2002 F-250, V-10, AUTO TRANS, 4X4, 50K MILES. Original owner, bought brand new, never had any issues. Drove on the day after Xmas, now won't start. Battery is good. Open drivers door and a very slow, very quiet "dinging" intermittent, and the gauge needles "fluctuating" WITHOUT THE KEY INSERTED! Insert key, turn to start and everything quits. Cab interior lights came on briefly, quit when key turned on. Dead as a doornail. Any ideas?

 

Is it cranking and not starting , or does not crank at all ?

 

Nada. Turn key, everything dies. Again, upon opening door, before key in ignition, very muted "dinging", buzzing and the gauge needles slightly "bouncing" in time with "dinging, buzzing noise. Pretty weird.

 

1-Check battery negative chassis connection(s) , make sure they are tight and rust free .

2- Get an ohm-meter (Harbor Freight $4.00 , Wal-Mart $10.00 ) and get a voltage reading on your battery . Low battery voltage may cause weird behavior of electronics.

I would verify these before making other diagnostic work.

Good luck,

 

if you're in a cold climate area check to make sure the battery is not actually frozen, it does happen.

 

had battery tested, good voltage and amperage, it's only 2 years old. Battery not frozen although it's been ccccoooold! NW Montana.

 

While your poking around make sure a squirrel hasn't had a meal in the engine compartment too.

 

Dirtcowboy, did you check the chassis grounding cables for tightness and corrosion ?

 

You might also unhhok the battery for a couple of hours and see if the computer regens. Also, some of the early SD's had an issue with water leaking into the fuse box.

 

Thanx for the responses. Yes I checked all of the ground straps, none broken, all tight. Called the local Ford Store and spoke to the head service writer. His opinion is the strange clicking, buzzing and the muted "dings", when the door opens, are indicative of a low voltage problem. He said the "wake up" sequence isn't starting when I open the door. He advised checking the fusible links and starter solenoid. He was a little surprised to find there wasn't a solenoid on the fender. Anyway he also said if it wasn't a fusible link it could be in the computer (SHUDDER). So I started checking. The red power cable, from the battery to the starter, with the fusible links looked pretty good until I got to the starter. Massive corrosion on the large red wire at the starter, small yellow wire very rusted at starter. Hmmmmmmmm. Read a post on how one dudes truck quit on the highway because his solenoid went out. Removed 12 year old starter, will go to town tomorrow and get a new one, ($$$215 BUX??????). Will report more tomorrow PM after I get the new one installed. Ford store is 80+ miles from me. NAPA only has a 3 year warrantee in stock. Will go new motorcraft I guess.

PS, no squirrel problems here, any more that is

 

epic fail, starter no help. Truck is going on the hook as soon as the weather will cooperate. I will report what gives.

 

OK my truck is back. to quote the invoice " main power feed inunction block had a broken terminal. replaced, truck is fine. The parts changer had never seen anything like it before. Heeeeeeesssss BACK!!

 

Good deal, glad you are back in business. I was going to have you check the fuel pump as well, but even so, I would change the fuel filter anyway.

 

This rig was serviced in mid December and the fuel filter was changed then. I change them out at least once a year and all of my rides have a spare in the vehicle. I'm looking hard at the 5 Star tuner system and a Gibson cat back exhaust and the Gibson header kit. I have an Icon 6" lift kit w/shox, a Dynatrack free spin kit with ball joints and new wheels sitting here waiting for spring to come, if it ever does. I hope Goodrich releases the new T/A KO's soon, I've been holding out for those tires.