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What motor is it going on? If it's a small block(300, 302, 351) consider using an AOD to get that OD ratio and torque converter bypass in 3rd and 4th for big fuel milage improvements.
Yeah it's going on a small block. 302 right now and hopefully dropping in a 351 in the future. Is an AOD computer controlled or can it go on a carb engine? What is good models and years to look for one on?
AOD is not computer controlled. I got one out of a Mustang. 2WD or 4WD doesn't matter that much if you're going to get the adapter to mate it to a Dana 20 transfer case. I don't know if there are any particular things to look for or years that are more or less desirable.
I didn't think I had enough clearance between my front driveshaft and the trans pan, so I ended up cutting and patching the pan to get more room. Don't know that it was necessary, but it seemed like a good idea considering what I saw.
By the way, I put a manual valve body in my AOD as well as dumping the lockup torque converter. Overall that didn't work out so well for me. I went back to the stock 3 speed for the short term and am now swapping in an NV3550 5 spd manual.
my c-6 held up great it was originally 2wd out of a station wagon but an advance adapter to the dana 20 had to move rear cross member back a couple inches new shafts w big 1350 ujoints but she held up to 400 hp for years of abuse!!truck would pull wheelies with 39.5s. also had a tci kit in it and a mild stall.
Ok so obviously no fitment issues w/ the transmission tunnel. Good to know! Any other parts I would need besides a adapter for the transfer case if I find a 2wd trans?
Ok so obviously no fitment issues w/ the transmission tunnel. Good to know! Any other parts I would need besides a adapter for the transfer case if I find a 2wd trans?
My bronco has about a 1" body lift. I don't know that it needed it to clear the AOD, but I can't swear that it would have cleared without it either.
And if you stick with the stock Dana 20 transfer case you'll need the adapter whether you start with a 2WD or 4WD trans. The only way to avoid that is get the t.case out of the same vehicle the AOD came out of and swap that in as well.
Was the t-case shifter able to stay in stock location?
Pretty much. The AOD is an inch or two longer than the stock trans so the transfer case, along with the shifter, moves back the same amount. I ended up needing to cut the hole in the floor a little bigger, but not so much that the boot wouldn't cover it.
The later AOD transmissions('90s) were built much better than the earlier models and converting a 2wd version to 4wd requires a complete dismantling to change the output shaft so you're better off sourcing one from a truck and if you're doing that grab the attached 1356 t-case at the same time. There are lots of upgrades for these things now kevlar bands, high strength input shafts, over sized clutch packs, but one of the best things you can do is install a valvebody shift kit, the stock slushy shifts are murder on friction parts. If you're looking for one of these in the junkyard look for trans code T on the drivers door pillar, make sure to also grab the TV cable attached to the throttlebody, and also be sure to get the flexplate. This trans requires a specific flexplate, if you accidentally install a C6 or E4OD flexplate on it the TC will be pushed back into the pump too far and it will self destruct the first time the engine is fired. This requires a complete rebuild to fix so make double sure to avoid this, the AOD flexplate will have the letters AOD stamped onto a flat surface and of course they are 5.0 and 5.8 specific because of the difference in balance weights.
The later AOD transmissions('90s) were built much better than the earlier models and converting a 2wd version to 4wd requires a complete dismantling to change the output shaft so you're better off sourcing one from a truck and if you're doing that grab the attached 1356 t-case at the same time. There are lots of upgrades for these things now kevlar bands, high strength input shafts, over sized clutch packs, but one of the best things you can do is install a valvebody shift kit, the stock slushy shifts are murder on friction parts. If you're looking for one of these in the junkyard look for trans code T on the drivers door pillar, make sure to also grab the TV cable attached to the throttlebody, and also be sure to get the flexplate. This trans requires a specific flexplate, if you accidentally install a C6 or E4OD flexplate on it the TC will be pushed back into the pump too far and it will self destruct the first time the engine is fired. This requires a complete rebuild to fix so make double sure to avoid this, the AOD flexplate will have the letters AOD stamped onto a flat surface and of course they are 5.0 and 5.8 specific because of the difference in balance weights.
Thanks that's a lot of great info. I just found a 1990 bronco on Craigslist that turns out I know the guy. He says it's a 351w and 4wd with 80,000 original mi but the body is junk and tranny and transfer case in great condition too! Would that be a AOD or a e4od. Would it matter either way?
Thanks that's a lot of great info. I just found a 1990 bronco on Craigslist that turns out I know the guy. He says it's a 351w and 4wd with 80,000 original mi but the body is junk and tranny and transfer case in great condition too! Would that be a AOD or a e4od. Would it matter either way?
I think that would be the AOD, but don't trust me too much, I don't like autos so I don't know too much about them. But If that Bronco is cheap enough, I'd get it. You can drop in the 351w with a carb or get an adapter and bolt on a mustang upper intake to run fuel injection (the truck intakes are too tall with out some serious body lift and probably a hood scoop too).
Other things you could use are the hubs/rotors/lockouts for a disk brake swap, the steering column for a tilt wheel, and probably a few other things such as the coolant overflow/washer fluid container.