I know my crank sensor is bad, but the other problems I have, is that when the truck warms up to full temp, and only in the summer if I shut the truck down for a short period of time, and start it again, the truck will lope starting in a low controlled manner and gradually lope in bigger waves until the bottom of the lope kills the motor. That is what happens most of the time. It also throws codes for turbo pressure not sensed, along with about 7 other codes. The other times, same situation, I will get it to start but instead of loping it will idle extraordinarily high, but will allow me to engage drive and at least travel home or somewhere, to let it sit awhile and then it's normal again. This trips some codes like input into transmission to high along with some of the other codes from the loping. It doesn't do this in the winter, the only problem in the winter is the occasional skip or die from the failing crank sensor. I know it's the crank sensor because I've changed it to a b/d brand grey crank sensor and it fixes the skip and die. But it's short lived like 6 months max and the go bad, real bad with no restart, so I put the trusty black stock crank sensor back in and deal with the skips, i just want to try and fix these problems so my truck is more reliable, any direction or help is really appreciated. Thanks ahead of time. 7.3 l limited excursion

 

Moved to the 7.3L PSD forum.

Stewart

 

When you can, list all the trouble codes so we can get a better understanding. For starters I would replace the CPS with a motorcraft one. The aftermarket brands seem to have there problems - quite a few complaints online. You can get them at the Ford dealer or Riff Raff Diesel sells them for @ $26.

 

I also second the CPS, mine went on the fritz causing the strangest warm start problems. I changed it out with another black CPS and bingo, problems gone. It's the easiest and a Ford unit is only 40ish bucks I think.

 

Ok thanks guys . I will definitely do that, I didn't know that the price was so cheap on the motor craft ones, that's actually about the same as the b&d ones, I was on this forum a few years ago and the last thing I remember reading about was how the originals like that we're going for over 80 - 100 bucks sometimes more on eBay. And were getting hard to find, but even then seemed to be the only ones that worked decent. So when I found the b&d at orielly's with life time warrant I decided to keep my old trusty one with ticks and just change back and forth when they went out for warranty. I had heard that there were things that were off with the grey ones, like quirks withe timing of the number four cylinder and stuff like that when you watch it run on live wire but I did not know they were that bad to cause those kinds of problems right out the box. And I say that because I changed one right in orielly's driveway on a warm motor and cleared the codes and it still did it, right from a brand new grey one, but it does it much less with the old stock black one and never in the winter so, I was leaning in that direction anyway and you guys pretty much confirmed what I was thinking, Thanks again,,
it is really nice to have this site to bounce thoughts and ideas back and forth, to come out on the right track. Definitely an invaluable asset to the do it yourselfer.