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From what I've gathered, the biggest advantage to a twin stick is that you can drive whichever axle(s) you want in whatever gear you want. It gives you the option of being in front wheel drive, low range, which can give you some maneuverability advantages in some situations.
To get that option with a twin stick you'd also need to remove the lock-out pin that keeps the shift rails from getting out of synch with each other. If you pull the pin without a twin stick you can end up with one end in low and the other in high, which wouldn't be so good. Of course you can do that with a twin stick too, but at least you have control of it.
Late to this party already going, but my 0.02 is a twin stick is a great mod for maneuverability (front dig), fun like turning brakes on a dune buggy....
I can get married NP205 xfer case for $75 all day long in my area, $200 is crazy prices....unless fresh rebuilt and already twin sticked.
Just to clear up some terminology here... all NP205s and D20s have two (2) shift rails (front and rear), but they are coupled by a bar to allow a single shifter (factory) to manipulate both rails. This is what makes twin sticks possible. Now you have one shifter per rail allowing you to independently engage either axle. Most (if not all) chain driven tcases only have one shift rail, and therefore, cannot be twin sticked.
Hit a major snag and you y'alls help again. I got my AOD 2 weeks ago out of an 88 full size bronco with the adapter between it and the bw case. I finally got my np205 today and when i got home they dont mate up. One of the shift rods on the transfer case is in the way between where the two flanges for the trans and transfer case should bolt together.
It never occurred to me the shift lever was potentially in the way.
This guy is using a ford np205 in a chevy. But hopefully it pertains to you as well.
See if you can just clearance the adapter to get it to fit. Doesn't look too bad.
it's a system, needs prts to match for a chosen application
Originally Posted by dclack
Yes, you need to notch the tailhousing, just like in the second pic in the link UNTAMND posted. You have to do the same thing to the ZF.
"...clearance..."
"...notch..."
get a 4.5 inch grinder (welder's grinder) with a cut off wheel, slice a sm. bit off the housing, grind a dent in, etc...
Didn't view the attachments (on dial-up here) but wont he need to customize the current or build a new X-member for that tranny?
Such a thread I forgot what motor...
(some kinda BW transfer [1350?] & an AOD.
hummm this is getting interesting.
Is this for street application? heavy rock crawlin? mild trail, muddin? What's the vehicle application)?