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ok now to all of you that gave me advice on how and what to do, she is up and running. new intake manifold gaskets, did a thorough flush of all intake ports and all vacuum ports on the throttle body, running smooth again. zero steam coming from the exhaust. and no code. thank you all for everything. oh and by the way, I now have the firing order memorized lol even though I didn't need it. haha. in closing, ran rough, didn't know why, let it set for a few weeks then tried to start it, she hydrolocked on me, I pulled off the intake manifold and found a blown intake manifold gasket. replaced and put back together. and runs great again.
ok now to all of you that gave me advice on how and what to do, she is up and running. new intake manifold gaskets, did a thorough flush of all intake ports and all vacuum ports on the throttle body, running smooth again. zero steam coming from the exhaust. and no code. thank you all for everything. oh and by the way, I now have the firing order memorized lol even though I didn't need it. haha. in closing, ran rough, didn't know why, let it set for a few weeks then tried to start it, she hydrolocked on me, I pulled off the intake manifold and found a blown intake manifold gasket. replaced and put back together. and runs great again.
Hey glad to hear about your acheivement. I too have just replaced my img and I have been following this thread all along (great stuff). I only had two issues. I had to replace the imrc bushings with cheap ones from oreillys, 2of them broke right out of the bag, I now know why ford wanted to charge 8.00$ a piece. I also snapped one of the fuel rail bolts in the plenum, quick fix. My truck runs alot tighter too. I also want to thank everyone that posted their insight.
Hey glad to hear about your acheivement. I too have just replaced my img and I have been following this thread all along (great stuff). I only had two issues. I had to replace the imrc bushings with cheap ones from oreillys, 2of them broke right out of the bag, I now know why ford wanted to charge 8.00$ a piece. I also snapped one of the fuel rail bolts in the plenum, quick fix. My truck runs alot tighter too. I also want to thank everyone that posted their insight.
you are so very welcome. that's why I posted here, perhaps someone can learn how its done. I guess I just got really lucky that nothing else happened and nothing else had to be fixed or replaced. I do still have some other issues that need to be fixed but not on the urgent list as of yet. like the lash adjusters. I have one or two that are ticking, but not serious.
Driver side 5-8 pass side 1-4 . 2 timing chains stacked one behind the other . both drive off the crank . Front cover is flat . looks can trick you .
Originally Posted by JWC 3
Look at the left side front of head in relation to the right side front of head . Draw a straight line between the two . The Cam sensor tells the computer where that bank is in reference to the crank sensor ... on the other side .
Hi I don't mean to butt in to your conversation .I just wanted to say on the 97 Ford f-150 4.6 that it is true the #1 cylinder is front passenger side and that maybe the confusion came from the fact that the coil and plug wire for the #1 cylinder is on the front driver's side of the motor.. great conversation I have the same problem but I have decided to go with the blue devil and have done enough research and weighed the cost and work involved and feel confident the blue devil sealer is the best option for me but thank you all for the information you provided .
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