Damage to printed circuit
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Texas
Damage to printed circuit
What could have caused this damage? Overload of some kind? Just a random failure maybe? This goes to the Ammeter. I have since just pulled the pins for this gauge from the connector and ran wire directly to the back of the gauge and it works. Any thoughts?
The circuit going to the tachometer looks fine but the tach fuse keeps popping and I have not been able to figure out why. Any connection? Thanks again.
The circuit going to the tachometer looks fine but the tach fuse keeps popping and I have not been able to figure out why. Any connection? Thanks again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
That appears to be a corrosion-related failure. Once the copper begins to oxidize it gets thinner and thinner until it can no longer hold the load on that circuit. Effectively, what happens is the copper trace becomes a fuse and the load is eventually too much for it and it breaks.
With that in mind, make certain there is no corrosion between any two traces. It may only be copper oxide but it is still electrically conductive and will create a short circuit causing fuses to blow.
With that in mind, make certain there is no corrosion between any two traces. It may only be copper oxide but it is still electrically conductive and will create a short circuit causing fuses to blow.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Looks like corrosion - or heat related damage. Drawing too much current.
Wipe it down with a non-residue solvent. Lighter fluid works excellent. If you don't want to spring for a new one, you can try laying down a single strand of copper wire over the trace and flow solder over. Those boards don't look like they are holding up too well over the years.
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Wipe it down with a non-residue solvent. Lighter fluid works excellent. If you don't want to spring for a new one, you can try laying down a single strand of copper wire over the trace and flow solder over. Those boards don't look like they are holding up too well over the years.
Sent with smoke signals using IB AutoGroup
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
I would recommend staying away from lighter fluid or other flammable liquid if you plan on soldering to make repairs. Paste flux and flux-core solder will clean the metal without damaging the plastic substrate that the board is made of. (Do not inhale the smoke from melting flux any more than you would the fumes from lighter fluid).
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Nah, lighter fluid evaporates in seconds. I suppose it's POSSIBLE for somebody to get in trouble, if they really tried, but that's not news. The lighter fluid is what will remove the paste flux and rosin and all the other crap, too. Works great.
Sent with smoke signals using IB AutoGroup
Sent with smoke signals using IB AutoGroup
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Napa
Only if you soak it, I've used rubbing alcohol since the early 90's to clean up solder flux and other gunk that might end up on a pcb.
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Post Fiend
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Texas
Well my fix was to pull the wires/pins from the connector for each wire running to the ammeter and put a spade connector on each and ran a new wire to the two terminals on the back side of the gauge. It now works great.
I also seemed to fix my Tachometer problem. The fuse kept popping and I noticed the printed circuit for one of the grounds to the tach gauge was separating from the material. SO as I did before, I pulled the wire/pin from the electrical connector and ran a wire to the back side of the gauge. It may not look pretty when you pull the entire gauge cluster off but it gets the job done.
I am now aware, thanks to you guys, that this printed circuit is on its way out due to age and corrosion. Huge help!
I also seemed to fix my Tachometer problem. The fuse kept popping and I noticed the printed circuit for one of the grounds to the tach gauge was separating from the material. SO as I did before, I pulled the wire/pin from the electrical connector and ran a wire to the back side of the gauge. It may not look pretty when you pull the entire gauge cluster off but it gets the job done.
I am now aware, thanks to you guys, that this printed circuit is on its way out due to age and corrosion. Huge help!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Rubbing alcohol is not petroleum-based and is fine for the application.
Furthermore, don't take the advice, for all I care. I am speaking the truth. If you choose to ignore it, its your headache not mine. But when I see information posted that could cause further issues to the problems that the OP is trying to resolve than those posting responses are willing to admit, I am going to point it out. Petroleum-based products dissolve plastics or at the very least vitrify them if used repeatedly. If you folks wants to spend your time denying facts just to make your point, go right ahead but for as long as I have been around this forum, we have done our best to provide complete information to alleviate further potential issues. In doing so, we point out the pitfalls to "old habits" as well.
Furthermore, don't take the advice, for all I care. I am speaking the truth. If you choose to ignore it, its your headache not mine. But when I see information posted that could cause further issues to the problems that the OP is trying to resolve than those posting responses are willing to admit, I am going to point it out. Petroleum-based products dissolve plastics or at the very least vitrify them if used repeatedly. If you folks wants to spend your time denying facts just to make your point, go right ahead but for as long as I have been around this forum, we have done our best to provide complete information to alleviate further potential issues. In doing so, we point out the pitfalls to "old habits" as well.
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