6R140 shift problem
#31
just had mine in for the same issues 2-3 would slip and bang sometimes, and up-shift from 3-5 for no reason and would not shift into reverse when ever it felt like it. after a week the truck drove great , yesterday it started down shifting hard from 5-3 . so i will give it some time and see what happens.
#32
#33
Aren't our transmissions covered under the 100k powertrain warranty?
I was driving down the highway yesterday. I can't remember if cruise was set or not. But doing 70 my truck bucks and i can't figure out why until i look at the instrument cluster. It down shifted on it's own from 6th to 4th and stayed locked there for about a minute. WTF!
I was driving down the highway yesterday. I can't remember if cruise was set or not. But doing 70 my truck bucks and i can't figure out why until i look at the instrument cluster. It down shifted on it's own from 6th to 4th and stayed locked there for about a minute. WTF!
#34
Don't forget that I can look into ways to help once you've had your truck diagnosed at the dealership. To get started, just send me a PM with your info and I'll start checking out options. Be sure to include your full name, best daytime phone number, VIN, current mileage, and servicing dealership.
Crystal
#36
#37
The Problem is the TSB 11-7-10 and I fixed it myself!
I had the same shift flares for atleast 20k miles because my local stealership wanted $650 to repair and said it could take a week because the parts could be hard to find.
So I researched and bought a disc on ebay that shows how to repair my 2011 f250 and is basically the repair book copied on dvd. This is the exploded solenoid picture.
So I had the day off and decided to just drain the atf fluid, remove the pan, remove the solenoid wiring harness, remove the solenoid retaining clip, and pull the solenoids myself and write down the numbers and call and find them or order them. Luckily a ford dealer about 30 min away had all 3 so I reinserted the solenoids and put back the retaining clip and harness. Bolted back the pan, and poured back the same fluid. (Didn't have another vehicle). Then went and picked them up came back home and went back through the steps and swapped out the solenoids and this time I put in new atf fluid Valvoline MaxLife D (any mercon lv will work) 10 qts. But I have and egr and dpf deleted truck so I used my sct 3015x to retune the transmission and engine when I was done so no need to reflash by ford. So far I haven't had any flares but it has only been 2 days. Usually it flares every single morning with a harsh downshift jerk after about a minute at my first stop. If you have this issue you know what I'm talking about.
The solenoids that need replacing are in the 5th, 7th, and 10th position. When you pull them look for the number on the side and write it down. Do not mix them up. Then buy the solenoids needed matching to the numbers below. You need the large number to the right.
Solenoid Band Number Normally High Solenoid Part Number
1 BC3Z-7G383-J
2 BC3Z-7G383-K
3 BC3Z-7G383-L
4 BC3Z-7G383-M
5 BC3Z-7G383-N
Mine were :
5th position had a number 4 so it was 7G383 - M and cost $88.90.
7th position had a number 5 so it was 7G383 - N and cost $40.86.
10th position had a number 3 so it was 7G383 - L and cost $40.86.
If you are thinking of doing this. DO IT! It was so easy and took about an hour and a half. I have read that if you buy the exact same numbered solenoids you do not need the reflash. I also heard that if you are "deleted" you must return to stock then do the work, have ford reflash, then return to deleted. Not true. If the tuner tunes the transmission then there is no need to have ford flash because you are completely rewritting the transmission. In total the solenoids were $180 plus about $50 for the atf fluid.
Solenoid diagram
So I researched and bought a disc on ebay that shows how to repair my 2011 f250 and is basically the repair book copied on dvd. This is the exploded solenoid picture.
So I had the day off and decided to just drain the atf fluid, remove the pan, remove the solenoid wiring harness, remove the solenoid retaining clip, and pull the solenoids myself and write down the numbers and call and find them or order them. Luckily a ford dealer about 30 min away had all 3 so I reinserted the solenoids and put back the retaining clip and harness. Bolted back the pan, and poured back the same fluid. (Didn't have another vehicle). Then went and picked them up came back home and went back through the steps and swapped out the solenoids and this time I put in new atf fluid Valvoline MaxLife D (any mercon lv will work) 10 qts. But I have and egr and dpf deleted truck so I used my sct 3015x to retune the transmission and engine when I was done so no need to reflash by ford. So far I haven't had any flares but it has only been 2 days. Usually it flares every single morning with a harsh downshift jerk after about a minute at my first stop. If you have this issue you know what I'm talking about.
The solenoids that need replacing are in the 5th, 7th, and 10th position. When you pull them look for the number on the side and write it down. Do not mix them up. Then buy the solenoids needed matching to the numbers below. You need the large number to the right.
Solenoid Band Number Normally High Solenoid Part Number
1 BC3Z-7G383-J
2 BC3Z-7G383-K
3 BC3Z-7G383-L
4 BC3Z-7G383-M
5 BC3Z-7G383-N
Mine were :
5th position had a number 4 so it was 7G383 - M and cost $88.90.
7th position had a number 5 so it was 7G383 - N and cost $40.86.
10th position had a number 3 so it was 7G383 - L and cost $40.86.
If you are thinking of doing this. DO IT! It was so easy and took about an hour and a half. I have read that if you buy the exact same numbered solenoids you do not need the reflash. I also heard that if you are "deleted" you must return to stock then do the work, have ford reflash, then return to deleted. Not true. If the tuner tunes the transmission then there is no need to have ford flash because you are completely rewritting the transmission. In total the solenoids were $180 plus about $50 for the atf fluid.
Solenoid diagram
#39
I am going to wait till the 18 of this month to drop it off at ford. Ill be away for a month in a nice warm tropical spot lol. wont need my truck till November 21 or so. Ive just been driving in manual mode locked in third around town in the mornings. This has keep the trans from the harsh 3-4 shift. Get coffee and trans is warm by then , let the truck shift as it likes once it reaches 40c for temp.This has worked well for me as a crutch, till I can get my heap to the dealer again.Im just about ready for a new truck, just not sure if it will have a ford emblem on it.
#40
#42
well its been about 10 days , shifting from 5-3 has stopped , but now last night after 70 miles or so on the highway i got off the ramp , stopped at the stop sign . proceeded to go and nothing happened other then the RPM gauge went to 4000 . that happened twice , guess I'm going back to the dealer again .
#43
well its been about 10 days , shifting from 5-3 has stopped , but now last night after 70 miles or so on the highway i got off the ramp , stopped at the stop sign . proceeded to go and nothing happened other then the RPM gauge went to 4000 . that happened twice , guess I'm going back to the dealer again .
Crystal
#44
perfect timing i need to pull a camper very soon. the build date has me stumped
#45