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Hey everyone, was hoping to get some advice here. I am not a real technical person so I will explain the best I can. I have a 2004 explorer 4 wheel drive 6 cylinder. About a year ago I wore down the battery got taht charged and truck wouldnt start so I replace the starter, that didnt work. A mechanic friend said try the second key and it started so I can assume it was the key. The truck has the anti theft on it. Now back to a few months ago, same problem, wore down battery and no start. had it towed to a Ford dealer where they reset the computer and made two new keys ( the ones with the chips in them) cost me 300 bucks. Now last week, was listening to the radio packing up for a trip the battery got a little low, but did NOT die altogether. Turned the key and it tried to turn over but cut out went to start it again and nothing. Tried testing the voltage on the starter and thought it was good but not really sure. If it matters, the anti theft light that normally flashes slowly now stays on when I insert the key into the ignition. Now I noticed this am that the battery was dead again, thought that was because it is sitting there for a week. I have a battery charger so I charge it up. Not really sure what to do next, any suggestions?? Also read somewhere that the battery dying or gettting low should not cause the key to stop working. I did have a second key but unfortunately its LOST . Had an idea that if its the transponder mabye I could get a remote start installed but after finding out the cost was over 200 bucks and you need two working keys to do that, scratched that idea. Any suggestions would be appreciated, I do not have the money to have it towed to the dealer where I am sure it will cost me another 300 plus dollars. Can you get a new key by taking in proof of ownership and the VIn number or do they need to have the truck there to hook it up? Thanks and I will stay tuned for any ideas!
You need to have the keys programmed to the truck, so the truck would need to be taken to the dealership or locksmith. You may be able to find a locksmith in your area that has the equipment and makes house calls. The other option is apparently some places can make key clones which are programmed to mimic your existing working key. That would not require the truck, only the programmed key. Unfortunately if your programmed key is not working with your truck, chances are pretty good the clone would not work either.
But, I'm not sure the key is your issue anyway. If you turn the headlights on and try to start the Explorer, what do the headlights do? Do they dim considerably when the key is turned to Start, or do they maybe just blink but not dim? If they dim considerably, then the issue is probably a bad battery or a loose/dirty connection. A weak battery will not allow the SecuriLock system to function problem, along with the ECM and the starter. If the headlights just blink, then you may have a loose connection or a problem with the ignition switch. I don't believe a problem with the SecuriLock directly (such as a key that is not programmed) would prevent the starter from engaging. I think it would still let the starter engage but the fuel injectors would be cut off.
Thanks for the info Rod, I am going to charge the battery tomorrow and I will check that out, I would be happy if it was just a new battery that was needed. I thought about a locksmith and found one place (that gives estimates )to come out, trying to make sure I cover my bases before I waste money on one or the other. I am going to check and see what that anti theft light does also, if it matters, I think the last time the battery was charged that light stayed on and did not flash like it normally does. It may be the battery as it keeps losing its charge which did not happen the last time. I will keep u posted thanks again!
Yeah, I really think you need to look in to the battery/charging system before worrying too much about the anti-theft system. Open the hood and close the doors, wait an hour, and see what the static voltage is at the battery. It should be at least 12.5 Vdc. If the static voltage is much less than 12.5 Vdc then your battery is too low to effectively start and run the engine. This could be a worn battery, a battery with an open cell, or there is a really large parasitic draw on the battery from something like a glovebox light that stays on, etc.
If your meter has a Min Hold feature, use that and see what the voltage drops to when the key is in the Start position. If no Min Hold feature, this will require two people, one to watch the meter and one to turn the key to the Start position. If the meter drops below 10.3 Vdc, that's an issue. There's either a really large draw on the battery from the starter or the battery is weak. If the voltage barely drops with the key in the Start position and the starter does not engage, then there's either a circuit issue (dirty or loose connection, open circuit) or something telling the system not to engage the starter motor.