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Any of you guys had an issue with this code? It runs fine at idle then when it reaches normal operating temp it runs rough and acts like it is rich or a fouled plug. Also, the SES light blinks when under a load for extended time like climbing a grade. Any help would be welcomed. Thanks.
Where would you start? O2 sensor/COP bad plugs? Only happens when warm and under a load as far as the SES blinking. Running rough even at idle when warm. Not on initial startup. Acts like it is running rich but I don't see any black smoke from the tailpipe.
You need to have a scan tool hooked up and then go drive up a hill. The scan tool should be able to give you a code (P0301-P0308) for which cylinder is misfiring. The last digit of the code is the misfiring cylinder.
Any of you guys had an issue with this code? It runs fine at idle then when it reaches normal operating temp it runs rough and acts like it is rich or a fouled plug. Also, the SES light blinks when under a load for extended time like climbing a grade. Any help would be welcomed. Thanks.
You might want to check your owners manual. When the SES light blinks it is warning you that you are in danger of destroying you Cat by dumping raw fuel into it.
Assuming that you are saying that the ONLY code you have is the P1131, the PCM has recognized that the forward (fuel control) O2 sensor on bank one is not switching between rich and lean. This can be caused by any number of things, from a bad O2 sensor, to its wiring harness, or a corroded connector. Additionally, if there is excess fuel pressure causing this, look at the fuel pressure regulator for an internal leak, or look for an upstream exhaust leak. (An exhaust leak will allow oxygen to be sucked into the exhaust flow between engine pulses - the O2 sensor sees this unused oxygen and the PCM compensates by adding MORE fuel.) You have to get your Sherlock Holmes magnifying glass out and figure out what is causing the PCM to report the P1131.
Replaced the Bank 1 upstream and Bank 2 downstream O2 sensors today. Cleared the codes. rough at idle and throughout the rpm range. During test drive it posted P304 Misfire. COP? Any tricks to geting back to #4?
SilverSS, thanks for the encourament. Would it be best to remove the fuel rail. That's what I am straying away from. Just don't want to screw it up. I guess if I get back in there I might as well go for the plug change!
I don't know if you have to move the rail to get to #4- I had already moved it to get to #3. It's easy to remove if you do. Bleed the fuel system or it will spray some fuel out. 2 bolts hold the rail down then just pull up a little just enough to get it out of the way. You're *supposed* to replace the injector O-rings. I bought some spare ones just in case. O ring comes right of with a pick. Lube it with motor oil before putting it on. After putting it together have someone turn the key on for a few seconds then off 2 or 3 times to make sure it's not leaking around the injectors. Make sure you have something to lay on- I used a moving pad.
No need to move the fuel rail. You can manipulate the COP because of the long rubber boot. Use zip ties to pull the heater hoses out of the way, disconnect the vacuum lines off the side of the intake, and I think you'll get more room if you move the PCV line.
Oh ya. That good old PVC line. Actually had the good fortune of replacing that already. How did the Ford engineers manage to make everything insight but untouchable? The Bank 1 upstream O2 Sensor was a prime example. #4 COP looks the same.
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