EGR Cooler Removal
#1
EGR Cooler Removal
I know there are thousands of threads on egr delete, not being totally lazy, just a little lazy as I have read many threads but still can't find the explanation I am looking for.
I am getting my truck reprogrammed and one of the options is EGR delete, I need to make a decision as to if I want this option. I was looking at putting an EGR delete kit in and it looks like a pretty tough job.
So my question is - what is the benefit of removing the EGR cooler over unplugging/removing the EGR valve? Lastly, there are EGR delete kits on Ebay for really cheap (around $65), the one I saw was lifetime warranty and made of stainless steel by company called "Autoparts 4 USA", seller Outlet4USA. Does anyone have any experience with these kits good or bad?
I am getting my truck reprogrammed and one of the options is EGR delete, I need to make a decision as to if I want this option. I was looking at putting an EGR delete kit in and it looks like a pretty tough job.
So my question is - what is the benefit of removing the EGR cooler over unplugging/removing the EGR valve? Lastly, there are EGR delete kits on Ebay for really cheap (around $65), the one I saw was lifetime warranty and made of stainless steel by company called "Autoparts 4 USA", seller Outlet4USA. Does anyone have any experience with these kits good or bad?
#2
An EGR delete has two benefits. The first is it blocks the path of exhaust gasses from entering the intake air. The second is it prevents EGR cooler leaks (a common problem) from allowing coolant into the intake. Also the EGR valve is a "secondary" place to block exhaust gas flow.
Coolant in the cylinder expands at a much higher rate (ratio) than the normal mixture which causes excessively high pressure in the cylinder and is a common cause for stretching head bolts. Reduced head bolt tension combined with the higher cylinder pressures results in head gasket failure.
Exhaust gasses in the intake dilute the intake "charge" causing reduced power, also the high soot content of the exhaust combined with normal crankcase blow by make a sticky, gummy residue the is very good at clogging sensors and actuators (like the EGR valve).
I don't have any experience with the inexpensive delete kits but I would say quality parts are always a good idea, especially one that is so buried in the engine. Also be sure local EPA inspection and testing requirements aren't going to catch you.
If your 2004 truck is an early model (with the ICP sensor behind the turbo- not on the passenger side valve cover)it has a very solid, round, EGR cooler and you could leave it on the truck without worry of it leaking coolant. Combine that with turning off the EGR VALVE with the tuner and you will be set. This also allows turning it back on for emission testing if that becomes necessary.
If you have a late 2004 with the ICP on the valve cover, a delete would be good insurance against future coolant leakage as the later style, square coolers were not a stout part. Aftermarket EGR cooler are also available that fit the late model trucks but have the "guts" of the early style cooler. Yet another option.
No matter which way you go, the EGR VALVE needs to stay plugged in. The PCM uses the signal from it to help decide what speed to run the engine cooling fan. If this signal is missing, on many trucks the fan will not go into high speed mode no matter how hot the truck gets. Some people pull the valve and install a delete plug in the intake and zip-tie valve to the engine but I think it looks better and is less hassle to leave it mounted where it goes.
Coolant in the cylinder expands at a much higher rate (ratio) than the normal mixture which causes excessively high pressure in the cylinder and is a common cause for stretching head bolts. Reduced head bolt tension combined with the higher cylinder pressures results in head gasket failure.
Exhaust gasses in the intake dilute the intake "charge" causing reduced power, also the high soot content of the exhaust combined with normal crankcase blow by make a sticky, gummy residue the is very good at clogging sensors and actuators (like the EGR valve).
I don't have any experience with the inexpensive delete kits but I would say quality parts are always a good idea, especially one that is so buried in the engine. Also be sure local EPA inspection and testing requirements aren't going to catch you.
If your 2004 truck is an early model (with the ICP sensor behind the turbo- not on the passenger side valve cover)it has a very solid, round, EGR cooler and you could leave it on the truck without worry of it leaking coolant. Combine that with turning off the EGR VALVE with the tuner and you will be set. This also allows turning it back on for emission testing if that becomes necessary.
If you have a late 2004 with the ICP on the valve cover, a delete would be good insurance against future coolant leakage as the later style, square coolers were not a stout part. Aftermarket EGR cooler are also available that fit the late model trucks but have the "guts" of the early style cooler. Yet another option.
No matter which way you go, the EGR VALVE needs to stay plugged in. The PCM uses the signal from it to help decide what speed to run the engine cooling fan. If this signal is missing, on many trucks the fan will not go into high speed mode no matter how hot the truck gets. Some people pull the valve and install a delete plug in the intake and zip-tie valve to the engine but I think it looks better and is less hassle to leave it mounted where it goes.
#3
Thanks for the detailed response. I am going to take a look at the ICP and go from there. One other approach I read about is having the ends of the existing EGR cooler welded shut, this approach negates the need to modify the down pipe. Advocates of welding the existing EGR cooler say the Y-pipe that feeds the EGR cooler is a critical support of the down pipe, apparently some have had cracked exhaust bellows subsequent to deleting the EGR cooler.
#4
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post