99 F250 CCSB 7.3L 6 speed 251000 miles

So i am getting ready to order parts for a bunch of stuff (IPR, GP's, UVCH) and i am going to rebuild or delete my EBPV. I was on Riffraff and it is basicly $100 for a rebuild kit or $110 or so for a new pedestal without the EBPV.

I live in north texas and this year we have had a few days below freezing. I have heard the EBPV kick in 3 times out of all of them. Do i need it? Will it hurt to delete it?

Thanks in advance.
Dale

 

You may want the high flow outlet to replace the butterfly if you delete the EBPV - that makes this change a little more expensive. I went this route - I wanted to eliminate a source of oil leak (mine was leaking at the time), and reduce EGTs by any way possible. No harm in doing this mod.

If you plan to tow big, you may want to keep the EBPV to use as an exhaust brake with the proper tune.

Leaving the EBPV disconnected will set a soft code (no SES light), but this can be eliminated by installing a 470 ohm 1W resistor across the pigtail contacts.

 

Exactly what Jeff said.^^

 

i deleted mine cost $5, i also i took out the butterfly.

 

How did you do this?

 

Short story I'd remove it, they are not worth the hassle of repairing ongoing oil leaks, poor performance and are questionable for heating the engine, when cold out.

If you are handy and have the gear gut it yourself (lots of info out there do a search) or as an alternative and less hassle get a pedestal w/o EBPV on it. The one at Riff Raff looks good for the price. In respect to the actual exhaust valve and using as an engine brake it does work best with a standard tranny and programming to lock up the TC.

For me I cut the plunger barrel off the back of the pedestal with a zip cut saw, drilled and tapped the oil gallery holes and activation piston hole using brass plugs. Sealed hole at the end of the plunger barrel with JB weld. Has worked well, albeit not very pretty.

I cut the rivets off the butterfly valve, removed it as well as the butterfly valve rod and sealed the rod holes with frost plugs.

While you have the pedestal off you may want to remove an amount of webbing between the two front feet, such that you can easily access the large banjo fuel bolt pending if you have one on your version of engine. I know mine are OBS engines and it made removing the fuel banjo way easier, just can't remember if the early 99 had stock e-fuel?

jrc

 

I vote delete. I live in Maine where we have plenty of cold winters, and have never has a problem without it. Ans a non-ebv pedestal is nice due to less places to leak oil from.

 

Thank you for all the info everyone. I think will get the new pedestal and go that route.

 

I have ordered the pedestal and the Highflow Outlet. How hard is the installation of the outlet? What is entailed?

 

The outlet is the easy part once you get the turbocharger off the truck. It's just seven 12 point, 8mm bolts. Torque spec for the outlet bolts is 15-17 ft/lbs.

 

Awsome!!! i saw somewhere earlier that someone was grinding rivets and got scared... lol.

Thanks

 

That's to delete the EBPV from your existing outlet housing. That was the route I went, and it wasn't too bad to do.

 

I hope you looked into whether you have an early 99 or not, the EBPV delete pedestals are different than later 99.5 -2003 ones. I did the delete, and even though it was a gusher, it did warm up the truck quicker, tho I have other issues this winter that may be affecting my comparison.

Changing the outlet part is easy, but since you're there, getting all the turbo orings, and even a rebuild kit, isn't much more work at all (and can be done in a warm kitchen if the wifey's away)...

I'm about to order that 470ohm resistor for my truck, for emissions testing here in PA, I'm afraid that the soft code may affect my passing inspection next May. Anybody need any? They're like soda pop, the pop is essentially free, it's the bottle (shipping) that you pay for...

 

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