Ok - trying to pin down the problem here, and running out of ideas.

'07 F350 Dually with the 6.0PSD - bone stock other than a CAI that the PO installed and I haven't replaced yet. FICM was replaced by dealer when truck was purchased about 2 years ago.

This problem has been going on for several months now, and with the holidays, and not driving it too much right now, I haven't had the time to mess with it.

Truck will start cold after extended cranking - usually around 10 seconds or so. Runs rough for a couple of seconds till everything gets lubed up, then purrs like a kitten.

If I shut the engine off for any reason, no start until its cold again.

Minimum time I've waited and been able to restart has been 3-4 hours. I haven't started it, then shut it down and immediately tried to restart it, but I know that after 5-10 minutes it wont restart - It spent a few hours in the home depot parking lot after I spent a few minutes inside buying a sheet of plywood.

I've read the notes about the HPOP and parking nose down - it does not matter how I park it, it will not start when warm.

Now- my edge cts currently is experiencing technical difficulties, so until I get that worked out (working on it) I have no way to read any of the ICP or FICM values, though the last time I checked them probably 8 months or so, they were fine.

I know that there isn't much that anyone can tell me until I can get some readings on the truck, but I'm going out of my mind here and just wondering if anyone has ever heard of an issue like this, or can think of anything that would cause this?

I ran the truck for 12 hours straight plowing snow a couple of weeks ago, and it ran like a champ - no issues at all, but I was scared to death to shut it down and get stuck! (cold as it was, I guess it would have cooled down quickly so that I could re-start it .

Once I get my edge cts fixed, I'll check the values for the FICM and ICP, but I'm about ready to just take it down to my diesel shop and eat the $150 diag fee.

Anyone have any ideas at all???

 

Culprits in ranked order:

Dummy Plugs
STC
Standpipes

Josh

 

You can take it by someplace like autozone and get it scanned free. Don't shut it off, just let it idle while you're there. I suspect you have an HPO leak, not necessarily an HPOP problem. The pumps are pretty dang good on the late model trucks.

 

No need to blow money on a diagnostic fee as Bullitt and NPCC have ya covered. The no start hot on the 05' and newer trucks are well documented and almost without exception they are one of the items mentioned by Bullitt. Since you are experiencing issues i would tackle everything he mentioned then you will have the most common issues resolved. You want to get the STC done before it completely fails and cracks the rear engine cover as it is a very costly repair that can be avoided by replacing a 60 dollar part.

 

Thanks for all of the quick replies!

While I have the tools to do the work, and there are enough write-ups about it that I'm sure I could figure it out, I don't have anywhere besides my driveway to do the work in. And with the temps what they are now, that's just not happening.

What am I looking at for replacing the STC, dummy plugs, and standpipes at the shop - $1200-$1500?

Also, I'm going to be trading this truck in within the next 2 months (main reason that I need to get this taken care of now) - obviously, it needs to be running without any problems when I trade it in, but I don't want to spend a bunch of money to bulletproof whats going to be someone else's motor (does that make me a jerk? ).

Should I just have the shop diagnose the problem, and just fix whatever that problem is? Obviously if I was keeping the truck, I'd get all 3 done while they're in there, but since I'm getting rid of it, can I really justify the extra expense that I wont be able to get back on the trade?

Thanks!

 

All 3 items would be $160 in parts and less than 4 hours labor IMHO

Josh

 

Thats not nearly as bad as I was thinking - so probably around $600 for everything.


Thanks guys!

 

An Indy shop might charge 6-8 hours labor for the procedure. Dummy plugs and standpipes are easily under 2 hours.

Turbo removal is 30-45 minutes. With the STC replacement about an hour.

It isn't a difficult job, but reattaching the Y-pipe gives people fits and also replacing the passenger side standpipe.

For me:

Remove air filter assembly
Remove CAC
Remove turbo
Remove GPCM, harness and passenger valve cover... R&R DP/SP
Install valve cover
Remove FICM
Remove driver's side valve cover R&R DP/SP
Proceed to HPOP cover
Remove HPOP R&R STC
Re-install everything with anti-seize on clamps etc

Josh

 

Holly Crap -

I just got a quote from my local diesel shop - they quoted me $750 labor just for the dummy plugs and standpipes.

$1650 labor to do dummy plugs, standpipes, and STC.

They did say that they can test to see which one is the problem, so I could just have them do whatever is needed instead of doing all of it. I'm looking to sell/trade-in the truck so don't wanna drop any more money on it than I need to.


I think I'm gonna call the dealer and see what they would charge - maybe I'll have a stroke and wont have to worry about it.

Thank I think I'll try and find some step-by-step directions on this and maybe just do it myself in my driveway. Maybe I'll just deal with the cold to save $1600.

 

If you want to save money you could purchase just the dummy plugs and just change those out.

STC fitting is more involved since the turbo needs removed.

Josh

 

Is there any test that I can run to determine what specifically is causing the no warm-start condition? How do I test the STC/DP/SP?


Thanks!

 

You'll air check the system thru the ICP sensor location in the passenger valve cover.

IMHO, you'll spend more for air fittings than a set of DP's. 2 hours and those are done. If the problem persists move to the STC.

I'm not a proponent of parts chasing or throwing parts, but that method would be the quickest.


Josh

 

Was this issue ever resolved? I replaced every o-ring, plugs, stc fitting, etc. on an '05 last week. Gonna do injector o-rings next. Really aggravating!!!