right John. I'm going to put it back together now cause I need my truck tomorrow and do the conversion next week when I don't need the truck.
It's there a good thread or how to article on the conversion that I can read up on before I dig into it?
It's there a good thread or how to article on the conversion that I can read up on before I dig into it?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
A nutta thing, there is a factory horn ground that passes through there. You may want to be proactive and add one while in the process. Go back and look at the image link again, the rag has 4 connector points, separated sides, place a about 3" wire under the bolt head from each side to complete the ground. My horn went from not or barely blowing to working properly again when I added one.
John
John
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