HPOP Questions
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
I would say negative on a fuel issue. Normally with gelled or bad fuel it will sputter when cranking. Plus your numbers on the video says it. I think Mike told me,, and I've verified it a couple times, that when it's the ipr,, a general icp # would be 170-220 cranking.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
Likes: 3,617
The IPR Valve was very clean when I pulled it. The screen was in fine condition.
I am going to put the updated fitting on and then clean everything up and start reassembling. I do use for filters, and now I have an OEM cap.
I use synthetic oil, and it currently has about 5000 miles on it and the oil really looks like crap. It was due for a change, so it will be changed as well. I had just filled up on fuel prior to the truck dying. I have never had a problem with fuel there, but I wonder if I got a bad load of fuel.
I am going to put the updated fitting on and then clean everything up and start reassembling. I do use for filters, and now I have an OEM cap.
I use synthetic oil, and it currently has about 5000 miles on it and the oil really looks like crap. It was due for a change, so it will be changed as well. I had just filled up on fuel prior to the truck dying. I have never had a problem with fuel there, but I wonder if I got a bad load of fuel.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
I too, say it's definitely not a fuel issue. Given that it quit on you as though you turned the ignition off like you describe, I will almost bet the farm you have a bad IPR valve (even if the screen looks okay).
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
Hey Guys,
Finally got some more nice weather. So I am now putting the truck back together after doing the STC fitting upgrade.
Last night I decided to try to find a way to check the IPR. Please take a look at this video and tell me if you think my test is valid or not. I believe the IPR is shot.
I put some shop air through it. It leaks some air, but my understanding is that withouth 12v the valve is never really completely closed, or if it does completely close, that mine is not completely closing. Then when I apply 12v I should get a whole bunch more air through it, but there is no change in air flow.
Now I know there should be a lot more pressure on it, so maybe I am not performing a valid test. There is also a bit more spark when I apply the wires to the terminals than I expected. but that maybe because I used soft raw wires instead of a nice solid probes which would have made better contact.
Anyway thoughts would be much appreciated.
John
Finally got some more nice weather. So I am now putting the truck back together after doing the STC fitting upgrade.
Last night I decided to try to find a way to check the IPR. Please take a look at this video and tell me if you think my test is valid or not. I believe the IPR is shot.
I put some shop air through it. It leaks some air, but my understanding is that withouth 12v the valve is never really completely closed, or if it does completely close, that mine is not completely closing. Then when I apply 12v I should get a whole bunch more air through it, but there is no change in air flow.
Now I know there should be a lot more pressure on it, so maybe I am not performing a valid test. There is also a bit more spark when I apply the wires to the terminals than I expected. but that maybe because I used soft raw wires instead of a nice solid probes which would have made better contact.
Anyway thoughts would be much appreciated.
John
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Given the information you've provided, I would. What do you get for an ohm reading between the two pins on the IPR just for S's and G's?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,833
Likes: 4
From: Jefferson, Iowa
Have you tried removing the screen, pressing in on the brass cone shaped piece in the middle and flushing with wd40 and then blowing out with shop air. I have had several issues with my ipr that was resolved by cleaning. Each time my screen was intact.
Sent from my leash using IB AutoGroup
Sent from my leash using IB AutoGroup
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
I get 5.3-5.4 Ohms on a continuity test.
I will pop the screen off around lunch and see what a cleaning yields. I will try to video that for entertainment purposes.
I will pop the screen off around lunch and see what a cleaning yields. I will try to video that for entertainment purposes.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
Just a quick update for anyone who might be curious. The problem was indeed the IPR valve.
I finally got back to the truck this past weekend, Did the STC fitting update. Reinstalled the HPOP, with a new IPR valve. I put in a new EGT hose (it was a blue one already but I figured why not) and and turbo oil return tube. I also changed the oil / filter / and cap. I found the CAC tube had a crack in it, so it was replaced with a nice shiny new metal tube.
It was a little nerve wracking at first as I expected to have to crank for a while to get the oil up, but it never came up with ANY pressure at all on the first few cranks. Then I glanced over at the oil pressure cage on the dash and noticed no pressure there either. I was becoming a bit concerned when all of a sudden the low pressure came up and then she fired right up!
I have a few more button-up tasks to do. I still need to put in a brass fitting on the radiator, since I snapped that off when I was taking the tank out. But she is back to life!
Thanks to everyone who gave some advice. I really appreciate all your input.
John
I finally got back to the truck this past weekend, Did the STC fitting update. Reinstalled the HPOP, with a new IPR valve. I put in a new EGT hose (it was a blue one already but I figured why not) and and turbo oil return tube. I also changed the oil / filter / and cap. I found the CAC tube had a crack in it, so it was replaced with a nice shiny new metal tube.
It was a little nerve wracking at first as I expected to have to crank for a while to get the oil up, but it never came up with ANY pressure at all on the first few cranks. Then I glanced over at the oil pressure cage on the dash and noticed no pressure there either. I was becoming a bit concerned when all of a sudden the low pressure came up and then she fired right up!
I have a few more button-up tasks to do. I still need to put in a brass fitting on the radiator, since I snapped that off when I was taking the tank out. But she is back to life!
Thanks to everyone who gave some advice. I really appreciate all your input.
John
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
How do you know it was the IPR and not the HPOP fitting, though? The fitting will 'look' good but still be bad.
I'm not questioning that the IPR was shot, though, since it has seen several thousand miles of unfiltered oil and that could have easily damaged the IPR. But did you try your shop air test or ohm test on the new IPR for a control test?
I'm not questioning that the IPR was shot, though, since it has seen several thousand miles of unfiltered oil and that could have easily damaged the IPR. But did you try your shop air test or ohm test on the new IPR for a control test?
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
Well, I dont know for sure it was the IPR I guess, since I did not bench test the new one. I guess when I looked at the STC fitting there was absolutely no indication of a problem. There was no wear on it all, the fitting was clean and tight against the pipe. There were no wear marks on the block or the passage it bolts too nor were there any indications of oil leaking.
I do wish I had taken the time to bench test that new valve now you mention it, to see if/what the difference is. It would have been good to document it. I am thinking about breaking down the old valve now to have a look inside. I will record that when I do.
I do wish I had taken the time to bench test that new valve now you mention it, to see if/what the difference is. It would have been good to document it. I am thinking about breaking down the old valve now to have a look inside. I will record that when I do.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,413
Likes: 11
Well, I dont know for sure it was the IPR I guess, since I did not bench test the new one. I guess when I looked at the STC fitting there was absolutely no indication of a problem. There was no wear on it all, the fitting was clean and tight against the pipe. There were no wear marks on the block or the passage it bolts too nor were there any indications of oil leaking.
I do wish I had taken the time to bench test that new valve now you mention it, to see if/what the difference is. It would have been good to document it. I am thinking about breaking down the old valve now to have a look inside. I will record that when I do.
I do wish I had taken the time to bench test that new valve now you mention it, to see if/what the difference is. It would have been good to document it. I am thinking about breaking down the old valve now to have a look inside. I will record that when I do.
Couldn't you just reinstall your old ipr to see if it causes the no start?
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