Oh Good Point

I just had 12 volts on my mind

 

The charger gurus desighn theirs to deliver the bulk of charge at the begaining then wind up with less than 1 amp. Same with alternators,just not as precise and some stop and start alltogeather at a few amps.

Now that I've thought on it a little more,I'm not so sure. Considering jeans and tees kids wear in the name of lastest fashion,I just might start shaking some kid's hand , howdy howdying calling him Benny and saying how young he looks for such a sage feller.
My granddad would say it looks like the wildcats have been ahold of the seat of their pants.

 

That 16 volt charger might work, you'll have to measure it under load. It's only 16 volts across the terminals, right? That's the unloaded voltage output, see what it does when charging.

Too, Remember a "12 volt" battery won't charge up if given 12 volts, it takes about 2 volts above the OCV to charge up a given battery, in this case about 12.7 or close to it. So about 14.7 is what you want to see when it's charged up at 80F. Measure it while charging over time, adjusting for temperature on the chart. When it's Zero out it will need to be higher than that, etc. Let us know what you find.

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Ya I may try it but I will keep looking for a 14 volt one for now

If I had a 14volt one I wouldn't have to worrey about Overcharge Right in theory I could leave it connected forever Right??

Or should I watch that type charger closer then that?? Guess I should be checking the Acid/Water Leval Occasionaly

I don't care if I fry the Battery I just want to pull it from the Car First

 

You'd have to measure under load. Not really sure. A "14 volt" charger might end up topping out at 12.3 or whatever, and that wouldn't work? A float charge (permanent) value is debatable, but somewhere between 13.2 and 13.8 is the generally accepted figure for auto batteries.

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Well That's the accepted voltage for Alternator Output to consider its doing its Job

That's what you Mean Right^^^^^

And the Battery is considered fulley charged at 12.68volts or close

your probably right I could get away with a 16volt charger SO FAR I only found an 18 volt one

 

No, 13.2 or thereabouts is considered the float charge voltage for auto type batteries at 80F For battery tenders and the like. There's barely any current involved. This is a permanent charge voltage, thought to be high enough to maintain a battery from self-discharging, but not boiling electrolyte and drying out. The thing to remember it's temperature dependent. And it takes 2 volts above and beyond whatever your open circuit voltage is going to be, before it starts reaching full charge. Watch a charger and battery with a voltmeter and compare it with the charts, it starts to make sense.

If it's Zero degrees F, an alternator will have to stuff 15 volts or better in there to charge a 12 volt battery. The tenders work great at maintaining a fully charged, healthy battery.

What's neat about battery tech (and a big downside too!) is that the chemistry has been figured out 100 years ago and hasn't really changed. It's all on a chart and laid out what works and such. The typical battery charger is just about perfect for a big car battery in winter. Start charging at high rate, then switch to low rate.

Stationary lead-acid deep cycles can last 20 years if taken care of. Hot weather just roasts car batteries, vibration, undercharging, etc and winter finishes them off, though.

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One thing that I would like is a wet cell NiCad system.
The charging and maintenance is quite a bit different
and in genreal a paon in the ***. How ever the output
is crazy. A wet cell NiCad can dump a lot of current
very fast. One reason you don't have any metal on when
you work on a set. You also have to use care to not drop
any metal tools. They tend to turn red and melt fast.

Sean