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Let me know when you make it in, 99FORD EXPY.; I'll be able to do some research once your dealership has diagnosed your truck. How many miles do you have on it?
Crystal
just over 70,000 with an extended warranty from that Ford Dealer , not the ESP program like they told me . that's a hole different issue .
just want to say thank you for your interest with the problem that I'm having.
i really do love this truck and want to keep it for many years but with only 30,000 miles left on the warranty i have about 1 year to decide its future.Very loyal to ford all of my vehicles ( 2 Bronco's 79 and 89 ,2 Expy;s 99 and 01 all have had very high mileage before parting with) funny thing my wife is the opposite 2 Explorer's 2 Escape's 1 Fusion I don't I have ever put new tires for her cars . Shes already looking at a new Mustang ...
Done rambling
just over 70,000 with an extended warranty from that Ford Dealer , not the ESP program like they told me . that's a hole different issue .
just want to say thank you for your interest with the problem that I'm having...
Sure thing, 99FORD EXPY., thanks for keeping us updated. I'll keep checking in to see how things go at your dealership.
Hey guys, new to the forum, but have been a visitor for quite some time. I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.7 PS and 6R140 and 3rd gear seems to exhibit the "shift flare" that folks are having issues with. Shifts fine from 1 - 2, and 2-3, but once it drops into 3rd it seems that it takes quite a bit of time to achieve lockup from what I can tell. 3rd gear feels like two gears..... once in 3rd gear the rpm's climb like in any other gear, but then it feels like it upshifts into 4th, but still shows 3rd on the dash leading me to believe that the upshift feeling is when it actually locks up. I have an edge CTS on my 7.3 that I can pull out and put in this truck to see if that is indeed what is going on, but wanted to get opinions here if changing the solenoids would be a good idea. Per the sticker on the door the manufacture date is 01/11 and the TSB indicates that the solenoids need not be replaced.
I guess that I should also add that it currently has the DPF and EGR delete and a custom calibration for the engine and transmission, but has had this 3rd gear issue prior to the custom calibration.
Stroker223 does the truck have a hard downshift from like 4th gear to 1st, usually when at first or second stop after initial start up? Like it's stuck in high gear. Once the transmission is warm it doesn't do it. If not then I don't think it's the same problem.
Stroker223 does the truck have a hard downshift from like 4th gear to 1st, usually when at first or second stop after initial start up? Like it's stuck in high gear. Once the transmission is warm it doesn't do it. If not then I don't think it's the same problem.
No, The only issue is the "shift flare" in 3rd gear. I do have a bit of an update though. Today while at the ford place for my wife's expedition I asked the service guy if there was a transmission guy there that I could speak with that I had a couple questions regarding the trans on my 2011 pickup. Just my luck as he just came back from lunch and met me in the service dept. I described to him in detail what it was doing in 3rd gear and he quickly said that what I was describing was "shift flare". He went into great detail on the shift strategy and solenoid functions, especially the normally high solenoids. He felt 95% confident that replacing the three normally high solenoids would solve my problem. I will order all of the required parts and do the work myself and report back...
Finally got the service set up for next Wednesday. I told the service guy about the shift flares. He was didn't say much. I'll just take that as it's old news to him. Then I told him the second problem about my truck just downshifting from 6 to 4 at 70mph and that woke him up! He said get it in and we'll look it over. So we shall see.
Finally got the service set up for next Wednesday. I told the service guy about the shift flares. He was didn't say much. I'll just take that as it's old news to him. Then I told him the second problem about my truck just downshifting from 6 to 4 at 70mph and that woke him up! He said get it in and we'll look it over. So we shall see.
I'll report back
Thanks for offering to keep us posted, Schlava; I'll keep an eye out to see how things went at your dealership.
So I got the truck back. My dealership was awesome again. They replaced all the shift solenoid's under warranty. I got the truck back and it's totally different. Before to me it seemed to downshift more than necessary which then made it really jerky when you'd get back on the gas. Now it holds the gear longer. Shifts are firmer. It just drives more like a normal vehicle. So hopefully non of the issues come back but after this being third time I've dealt with my dealer I have full confidence they will fix it.
So I got the truck back. My dealership was awesome again. They replaced all the shift solenoid's under warranty. I got the truck back and it's totally different. Before to me it seemed to downshift more than necessary which then made it really jerky when you'd get back on the gas. Now it holds the gear longer. Shifts are firmer. It just drives more like a normal vehicle. So hopefully non of the issues come back but after this being third time I've dealt with my dealer I have full confidence they will fix it.
Fantastic, Schlava; this is the kind of experience I love hearing about! Don't hesitate to let me know if you need any assistance in the future.
I had the same shift flares for atleast 20k miles because my local stealership wanted $650 to repair and said it could take a week because the parts could be hard to find.
