Ok so about a week after I had a dead truck with no oil pressure because of a bad #8 injector I went to the lighter weight 5w-40 CJ4 Oil, Hoping it would help my still present cold start issue.
I drove for about a week and now its smoking white like a motha...

Im assuming this would be a bad ORing? I see no oil in coolent, Coolent level has not moved but I've added 2 qrts oil twice in a weak.

Another injector is really all it could be correct?
What else shall I check before I say screw it and order all injectors and my t500?

Im gonna ask one more time. I have early 99 with AB injectors.
I can replace them all with AD injectors with no issues correct?

I have been told yes on here once already but when I got this reman #8 from a local injector shop the *** Munch behind the counter insisted NO ab's had to be replaced with AB's


I WANT TO DO THEM ALL AND PUT IN AD's instead of AB's.

Any input on Clays Full Force injectors over the NEW Allient ones?

 

I wanna know more about this! I've been chasing the smoke issue for a month now. I too am loosing oil, but I've already replaced everything except the actual injectors.

I've tested as much as I can with AE and all comes good except a #8 IDM code. I think I have a lazy injector or bad oRings. I'm like you and wanna just replace and be done. I'm liking the AC's for my 2002.

I'll keep a watch in this thread! Good luck

 

In short, you can replace all injectors with AD injectors with know issues. Clay can get new injectors also. I would bet much cheaper as well. Only thing you could do if wanted is put the AE injector in #8 hole. I wouldn't, I'd just put his dual feed kit on to feed the back of each head. You don't need either one but it dose help fuel delivery to #8. With your white smoke I would pressure test your coolant system and check you injector cups for sure.

 

Before sticking up, I'd make sure you have good, even compression. Doing a stick-up mean more mods, so make sure you have a good foundation to attach your money to.

Like Bonanza35 was implying, make sure you address the air in fuel issues and use a fuel return off the head. Riffraff Diesel has the FRx for eliminating the deadhead issue, and a complete Hutch mod has helped many trucks with cackle and fuel delivery issues. Once those mods are done, you no longer need a "special" injector in #8.

Speaking of #8, the gray Cam Position Sensor always makes #8 a suspect (and sometimes #3). So... unless you're seeing some other clue, be wary of making #8 the scapegoat.

 

Plz elaborate on "Dead Head issue" that I keep seeing but never find a definition on and "Cackle"???

"Doing a stick-up mean more mods" Such as?

How do I check compression? Rent tool and .....?

I was thinking of doing cups also and just being done with the system since sticks will be out. What more would that entail?

 

Here is the description from RiffRaff:
"The FRx was made to solve the 'deadhead' fuel rail issue on the 99-03 Powerstroke engine by connecting the two heads and allowing a metered return you allow the air another return path, rather than forcing it through your injectors. This product was designed to eliminate the need to cut your return line and use compression fittings, so that it is a true bolt on system. We have also machined the FRx block to provide from stock to 72 psi of fuel pressure depending on which spring you choose to install it with. By using our kit and eliminating the air in the fuel system you will experience smoother, quieter idle, less cackle, and better throttle response among other things. You will also be increasing your injector life as well."

Basically, fuel travels through the fuel rail starting at the spot where the fuel line coming off the fuel bowl connects. On the drivers side it's at the front, passenger side is at the rear. This means the two cylinders opposite the feed line (#1 & #8) get fuel last, and all the air gets pushed there was well, causing cackle (typically a tapping or tinking sound as air gets pushed thru the injector) and premature wear. The FRx utilizes test ports at these locations to give air another route to return to the tank, rather than traveling back through the rail OR simply being forced thru the injector.

I recommend reading over the instructions on RiffRaffs site, it should give you a much better idea what you're aiming to accomplish.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conte...structions.pdf

 

Here is a diagram out of the Ford manual:



Note that the heads are a fuel cul-de-sac, and the only way out is through the injector. Air in fuel will go to #8 and #1, and this make a noisier engine.

