Hello ford nation. I have an issue with oil leaking from my front seal I think. it looks like from bottom of timing case. is this an easy job for a guy who can wrench. if so is there a step/step thread
Thanks and
Have An Easy Day

 

The Chilton manual is a really nice reference. There's a book specifically for our older diesels(it has both Chevy and Ford ones), and only cost me $25 or so at the local Napa. It has all sorts of diagrams and such, really nice.

BTW, I suspect you're going to be pulling the engine to do this. It's not going to be an afternoon job, or even a weekend. Especially if you don't have every tool.
I would recommend not doing it unless you've got an alternate way of getting to work and/or the auto parts store, because my experience has been that when you get down that far into things, you will miss some crucial bit, something will stick, or just plain take a lot of time.

If you need to wait for a while, just add some Lucas oil stabilizer, which will minimize your leaks until you can fix it right.

 

Yes it is fairly easy, time consuming but not rocket science, and I did it without pulling the engine. Yep, I really did. I had to do mine on accident when I broke the seal on the timing cover by getting a little too aggressive when I was removing my water pump. So I had to do this as a last resort before pulling the engine and it worked. This will probably be considered bad advise but if it works it works. You should decide if you want to pull the engine or not. I'm sure the proper maintenance procedure says to pull it, but this worked for me.


-Remove radiator: optional (It makes a lot of room)
-Remove accessories
-remove the fan clutch
-remove the water pump
-remove the timing cover (you will break the gasket on the front of the oil pan, don't panic)
-clean all machined surfaces
-replace the front seal (if it has a grove on the crank you should use a speedy --sleeve or it will leak again. Have the speedy sleeve on hand before you start just in case. I didn't need one.)
-suck out as much coolant as you can
-without spraying brake cleaner in your oil pan wipe all oil off all of the "U" shaped part of the oil pan
-with a razor blade cut the old gasket where it goes between the block and the pan.
-clean the part of the gasket you just cut thoroughly with brake cleaner (spray it on a rag and wipe, you don't want to spray it in the oil pan.)
-make a piece of cork gasket to fit that U shaped part (it must be an exact fit to mate with the part of the old gasket you cut with the razor blade.)
-liberally coat the gasket with RTV (don't go crazy but you need to have enough on there especially at the part where the "U" shaped gasket you made meets the old gasket.)
-Make extra double sure that there isn't any oil on the mating surfaces.
-make an RTV bead on the timing cover replace the timing cover. (make sure -that the "U" shaped piece of gasket you made stays in place.)
-replace all the other stuff.
-drive

I did this repair last winter and still no leaks. I know it is a little hokey but it worked for me and I did it in one evening and the next afternoon.

 

Is this a 6.9?

That process sounds pretty reasonable to me. Some of the gasser front seal kits come with the cork gasket to go around the shaft side of the cover and the instructions pretty much detail what you said, but this was for internal seals and not the pry-out type. The removal of the radiator will certainly help.

My manual says it can be performed in the truck and you pry the front seal out, without having to remove the front cover.

So, for those with more wisdom and experience, are there any restrictions that govern this task? What I mean is why, with all the room, would they advise removing the engine to replace the seal?

 

I highly recommend not taking the timing cover off if you don't have to. I would be sure to put a few bolts back in the timing cover before you start prying on that seal so you don't break the gasket on the timing cover and pry gently that cover gets pretty flexy when you take the pump off. My situation was a little different because I broke the gasket on the timing cover and replaced the front seal while it was off just for good measure. Don't forget the speedy sleeve, it isnt a job you want to do twice.

My guess that removing the engine is suggested because about 75% of people probably break the gasket removing the water pump or prying the seal out and they want you to replace the oil pan gasket.