So I researched and bought a disc on ebay that shows how to repair my 2011 f250 and is basically the repair book copied on dvd. This is the exploded solenoid picture.
So I had the day off and decided to just drain the atf fluid, remove the pan, remove the solenoid wiring harness, remove the solenoid retaining clip, and pull the solenoids myself and write down the numbers and call and find them or order them. Luckily a ford dealer about 30 min away had all 3 so I reinserted the solenoids and put back the retaining clip and harness. Bolted back the pan, and poured back the same fluid. (Didn't have another vehicle). Then went and picked them up came back home and went back through the steps and swapped out the solenoids and this time I put in new atf fluid Valvoline MaxLife D (any mercon lv will work) 10 qts. But I have and egr and dpf deleted truck so I used my sct 3015x to retune the transmission and engine when I was done so no need to reflash by ford. So far I haven't had any flares but it has only been 2 days. Usually it flares every single morning with a harsh downshift jerk after about a minute at my first stop. If you have this issue you know what I'm talking about.
The solenoids that need replacing are in the 5th, 7th, and 10th position. When you pull them look for the number on the side and write it down. Do not mix them up. Then buy the solenoids needed matching to the numbers below. You need the large number to the right.
Solenoid Band Number Normally High Solenoid Part Number
1 BC3Z-7G383-J
2 BC3Z-7G383-K
3 BC3Z-7G383-L
4 BC3Z-7G383-M
5 BC3Z-7G383-N
Mine were :
5th position had a number 4 so it was 7G383 - M and cost $88.90.
7th position had a number 5 so it was 7G383 - N and cost $40.86.
10th position had a number 3 so it was 7G383 - L and cost $40.86.
If you are thinking of doing this. DO IT! It was so easy and took about an hour and a half. I have read that if you buy the exact same numbered solenoids you do not need the reflash. I also heard that if you are "deleted" you must return to stock then do the work, have ford reflash, then return to deleted. Not true. If the tuner tunes the transmission then there is no need to have ford flash because you are completely rewritting the transmission. In total the solenoids were $180 plus about $50 for the atf fluid.
Solenoid diagram
Jenksie13-first off thanks for the post. I dropped my pan today and looked at my 5-7-10 positions. You stated yours were numbered 4-5-3 accordingly. When I looked at mine they were numbered 5-5-3. Does this matter? Should I order those or the ones you ordered? Any help from anyone will be appreciated. Happy Thanksgiving!
Well I finally had time and still no fix for my issues , I have all the latest updates for my truck , service tech was great .. At my local dealer . That said his hands are tied because they can't get the trans to act up for them . I was told that they can't just start replacing parts if everything passes the testing that they do physical and PC wise , witch I understand . So it looks like I will have to do the high solenoids my self even though I have an extended warranty from the dealer were I purchased the truck .
So I have had an intermittent issue with shift flares(2-3; delayed shift into gear from park; 1-2) for about the last 15-20K miles. Because of the intermittent nature of the problem and not being able to really predict when it is likely to occur I have not pursued the fix. The dealer I have spoken with needs to reproduce the concern. They also want something like a $200 "diagnostic fee" until they reproduce the concern and assess that it is covered under warranty, not crazy about that. It would seem almost easier to buy the solenoids and perform the replacement myself.
So I have had an intermittent issue with shift flares(2-3; delayed shift into gear from park; 1-2) for about the last 15-20K miles. Because of the intermittent nature of the problem and not being able to really predict when it is likely to occur I have not pursued the fix. The dealer I have spoken with needs to reproduce the concern. They also want something like a $200 "diagnostic fee" until they reproduce the concern and assess that it is covered under warranty, not crazy about that. It would seem almost easier to buy the solenoids and perform the replacement myself.
Maybe try a different dealer. That one sounds greedy.
Did I'd anyone else ever complete this solenoid change themselves? I have the flare happening horribly from 3-4 and my truck falls into the TSB date. I can do it myself because I have an H&S tuner with tranny tuning but I wanted to verify that no one saw any effects afterwards without having Ford go in and input the solenoid numbers. Thanks for the help!
Originally Posted by Jenksie13
I had the same shift flares for atleast 20k miles because my local stealership wanted $650 to repair and said it could take a week because the parts could be hard to find.
So I researched and bought a disc on ebay that shows how to repair my 2011 f250 and is basically the repair book copied on dvd. This is the exploded solenoid picture.