The Hutch mod solves the problem of getting air in the fuel, and the FRx is the modification that helps smooth the fuel flow and remove any air that does get in the fuel (like a low-fuel situation). The FRx connects to circles 1 and 2, then returns the fuel to the pressure regulator, and ultimately back to the tank.

A compression test is a matter of getting a gauge for a diesel, and a fitting that goes into a 7.3L glow plug hole... however that's managed.

I've seen a whole lotta injector swaps done without disturbing the cups. I split a cup when I failed to get the injector torqued down, not recognizing that banging and smoke meant the injector was loose, and finishing the drive on my vacation 700 miles from home. Those cups are pretty robust to take that kind of punishment and not fail completely. I had to do cups, and I hope I never have to do that again.

If you go to AC160s (International Harvester T444HD injectors), you need a tuner for sure, and it's best to get a lot more air - so that means air intake, 4" exhaust, and maybe a turbo. You can get by without upgrading air, but you're inviting high EGTs and coal out the exhaust. That stock transmission ain't gunna make it, so you at least need some upgrades in there, unless you tune the new sticks for stock power.

I went with AC160/100s and I had to install stock-height ladder bars to prevent the axle wrap the torque causes. So... I say stick-ups can require more mods to support them.

 

Tugly

Im not planning on going AC... Just old AB's to New AD's since they have just a little more flow and are the most common stock injector. AD's should not require anything extra correct? I am going to install the frx also.

I have a Hydra chip but just incase it goes out for some reason Id like to know itll run when I remove chip if need be.

 

No need for any extra supporting mods if you are just swapping ab injectors for ad...

Compression testing...
Harbor freight sells a diesel compression test kit.
You will have to make an adapter to screw in to the glow plug ports and not have a pushrod/rocker arm in your way.

Parts list for adapter:

1 harbor freight 3kpsi rated grease hose
1 1/8 npt female to female coupler.

Thread one end of the grease hose into the coupler...
Find one of the quick disconnects from the compression test kit that fits the other end of the coupler...
Thread them together...

Now u have a quick disconnect adapter for the 7.3Powerstroke.

Remove all 8 glow plugs.
Disconnect the 42pin engine harness.

Connect the tester to a glow plug hole... crank engine and watch the needle.
I like to crank for a good 10 seconds.

Record the highest shown pressure on the gauge...

Rinse and repeat for the other 7 cylinders.

 

DO NOT DO CUPS UNLESS THEY ARE LEAKING!!!!!

 

Like Chris says, AD's need no special tuning or mods. I just urge the usual with that chip - truck 100%, gauges, and get the air out of the fuel.

 

Take a look at your fuel filter and see if it is black. If it is you have injector oring issues and I would start with Inj #8.

If the fuel filter is clean here is something to consider although I have no first hand experience with this myself but have read numerous posts where members have switched to a different/thinner oil and started losing it. It's one of the things you changed before noticing the oil loss but in your case 4qts is a lot of oil in a week. I would switch back to what you were using. It's cheap and easy and I would rule it out to make sure the thinner oil is not high lighting something that is on the edge of failure (Turbo seals?). I know I'm reaching here.....

 

So Im finally doing this job now.
Smoking like a champ....

T500 HPOP
All 8 AD INJECTORS
HPx
FRx
Fuel Bowl Rebuild.

I did Gps under a year ago while working on the everlasting cold start issue with AutoLite's because I didn't know anybetter at the time


Now the second GP back on each side wont come out. It is past the thread out but im assuming swollen? I was able to get DS out with slide hammer without it crumbling but PS is still stuck in head.

WHY?
Is it normal for all 7 so far to have oil on them?
Any secret ways to get this GP out without pulling head?

Should I re torque Rocker arms or check lash while in there?
I have pulled 2 rockers to get in with slide hammer. What spec to tighten to?


WTH? Why Me?lol