I don't see mechanics in other cities having this return problem. I don't hear people on the boards saying how they studded their head and it blew again and again. There is a guy in every city who specializes in 6.0 head gasket repairs, they don't all seem to have this problem.

Maybe the big dog isn't torquing his heads correctly?

 

When customers won't stop towing with hot tunes its not an uncommon problem. Studs can only help so much. You get to a certain amount of cylinder pressure and the gaskets will blow even with the extra clamping force.

 

Bill is all about money. Yours into his pocket.
That is really all he is about. IMHO


Sean



Happy New Year

 

I love reading all the grammatical errors on these posts knocking this guy Bill. Yet these are the same ****** that most likey don't have jobs, scratching their junk through their tight whiteys while trying to type out a thoughtless comment.

Look I don't know about this guy but he obviously knows more than you, granted the 6.0s are junk and not worth saving but the guy has built a reputable business that includes major companies with multiple trucks in his clientele. Everyones an expert here so please, update your profile on your vast education on these engines. And provide us with your street cred by all means. Stop being a ****ing wash woman saying **** like "oh my friend knows somebody that says he's full of ****" or " I looked through the Internet and read this" right cause you believe everything on the Internet too. You are the dirt bag my tax dollars are going to so that you can shop at the Walmart Supercenter.

Bottom line, if you don't have first hand experience shut your mouth woman. Makes me sick knowing you have a ford, how did you afford it? Oh yeah you didnt..Thank God for Obama!

 

I try to be a reputable member on here,, and I have PERSONALLY MET AND SAT DOWN ACROSS THE TABLE with many members on here. Who the heck are you??? I have my opinion of the person you are defending,, it was formed when he shot a video and he put new ford gold coolant in a truck,,, then proceeded to put the coolant additive in. Do you have a freakin clue what you are talking about??? Because if you do,,, then you should know what is wrong with that. If you don't know what's wrong with him doing that,,, then you and him need to RTFM!!! Do you know what that means??? We are a close knit group here that helps each other out,, and we are here to help anyone that is willing to ask for help. But when some jackass comes on here and starts talking about stuff that the said jackass knows nothing about,, then we are quick to pounce.

You talk a bunch of smack,,, and you can try and talk it about me. But good freakin luck. Just because a guy shoots a bunch of highly edited videos,, doesn't mean he doesn't (or does) have a freakin clue what actually works. I have a vast array of videos also,, and I don't have time to do all that freakin editing,, because I'm busy live streaming actual customer repairs and occasionally taking quick videos to detail issues and tricks.

I guarantee he just recently figured out what I've known for a while,,, a quality head needs surfaced. I've got videos of heads actually being cut,, in real time. Heck,, I even took a reman Ford head straight from the dealer and videoed it being cut,,, do you know how far out of spec they are straight outta the box???? If not,, then shut ur mouth.

I did notice he talked about his investment,,, are these heads actually from him?? Where are they from?? Geographically??? Did he get the SG80A?? Maybe the F-65 or better?? His investment he talked about,, sounds like he did. But if so,,, I think he would say he does them "in house".

Here's a quick vid to watch while scratching ur junk with ur tidy whites on. Lol


How about another



The surface has been a major issue. The seats and guides are as well. But seats n guides don't blow hg's. I've never seen a head that didn't take at least .003 to straighten out. Including the remans. All the jazz he talks is just up selling. But that is what business is about. I personally am on the fence about the bronze guides. I'm thinking about trying them on one of my trucks to see how they hold up. However,, an issue not really talked about is the cracks in seats. If there is a crack,, and the seat is machined out for an insert,,, and the ENTIRE crack is not removed,,, the risk is there for the crack to continue to spread and the seat could end up dropping,,, then you just bought the engine. Just a lil thought.

I own 3 6.0's also. And your crack about the 6.0's are junk,,, wtf are you driving???? I've got videos of my truck on here. Lets see what your **** talking azz rides in!!!!! You just hit a lil nerve with me. But not a big enough one to eat my lunch. Lol. We all know your type,,, and I guess there's enough air in the atmosphere to let you suck your fair share. Pollution is everywhere huh. Lol

 

LOL! Is this Bill himself? Care to explain how any of your comments there make any sense? People who make grammatical errors likely don't have jobs? Do you realize your own post is full of grammatical errors?

LOL! A reputable business? How come whenever anybody asks about this guy everybody rolls their eyes and says "oh that guy again". Some reputation he has.

As for these "major companies with multiple trucks in his clientele", how would you know that? Usually "major companies" just look for the guy who will do it for the least money...

 

I like the Bronze valve guides and any machine shop should be able to accommodate putting them in.

 

Edit: I'm out!

 

I worked in a machine shop years ago and we had a kit to install bronze guide liners. They can be installed very quickly with hand tools on the bench with no set-up. Once it's determined the guide is ok (it could be a bit worn, don't remember the spec) you just drop a reamer through the guide with an air drill. The reamer has 3in long pilot to keep it aligned at the beginning of the process. Then, an air hammer with a special shaped bit would drive the liner home. A quick drop through it with a finish reamer and debur on each end and off to the next bench for valve/seat grinding. I forget who made the kit but we put those in every head we did. The liner was maybe .030-.040in thick bronze sleeve. It had a slit down it longways that closed up when driven into place. Never had a "comeback".

 

I did my heads long before it really was discussed on what was right or wrong, ARP was just introducing studs at that time and I got a revised set. Due to time constraints I would of had bronze guides installed and could have been able to give insight now. So far so good...

 

I was wondering if there is a need for them. Our costs are at a minimum of 700 per set to recon,, and 1200 will redo everything,, all guides, seats, new valves, springs ect. Just want to be able to justify the added cost to the customer. If they are $4-$5 each with $2-$3 to install,, we are at another $200 added to the cost. I'm ok with it if we can be sure it fixes an issue. I'm just on the fence about how long the SBI guides we install hold up compared to the stock integral guides. I have a bunch of the SBI guides running the streets,, sure hope I never need to see any of them again. But if I do,, I will shoot a video measuring the bore. The integral guides definately need an upgrade,, but can we be sure the bronze is needed above the SBI guides? It'd be nice of there were press in guides available with the bronze inserts already installed. I guess I can get a set on one of our trucks to beat up. Lol

 

It was a suggestion I ran past my machinist about what he thought but time was not on our side.

 

Admittedly, my knowledge is pretty stale, but back then many engine manufacturers where switching from an umbrella type valve seal to positive (PC) type seals. I assume for emission reasons. This allowed much less oil to the guides so galling and accelerated wear was more common on newer heads. Bronze was preferred because it's much more resistant to "sticking" to the valve stem. As you're aware, it's a preferred metal for bushing etc that run at high speed.

If 6.0 heads aren't prone to galling or excessive wear in the guides, I'd consider it an added unnecessary expense. If side loading and lack of lubrication is eating a good percentage of them, it may be a good option to offer.

Off topic a little but I prepped many 292 Chevy heads for the dirt track guys and along with several other mods, they wanted iorn guides (no bronze) with the top machined for PC seals- but with a notch cut in the Teflon part of the seal that rides on the valve stem. I never followed that logic but that's what they wanted.

After reading this page again: note to self- don't be a ***** bag.

 

One does have to wonder. Registered in 2008, with only 8 posts.

But I can't find any correlation

 

If it was Bill, all 8 posts would have been edited multiple times...