Cab swap?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Fort Rucker, AL
Cab swap?
So I've been brainstorming for a future endeavor on the ole 56 and was considering my options for the drip drail thats rusted alllllll the way around. The majority of the cab is decent (not including the floorboards), even the corners, but the drip rail is pretty much non-existent. I obviously don't want to lose the beauty of the 56, so I'm not too keen on just slapping a 53-55 cab on but what do you guys think would be the best route to tackle fixing the issue? Trying to find another 56 cab and swapping (mine's a custom cab 250, not sure if that makes a difference) or should I attempt to get rid of the drip rail all together, orrrrr my least favorite option, take a roof skin off a donor and and attempt to replace it all together. Thanks in advance and hope everybody is having a good week!
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,886
Likes: 8,355
From: northwestern Ontario
I'm facing the same problem with rust through on my 56 pickup cab. I'll be cutting mine out in sections and repairing it. I had a small section I had to repair on my panel, wasn't to difficult to repair.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Fort Rucker, AL
You're going to tackle the drip rail in sections? I was considering cutting sections out and more or less eliminating the drip rail by rolling over the edge in an attempt to give it a natural-looking curve? If that makes any sense at all lol
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,886
Likes: 8,355
From: northwestern Ontario
I like the looks and functionality of the drip rail and want to keep it. I've cleaned out most of the seam sealer and will drill out the spot welds then cut out sections and form new pieces to go back in with predrilled holes to plug weld back in the drip rail. The front sections will be the easiest to do, above the doors there is a little more to shape the metal. I plan to make the profile in a piece of solid oak use a piece of round stock to hammer it to the shape and piece it in. I just placed an order to replace the what's needed on the lower sections of the cab.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Fort Rucker, AL
I like the looks and functionality of the drip rail and want to keep it. I've cleaned out most of the seam sealer and will drill out the spot welds then cut out sections and form new pieces to go back in with predrilled holes to plug weld back in the drip rail. The front sections will be the easiest to do, above the doors there is a little more to shape the metal. I plan to make the profile in a piece of solid oak use a piece of round stock to hammer it to the shape and piece it in. I just placed an order to replace the what's needed on the lower sections of the cab.
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,886
Likes: 8,355
From: northwestern Ontario
The link to your photobucket is not working for me, would like to see just how much rust you are contending with. The roof skin is rotted through on mine but the actual drip rail from what I can see so far looks to be okay. I will know more once I start cutting into it. The picture you have in your signature of your truck looks much better than what I have.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
The Peddler
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
17
Aug 6, 2012 03:59 PM
78ford351m
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
13
Dec 3, 2007 08:51 PM
