PulseTech Xtreme Charger Auto 100X010 XC100-P - Walmart.com
O check out pulse tech web site too

 

Thanks Guys those look to be Great chargers

Man I looked thru walmarts and didn't come across that one Moe must of been the way I was Searching for it

Marks claim to recover Deeply Desulfated battery that's what I need

I am hoping to get my little work car back on the road and Park the 6.0L basically so I want to get a Maintainer/Desulfater I can keep on it

 

Terminals should be OK they are Side mounts that screw in only I have messed with it Plus it has continuity and had some pretty good bubbles coming out the cells

What do you do with that stuff rusty totally Drain the Battery and Start over??

I was thinking about trying to Pop off the Battery top and Clean the Plates so that might work sweet if I could get New Acid in them to

do they sell that stuff at the Autoparts stores??

 

yes .
(parts stores sell battery acid)

 

I didn't know that I have never Looked for it

Man if I could just revive this Battery for 2-3 months I could afford another new Battery

So Mark when you get the Noco Maintainer/Desulfater do you Hook the Positive to one Battery and the Negative to the Other Battery to get Good EVEN Maintence/Desulfation Across BOTH Batteries??

I Mean I know you could just hook it to one and the Cables are Hooked up to Both but IMO that kinda leaves the Farthest Battery on its own to a Point as it measures the Voltage across the single battery it would get that battery its Hooked up to at the Sweet Spot but the other Battery would just kinda get the Leftover Scraps

 

The Reason I mention that is cause on my truck that last set of batteries I replaced the Passengerside Battery Positive Terminal was Bad I assumed it got Cooked as ALL that Power Passed that Point


Do you guys know what is the Closest Battery or which battery the A Circuit/Battery Sense to the Alternator comes from??

 

Don't hook the batteries that way to a 12 volt charger because that is a 24 volt arrangement. Just connect the charger to either battery and they will properly charge.
I hope you have sucess reviving the old battery but I'm afraid it's a lost cause if you didn't see 12+ volts after charging. The desulfating is meant to be done routinly starting when a battery is new and more often as the battery ages. It's kinda like brushing and flossing teeth. If let go,there's no getting it back. Or maybe lifting weights or running to build muscle and stamina. A little every day is much better than a bunch after a month of couch potato life.
If a battery is getting old and has been neglected but will still charge,desulfating will improve and preserve it but not to the extent had it been desulfated during it's intire life.

 

NO your NOT Following Me

I Don't mean to hook it up in Series for 24 volts (To do 24 volts you would Connect a Negative post to a Positive Post that's not what I mean)

I Mean to just Hook it up in a Way that it has to go thru Both Batteries

SO for example When you Hook it up to ONE Battery it will charge Both sure BUT when it gets the Battery that the Charger is Hooked up to Charged 100% it will shut off Regardless of the Other Battery Condition

Hooking it up How I suggested Ensures that Both Batteries get Equally Charged/Maintained/Desulfated

When you Hook it up to a Single Battery it will charge the One its Hooked up to FASTER than the Other Battery DUE TO Less resistance across the Pos & Neg of the Battery the charger is Hooked up to

So Hooking it up this way Forces it to Charge and Condition the Batteries Equally

With Me?????


Yes Right with you Here!!!

I have been looking into these type Chargers/Maintainers/Desulfators more so for my Truck Since I Hope to park it and only drive on the weekends or Occasionally

Its Batteries are only 10-12 months Old IIRC so I would like to try and extend their Life. MY DC Power alternator 190 amp Does a Great job of keeping the batteries Fully charged if I drive it regular but letting it sit isn't so good

And regardless I would like to Occasionally do a Desulfate cycle on them to try and keep them in Tip Top condition

 

You are over thinking the relation between the dual batteries. The main reasons for 2 batteries instead of 1 are; A. Cost effecience,the battery can be used singular on other applications where less amps are needed B. One battery with suffecient amps would be so heavy it might strain a butt muscle holding it at arms leinth while installing/removing from tray.
The only place where the combined power of both batteries is carried is postive cable from the driver's side postive post to starter. No where dos combined power of both pass between terminal and post.
The red alternator wire is connected to passenger postive terminal bolt.

 

Hey you Know me WELL LOL!!


Since the Batteries are Hooked together with a Cable Everything gets the Combined power or really Amps of Both batteries

Since its wired IN PARALLEL it maintains 12 volts but the Amps Double

 

Actually,under normal conditions you are correct about not being 24 volts. The possibility of trouble would occur if good contnuty is lost or open circuit some place while connected like that. While it is true that some resistance through the postive cable can be overcome,it is so miniscul that it doesn't matter. The cable is overkill for the amps we are dealing with so volt drop isn't measurable. As long as batteries are identical,charging is delivered to both at same rate. If one battery has a weak cell or otherwise imbalanced,things go out the window.
Yep,haveing a minder hooked up while truck is parked is a great idea.

 

[quote
Since the Batteries are Hooked together with a Cable Everything gets the Combined power or really Amps of Both batteries

Since its wired IN PARALLEL it maintains 12 volts but the Amps Double[/quote]

Let us look at it like this. Say the starter pulls 200 amps,100 flows from passerger side to driver's via postive cable. At the driver's postive,the driver's battery delivers 100 amps to the junction where passenger cable and driver's cable join. from that juncture to starter,200 amps flow through a single cable. Both negitives are connected to engine,frame and body by neg bat cables and bonding straps/wires.
12 volts potential is present 24/7 save but while starter is energized,there might be small fluxations at various points. Think about starting a vehicle while headlamps are on and how they dim.
BTW,I only offer this info to prompt you to research. The beauty of electric is that it behaves in a predictable fashion which makes trouble shooting straightfoward if one understands the behavior. If only the same could be said for mankind,make that womenkind.

 

Yes the resistance makes it so they don't charge equally

So I thought moving the ground to other battery would help alleviate that some

But thinking about it maybe the ground need to go to the engine so the circuit is wired more like the Alternator charging circuit

But hooked Direct to one battery that's a Small Circuit for first battery

but the Other battery is a Long Circuit by the time it makes a Loop thru the pos cable then Battery then out the ground cable thru engine thru other neg battery cable the charger is Hooked to

Nit Pickey aren't I LOL

 

Right I know what you mean about power being Drawn

 

"Nit Pickey aren't I LOL"

Maybe,but there is a way to see if your reservations about it are valid. Once you get your hands on a maintainer,hook it to either one of the batteries. It will display when the battery is fully charged. Emediatly disconnect the cables of battery to which charger was on. Move charger to other battery and see if it is still less than fully charged. ( The 85% indicator on my Tenders will light up for about 2 minutes before storage/float/maintain light aluminates eventhough a battery is fully charged.)

Rather than continueing to lecture,here is somting you might actualy be able to use from time to time. Testing quility of connection while circuit is hot,(something you can't do with an ohm meter.) Lets say the engine seems to turn slow indicating low battery,defective battery,poor cable connection,bad starter or other problem. Turn on head lamps then test for voltage between each of 4 post and their respective cable clamps. Any voltage whatsoever indicates resistance between post and clamp requiring cleaning and tightening. If you have no power at all on your little car(seldom happens with dual batteries),as you know that can mean dead battery or bad cable connection. A cable that has lost contact will read 12 volts on above test. For a resistive connection that only clicks starter,you may have to set meter to 6 volts or less in order to detect voltage. This works for switches,relays and buss bars as well. Very quick and desisive once you get the hang of it. A much quicker method used by shade tree tinkers is beat on it with a heavy wrench until it makes contact.