Cruise Control
#1
Cruise Control
Ok replaced the front brakes, tie rod ends, and all ball joints today. Also flushed old brake fluid and replaced with new. Now my cruise control does not work. Light on the dash momentarily flashes when I try to set the speed. I have checked all the fuses and the connections and everything appears normal.
Any thoughts?
01 Ford F150 5.4L 4x4 off road pkg stock height and tire size.
Any thoughts?
01 Ford F150 5.4L 4x4 off road pkg stock height and tire size.
#2
Either the pressure switch is open or the plug is open.
Does the harness close to the pressure switch have the re-call mod placing a fuse in the line to the switch?
You could do the CC test from the steering wheel and see if any flash code appears.
If yes, what is the 2 digit count?
Good luck.
Does the harness close to the pressure switch have the re-call mod placing a fuse in the line to the switch?
You could do the CC test from the steering wheel and see if any flash code appears.
If yes, what is the 2 digit count?
Good luck.
#3
Yes to recall it was done in 2011. Both those fuses are in good shape also.
Im not sure I understand what you mean about CC test. When driving I attempt to engage the cruise and the green light that indicates your cruise is engaged flashes once very briefly as soon as you hit "set". If you were not paying attention or blinked you would miss the flash.
Please clarify, thanks for the help!
Im not sure I understand what you mean about CC test. When driving I attempt to engage the cruise and the green light that indicates your cruise is engaged flashes once very briefly as soon as you hit "set". If you were not paying attention or blinked you would miss the flash.
Please clarify, thanks for the help!
#4
There is a test to do right from the steering wheel while setting still.
It may provide the failure cause.
Did you test the master cylinder switch for continuity?
Is there 12 volts at the end of the connector?
It must have this or there is no power to the control unit.
To do the test hold the 'off' switch operated while you turn the ignition on.
The dash lamp will flash indication you entered the diagnostics.
Quickly operate the On WITHIN 5 SECONDS.
Then in succession the Resume, Coast, Set.
Look at the CC dash lamp for flash between each switch action.
At the end, the throttle should move.
If there is a fault detected the Lamp will flash a code.
Post any code you count.
Good luck.
It may provide the failure cause.
Did you test the master cylinder switch for continuity?
Is there 12 volts at the end of the connector?
It must have this or there is no power to the control unit.
To do the test hold the 'off' switch operated while you turn the ignition on.
The dash lamp will flash indication you entered the diagnostics.
Quickly operate the On WITHIN 5 SECONDS.
Then in succession the Resume, Coast, Set.
Look at the CC dash lamp for flash between each switch action.
At the end, the throttle should move.
If there is a fault detected the Lamp will flash a code.
Post any code you count.
Good luck.
#5
Ok 14.2 volts at the switch at the master cyl.
The CC lights up for the diag and it illuminates when I push "ON" "RES" and "Coast" the throttle moves and then nothing else flashes. It did not illuminate when I pushed "Set/Accel" during the steps.
I took it for another drive and now the light does not even flash when I try to engage the cruise. Im thinking a bad switch at the master cyl?
The CC lights up for the diag and it illuminates when I push "ON" "RES" and "Coast" the throttle moves and then nothing else flashes. It did not illuminate when I pushed "Set/Accel" during the steps.
I took it for another drive and now the light does not even flash when I try to engage the cruise. Im thinking a bad switch at the master cyl?
#6
If you replace the switch use a new updated Ford part.
Some after market switches are built to sensitive and will open under hot engine bay conditions in the summer time because the system pressure rises a small amount enough to operate the switch to an open circuit, then you have intermittent failure all over again..
The master cylinder and exposed lines are right over the exhaust manifold area.
Been there and experienced it.
Good luck.
Some after market switches are built to sensitive and will open under hot engine bay conditions in the summer time because the system pressure rises a small amount enough to operate the switch to an open circuit, then you have intermittent failure all over again..
The master cylinder and exposed lines are right over the exhaust manifold area.
Been there and experienced it.
Good luck.
#7
Thanks for the help, I have tested the circuit and even ran my volt meter into the cab and tried it while I drove down the road. It has to be the switch. Everything else shows it has power and should be working. Unless I am missing something, which is quite possible.
Any ideas what the switch is called, so I know what to ask for specifically?
Any ideas what the switch is called, so I know what to ask for specifically?
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