So I had the day off and decided to just drain the atf fluid, remove the pan, remove the solenoid wiring harness, remove the solenoid retaining clip, and pull the solenoids myself and write down the numbers and call and find them or order them. Luckily a ford dealer about 30 min away had all 3 so I reinserted the solenoids and put back the retaining clip and harness. Bolted back the pan, and poured back the same fluid. (Didn't have another vehicle). Then went and picked them up came back home and went back through the steps and swapped out the solenoids and this time I put in new atf fluid Valvoline MaxLife D (any mercon lv will work) 10 qts. But I have and egr and dpf deleted truck so I used my sct 3015x to retune the transmission and engine when I was done so no need to reflash by ford. So far I haven't had any flares but it has only been 2 days. Usually it flares every single morning with a harsh downshift jerk after about a minute at my first stop. If you have this issue you know what I'm talking about.
The solenoids that need replacing are in the 5th, 7th, and 10th position. When you pull them look for the number on the side and write it down. Do not mix them up. Then buy the solenoids needed matching to the numbers below. You need the large number to the right.
Solenoid Band Number Normally High Solenoid Part Number
1 BC3Z-7G383-J
2 BC3Z-7G383-K
3 BC3Z-7G383-L
4 BC3Z-7G383-M
5 BC3Z-7G383-N
Mine were :
5th position had a number 4 so it was 7G383 - M and cost $88.90.
7th position had a number 5 so it was 7G383 - N and cost $40.86.
10th position had a number 3 so it was 7G383 - L and cost $40.86.
If you are thinking of doing this. DO IT! It was so easy and took about an hour and a half. I have read that if you buy the exact same numbered solenoids you do not need the reflash. I also heard that if you are "deleted" you must return to stock then do the work, have ford reflash, then return to deleted. Not true. If the tuner tunes the transmission then there is no need to have ford flash because you are completely rewritting the transmission. In total the solenoids were $180 plus about $50 for the atf fluid.
I had the same shift flares for atleast 20k miles because my local stealership wanted $650 to repair and said it could take a week because the parts could be hard to find.
So I researched and bought a disc on ebay that shows how to repair my 2011 f250 and is basically the repair book copied on dvd. This is the exploded solenoid picture.
So I had the day off and decided to just drain the atf fluid, remove the pan, remove the solenoid wiring harness, remove the solenoid retaining clip, and pull the solenoids myself and write down the numbers and call and find them or order them. Luckily a ford dealer about 30 min away had all 3 so I reinserted the solenoids and put back the retaining clip and harness. Bolted back the pan, and poured back the same fluid. (Didn't have another vehicle). Then went and picked them up came back home and went back through the steps and swapped out the solenoids and this time I put in new atf fluid Valvoline MaxLife D (any mercon lv will work) 10 qts. But I have and egr and dpf deleted truck so I used my sct 3015x to retune the transmission and engine when I was done so no need to reflash by ford. So far I haven't had any flares but it has only been 2 days. Usually it flares every single morning with a harsh downshift jerk after about a minute at my first stop. If you have this issue you know what I'm talking about.
The solenoids that need replacing are in the 5th, 7th, and 10th position. When you pull them look for the number on the side and write it down. Do not mix them up. Then buy the solenoids needed matching to the numbers below. You need the large number to the right.
Solenoid Band Number Normally High Solenoid Part Number
1 BC3Z-7G383-J
2 BC3Z-7G383-K
3 BC3Z-7G383-L
4 BC3Z-7G383-M
5 BC3Z-7G383-N
Mine were :
5th position had a number 4 so it was 7G383 - M and cost $88.90.
7th position had a number 5 so it was 7G383 - N and cost $40.86.
10th position had a number 3 so it was 7G383 - L and cost $40.86.
If you are thinking of doing this. DO IT! It was so easy and took about an hour and a half. I have read that if you buy the exact same numbered solenoids you do not need the reflash. I also heard that if you are "deleted" you must return to stock then do the work, have ford reflash, then return to deleted. Not true. If the tuner tunes the transmission then there is no need to have ford flash because you are completely rewritting the transmission. In total the solenoids were $180 plus about $50 for the atf fluid.
Solenoid diagram
Hey Jenksie13, new to this forum but I've had my 2012 F250 for about 3 years now and have been noticing the same problems you've mentioned that you've had with your truck. Idk exactly when your harsh shifting took place, but mine does it in the morning like you said (or if sitting for awhile). When it does it in the morning, it shifts fine going from 1-2 and 2-3 but when I come to the stop at the end of my street it hard shifts from 3-1 and feels like getting rear ended, also once stopped and pulling away from the stop it takes awhile for it to shift from 1-2 and when it does it's another hard shift bits seems to clear up once it's kind of warmed up, if that makes since. I thought about doing the solenoid change myself but my trucks not deleted at this moment so I can't reprogram from home. Would you know if I would be fine changing it myself to save some money and driving it literally 1.5miles done the street to get it reprogrammed at the Ford dealership, or just take it to them and have them replace it instead?
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