Header to leafspring clamp clearance issue
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Header to leafspring clamp clearance issue
Hi all,
So, I need some advice on how best to proceed. I am working on my 75 F250 CC 4x4 and am having clearance issues with my headers (Hedman 89830).
On the passenger side, there is no clearance between the header and the leaf spring clamp.
I am not even sure if these are stock springs. They are 7 leaf so I am assuming this is a 6 leaf with an add-a-leaf just under the top spring when I compare to my stock 75 reg cab highboy:
One interesting observation which has me scratching my head is the location of the spring clamp. On my cc it is located much further down the spring pack. On the reg cab it is close to the shackle. If the cc was clamped like the reg cab I would have no issue
So they way I see it I can either try to "clearance" the header, or try to modify the spring clamp (type or location).
I am hesitant to clearance the header, but will do what is necessary.
So, any suggestions or opinions? Any other options I haven't thought of?
So, I need some advice on how best to proceed. I am working on my 75 F250 CC 4x4 and am having clearance issues with my headers (Hedman 89830).
On the passenger side, there is no clearance between the header and the leaf spring clamp.
I am not even sure if these are stock springs. They are 7 leaf so I am assuming this is a 6 leaf with an add-a-leaf just under the top spring when I compare to my stock 75 reg cab highboy:
One interesting observation which has me scratching my head is the location of the spring clamp. On my cc it is located much further down the spring pack. On the reg cab it is close to the shackle. If the cc was clamped like the reg cab I would have no issue
So they way I see it I can either try to "clearance" the header, or try to modify the spring clamp (type or location).
I am hesitant to clearance the header, but will do what is necessary.
So, any suggestions or opinions? Any other options I haven't thought of?
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Very interesting suggestion. Went out just now and measured compared to my unmolested reg cab and it has identical spacing. Also the fan is lining up perfectly in the shroud as well as the transmission to the crossmember.
Good idea though, didn't think of that before.
Good idea though, didn't think of that before.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Those hedman long tubes ' primaries look longer than ur other rig. I'd move the spring clampback for clearance and keep an eye on it . Alternatively, use a different type of leaf clamp - one that doesn't have the end plates... a style more like a band clamp.
Or, flip upside down. The clamp I mean.
Or, flip upside down. The clamp I mean.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,189
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Take the spring clamp off (grind the rivet?) and flip it over, that might get you more clearance? Or re-position it further down the spring pack, closer to the bottom leaf in your 2nd pic.
1st pic is a set of 4" Rough Country the wrap both the clamps. 2nd pic- do it like the rear spring clamp on this set of tired high boy 6 pack leafs? Heat, hammer bend and wrap it?
Looks like the collector and rear spring shackle hardware are real close also, what it is going to do come flex time?
Maybe get or make a different (just a little longer) set of shackles? I would think you could grind on the collector a bit? But remember to account for a little motor movement and suspension flex.
1st pic is a set of 4" Rough Country the wrap both the clamps. 2nd pic- do it like the rear spring clamp on this set of tired high boy 6 pack leafs? Heat, hammer bend and wrap it?
Looks like the collector and rear spring shackle hardware are real close also, what it is going to do come flex time?
Maybe get or make a different (just a little longer) set of shackles? I would think you could grind on the collector a bit? But remember to account for a little motor movement and suspension flex.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Likes: 5
Looks like the collector and rear spring shackle hardware are real close also, what it is going to do come flex time?
Maybe get or make a different (just a little longer) set of shackles? I would think you could grind on the collector a bit? But remember to account for a little motor movement and suspension flex.
I also have one other option which I was not really considering, but maybe I should. I have a set of uncoated Hooker headers (used for break-in) which have no issues with leaf spring clearance. The down side is that they will require a small notch to the frame (even Hooker installation instructions note this and provide a template) and sits very close to the starter which may require a mini-starter to have sufficient clearance.
But the starter is a bolt on, and the frame mod appears to be minor. I could always get the Hookers coated and sell the Hedmans instead of the other way around.
Nothing in this project seems straight forward lol.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,189
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Well grind the collector and mod the spring strap and x fingers.
Or pay more $ for coating of other ones, notch frame....fail on Hookers part IMO, pay $ for mini starter or remove header come starter change time?
I would run what you brung, and work over the collector and strap a bit. Before a total remove and replace after more $$ spent.
Hang in there with it.
Or pay more $ for coating of other ones, notch frame....fail on Hookers part IMO, pay $ for mini starter or remove header come starter change time?
I would run what you brung, and work over the collector and strap a bit. Before a total remove and replace after more $$ spent.
Hang in there with it.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Those hedman long tubes ' primaries look longer than ur other rig. I'd move the spring clampback for clearance and keep an eye on it . Alternatively, use a different type of leaf clamp - one that doesn't have the end plates... a style more like a band clamp.
Or, flip upside down. The clamp I mean.
Or, flip upside down. The clamp I mean.
Well grind the collector and mod the spring strap and x fingers.
Or pay more $ for coating of other ones, notch frame....fail on Hookers part IMO, pay $ for mini starter or remove header come starter change time?
I would run what you brung, and work over the collector and strap a bit. Before a total remove and replace after more $$ spent.
Hang in there with it.
Or pay more $ for coating of other ones, notch frame....fail on Hookers part IMO, pay $ for mini starter or remove header come starter change time?
I would run what you brung, and work over the collector and strap a bit. Before a total remove and replace after more $$ spent.
Hang in there with it.
Seems the option to modify or move the clamp seems to be the best.
Based on the inputs I've gotten from you all and my own thoughts on the matter I think I have narrowed it down to a few choices.
1) Move the clamp back like it is on my other rig.
2) Take out the bolt and bend the ends over similar to the front clamp.
3) And my new crazy idea that I had tonight - remove the bolt assembly and weld in a solid piece of round bar instead. It looks like I would have enough clearance without the bolt head and this option would just about retain the original clamps design. Thoughts? Any reason that this would be a bad idea?
The collector looks like it should be OK when viewed closer, maybe a tad grinding down if I still have clearance issues but should be doable. Also, will probably flip the bolt around so the nut goes on the outside.
Thanks for the help everyone so far
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Move the clamp, yes, but would not flip the spring bolt around. Makes for a PITA time to remove the bolt later on if you ever have to drop that spring, you will have to remove the header to get the bolt out......
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
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Looks as though you have room in the clamp to move it forward to be placed over the end of the leaf that is under where it is now and get the clearance needed. In plane words move the clamp forward toward the axel a few inches and flip the clamp over so the bolt is on the bottom of the spring. JMHO
Oldman570
Oldman570
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 229
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Keep in mind that the engine will rock when torqued. Perhaps a bad suggestion but what about heating up the header tubes and bending? Maybe run the motor to heat them? My L&L's got close to the front cab perches but I was able to grind those to get more clearance.
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