During my water pump replacement on my 94 F150 5.0L, two of the bolts broke. So, I am going to be pulling the timing cover so that I can get to one of them and drill it out of the block. I was looking at Autozone's website for a gasket set and they have several. I would like to get one of the Fel Pro sets they list but not sure which one to get. One comes with sleeve "n" seal and the other is without that. What is a sleeve "n" seal and do I need it? The other question is that both sets say they are for use only with a one piece oil pan gasket and the oil pan gasket must be replaced when replacing the timing cover gaskets. My Haynes manual says to cut the front of the oil pan gasket and says nothing about removing the oil pan or replacing the gasket. What's up with that? Any answers or other suggestions to make this go easier for me would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Stacy

 

I don't know what an N seal is but I should mention this- the timing gear set costs like $15, and a '94 could probably use a change by now. It sucks to have that go out and it's a lot of work to get that timing cover off. So do the timing chain at the same time and get it over with.

The timing cover does seal the front of the engine and then does a 90 deg to cover the last 2" or so of the oil pan's top surface. The gasket set I got corresponded exactly with the manual- there are 4 pcs. The gasket seal for the front of the engine, one little bit of cork gasket for each side of the short oil pan to tc area, and a rubber gasket thingy for the bend in the middle of the oil pan to tc. You do not drop the oil pan or replace its whole gasket.

You just squirt a bead of silicone on the 90 deg joint where the engine front turns into the oil pan. Works fine.

A set which says it is for a one-pc oil pan gasket sounds like they don't include the two little gasket pieces between the tc and the oil pan. You could do it with silicone, you could cut them out of the full oil pan gasket if you have one, but frankly I would just shop around for the correct set. The manual doesn't document pulling the oil pan and I can't imagine people wanting to complicate the job like that.

 

The sleeve n seal probably includes a repair sleeve that goes on the harmonic balancer. Your balancer will probably have a groove in it from the old seal, and this sleeve will go on the balancer to give your new seal a new surface to seal on. I agree with Dannym, replace the timing chain while you are that far into it.

As far as your bolts being broke off, this is pretty common on the 302's. Everyone that I have done, there was still some of the old bolt protruding from the block and all I had to do was put a little heat on the bolts and they came out fairly easy.

 

From my experience with the 5.0 When I cut the cork/rubber pan gasket from the oil pan surface I found it easier to just ust RTV Blue or better gasket maker. Trying to put new gasket sections on is nearly impossible. It is a real tight fit there trying to line up the newgasket sections and pushing the cover back on to the dowel guides. The replacement sections move and slide.

 

mvoeller2: So do you think I need the sleeve n seal?

12secondstang: That's probably why some people might drop or at least lower the oil pan.

all: My stock timing chain is a double roller right?

 

More that likely you will need a sleeve. Everyone that I've seen needs them because the seal cuts a groove in the balancer. On my 95 it had a single row timing chain, but I put a double row chain in. It will fit. And when I did mine, I didn't drop the pan at all, just remove the front two oil pan bolts so you can remove the timing cover. Also clean as much as dirt away from the timing chain cover are as possible so you don't drop any dirt in the oil pan. When I was cleaning the gasket off the block, I put rags down there to prevent dirt from getting in the oil. But I dropped the oil after I was done just to be safe.

 

You will not need to lower oil pan. There are actually 4 bolts holding the cover to the pan, 2-1/2" one on either side of the hump and 2-7/16". As far as the sleeve, When you get the balancer off you will know whether or not you will need the sleeve. I have never installed a sleeve and haven't ever had an issue. But I am sure that doesn't applies to everyone.
Yes, put a new double row chain while it is apart. A local parts store should have what you need from the Chain to the Timing Cover Set which will include all gaskets including pan, crank seal, and water pump gaskets for around $20 and $20 for the Chain.

Change the oil right after you are done putting it back together, you are bound to have gotten coolant as well as some debris in the pan just from taking it apart.


Let me know how it goes for ya.

 

Thanks for your anwsers and help. It will be a couple of days before I can get back to. I'll post back and let you guys know how it went.

Thanks,
Stacy

 

I dropped by Autozone today and rented their harmonic balancer puller. Before I get into this, I have a question. I see how this thing works to get it off but how do I get it back on? This tool and none of the other loan-a-tools in the Autozone catalog said anything about putting it back on. Do I just use the bolt and washer to push it back on or do I need to buy a tool or can I use the tool I rented somehow? I like to think ahead and work all this out before I dive in.

Thanks,
Stacy

 

All you will need to do is make sure it is lined up with the keyway then just start tightening it up. It will draw itself on. I think the torque as around 75-80 ft lbs but not positive. You will need to keep the motor from turning when applying full torque. I usually just install two of the pulley bolts and interlock a breaker bar into them the opposite way of the Torque wrench.

 

Sounds easy enough.

Thanks,
Stacy

 

Well, I finally finished the work on my truck. It didn't go without incident, though. The broken bolts came out easily with the bolt extractors from Sears. I used the ones that look like sockets that have little cutting edges on the inside. Worked great. I tried to use the sleeve n seal to get a smooth surface on the harmonic balancer, but it bent as I was pressing it on the shaft. So, I just pulled it off and trashed it. I hope I don't have any leaks in that area. Then, the ARP bolt kit that I bought from Summit for my engine didn't have the right bolts. Only 5 of the 15 worked. Most of them were too short by like a quarter inch and wouldn't grab any threads. So, I had to go to Napa and buy a couple of grade 8 bolts. Other than those things, everything went back together ok. I haven't driven the truck a long distance yet, but it seems to run fine. Thanks for everyone's help.

Thanks,
Stacy