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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 09:26 PM
  #1  
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This lift

I'm looking to raise up the stance of my '79 F250. Currently it is at stock height and the 33x13.50's are a little crammed in there. I also just like the look of a little stance.

My question is I've never bought a lift and never put one in. I've been looking at the 4" Skyjacker kit, with blocks and U-bolts, plus the Nitro shocks. Am I on the right track? Is there anyone with user experience with this lift and shock combo? Maybe some pictures?

Would I want to go with a single stabilizer?

This is the kit: Skyjacker 1977½-79 Ford F-250 Lowboy 4WD Suspension Lift Kits

And this is my truck:







 
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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Skyjacker is my favorite lift company. They ride decent, (but stiffer than stock) and don't wear as fast as Superlift does. Rancho has the stiffest ride of them all.

A 4" lift will do just what you want it to do. No need for anything higher. The lifts are pretty straight forward. Springs, shocks and brake hoses. The front shaft doesn't have to be lengthened, but the rear shaft may have to be depending on how much you off road it.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 10:48 PM
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Welcome to FTE and nice truck. I had pretty much the same truck 77 F250 stock w/33's. And it was a little close on the front end clearance, so all I did was install a add-a leaf on the front end. 80 bucks and a few hours and done. See the 1st pic, that is it.

Alan is right on suggesting the Skyjacker 4", very easy lift to install. You will have more work, but a better stance and alot more clearance in the fenderwell.

You will get in that kit.
2 new complete replacement front leaf springs
1 sets of front u bolts
1 set of rear blocks
1 set of rear u bolts

I just put a different brand 4" lift kit on my blue 78 w/35's (2nd pic) and you will need in addition to the lift shown in the link a few more items shown at the bottom of the the individual kit shown, but the parts are listed right there.

You will need (2) longer front and (1) longer rear brake lines
Drop pitman arm for 4" lift
Adjustable steering link

On the brake lines you can get steel braided replacements $$ or get any GOOD local shop to make you some longer rubber ones. Make sure they do that kind of work in the 1st place.

Only basic tools are needed and a rentable tool place (some auto parts stores rent tools) for the "tie rod fork" for the pitman arm and you will be in business.

The biggest part of this if having a solid place to work. Meaning a concrete floor, cause you have to jack up the truck, drop the front axle far enough away to be able to remove and replace the front springs. Then jack the axle back up into place. All with having the truck safely supported.

And pretty much the same for the rear, but just far enough to remove the rear block and replace them with the taller ones.

The issue is IMO is stability, doing it safely in a gravel driveway is sketchy, but it has been done before. I have seen complete railroad ties stacked under a truck just aft of the front leaf spring rear bolt on point.

Metal jack stands are a better call, cement blocks are NOT. And I would enlist the help of at least one good pair of helping hands, if not 2. That should give you enough info to get the decision making process going. Lots of folks on here with a ton of suggestions and help.

Also have you joined your local state FTE chapter, might request some help from them folks too.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:57 AM
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Earthquake and '77,

Thank you for your replies, much appreciated.

I think I am on the right track with the 4" Skyjacker kit, with Nitro shocks included. '77, thanks for the details about the install. I do have a friend with a proper garage and all the tools, so I will be doing the lift there. It'll cost me some but better than doing it on my sloping, gravel driveway.
One question, you mention needing the longer brake hoses (2 up front, 1 in the rear), but I do not see where to order the correct ones. Also the same for the drop pitman arm and the adjustable steering link. Am I just not seeing the button to order these items or did you see them on that site in another place?

Again, thanks for offering the tips and advice. Will the 33's suddenly look too small raising the truck 4"? I don't think new tires are in the budget at the moment unfortunately.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 09:27 AM
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I found these rear brake lines: F250/F350 1976-1979 Ford w/ 4-6 inch Lift 4WD - Rear Brake Lines | Jack-It, The Suspension Experts

And these front brake lines: Skyjacker FBL93 Skyjacker Front Brake Lines - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

And this drop pitman arm: F250 1977-1979 Ford w/ 2-6 inch Lift - Drop Pitman Arm | Jack-It, The Suspension Experts

And the adjustable drag link: F250/F350 1977-1979 Ford w/ 3-6 inch Lift - Adjustable Drag Link | Jack-It, The Suspension Experts

Running some quick numbers from what I have looked at I've come up with this:

4" Skyjacker lift kit with Nitro shocks, dual steering stabilizer kit: $922
Rear braided brake lines: $70
Front braided brake lines: $105
Drop Pitman Arm: $120
Adjustable drag link: $185

So doing some quick math I'm coming up with a number around $1,450 with getting everything here. Does this sound about right? Are these all the parts and pieces I'll need to get the lift in and operating smoothly?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 12:32 PM
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That sounds about right. With a 4" lift the rear driveshaft will be stretched pretty far. The lift blocks are angled to adjust your pinion angle, so you don't have to worry about that. If you try to twist this up off road, you could end up pulling the slip yoke apart, but for normal street driving and moderate trail rides, you should be ok.

Here's 33's with 3" of lift. (the front is still half ton suspension, but the rear is 3/4 ton stuff.) It'll sit about the same as a stock high boy when you're done. 33's will look fine. ...so will 35's if you decide to step up in the future.



The suspension on my truck is "stock", but I added a 3" body lift. Lots of people will tell you this is no good, but I've run them for decades without a single issue. As long as you install everything properly and maintain it all, you won't have issues with what ever you do. Once a year, I go around and "nut and bolt" my truck. ...that is, I go through everything and make sure all the bolts are tight. An afternoon with a torque wrench will find and prevent LOTS of problems.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 01:05 PM
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Yes IMO after the 4" lift is on the 33's will look small and 35" will look better. I put 6" Skyjacker (kit/system) included new rear leaf springs on this one and have 35" for rollers and 38's are the plan.

As long as the brake lines are DOT approved.... I get all 3 of mine from Summit and the adjustable steering link and lines were cheaper than Skyjacker on both items.

Good deal you have a concrete shop floor and a helping hand. It is quite a task by yourself, how would I know that, I put the 6" on all by myself.

A ratchet strap is your friend when is comes to getting the spring in there to get the bolts in. After all done do a shake down run and then re-torque all your u bolts again and then in 50/100 mile ck. Things will shake into a position and losesen up after a while.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 01:16 PM
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And here is a 78 F250 with a 4" and 35". It does have overloads and extra rear block for when I have a heavy goose neck on it, so it does not bottom out.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 02:24 AM
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lifting can be addicting..... first its 33's then 35's then 38's 40's and next thing you know your trying to put 49.5's on it........
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 07:24 AM
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Yes is does, and even 57"s will fit. Ask this guy, he is a fellow FTE'er, earthquake1968.
 
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