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I have a question concerning starters for the 7.3. Can the starter still function but maybe draw down the battery? Are there other less obvious symptoms of a bad starter?
I have had a few issues with my Excursion and have replaced the alternator and the batteries check out.
I have seen a few starters over the years that had a high resistance short. They would draw 2 or 3 amps when sitting at rest but still functioned normally.
Let me ask a question, when you are connecting the batteries do you get a spark when connecting the neg? If yes a big spark or just a little fizzle ?
When in doubt...... put in a new starter. Cuz if theres a problem it could ruin your day. The only time my e99 refused to start was due to a starter problem. its got 175k now.
I have seen a few starters over the years that had a high resistance short. They would draw 2 or 3 amps when sitting at rest but still functioned normally.
Let me ask a question, when you are connecting the batteries do you get a spark when connecting the neg? If yes a big spark or just a little fizzle ?
Not a big spark, but not little either. What I might have to do is to pull the starter and take it to Napa and have them test it out.
I had issues with my starter and it bench tested good.over the course of the year it got slower and slower for the first start of the day.on a good cold day I didn't plug it in and it cranked so slow and drained batteries in one attempt.new starter and now it crankes better than ever.
Not a big spark, but not little either. What I might have to do is to pull the starter and take it to Napa and have them test it out.
Before you do that, see what kind of current draw is present aka parasitic load test before and after disconnecting the starter from the circuit. Not sure if bench testing picks that up? It "should".
I have a 2002 f350 diesel and got a new starter a NAPA and I have had no problems other than my own stupidity. The starter solenoid is mounted on top of my starter and the new one from napa has a big red tag that tells you not to over torque when attaching the battery wire. Well, I just tightened it up with my wrench and promptly broke it. It says on the tag that it will void the warranty but napa did take it back and gave me a new one. 20,000 miles on the new starter, no problems (also has a lifetime warranty).
I was plagued with draining batteries for a couple of years. After several attempts to troubleshoot, my batteries were still dying (Optima Red Tops). If I left it for more than 24 hours without starting it the truck would either barely start or not at all. Turned out to be my starter killing my electrical system. New starter and a fresh set of batteries (every cell but two were dead when I had them tested) and I haven't had any problems in two years.
Electric faults can do strange things. This is a good periodic test to perform to prevent costly repairs down the road. I'm doing OK, cept to me batteries are expensive, and if I can save $$$ by just using a voltmeter in a couple spots why not??it doesn't hurt anything to keep batteries in charged up condition and the cables and clamps clean and tight. While you're doing a drop test on the cables and battery, starter there's another easy test on these trucks by measuring for voltage with one probe at the positive battery post and the other in the coolant solution of the radiator. Should be no more than a few tenths of a volt leakage. Current can sometimes flow through antifreeze to an excessive degree that way..
Read about a trucking fleet that was having a serious corrosion problem with something, costing them a mint. Turns out static buildup at the pumpkin was being transferred along the driveshaft into the engine and cooling system and corroding out radiators or something like.
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