Ok, so far I'm trying to listen to you guys. Thanks again. I'm leaving the gaskets/bolts alone, I'm not doing the EGR delete YET....but I do plan on it down the road if the SCT doesn't shut it down enough for me.
I ordered the blue screen and SCT SF3, and tonight I ordered the scangauge II. None of which have been delivered yet...But they are in route!

Exhaust....I showed the hack job of an exhaust the bubba put on here before me. That's gotta go. I can only imagine how restrictive that bad boy is.
So my question is I like the look of the dual exhaust. I am not into stacks...sorry. And I'd like to keep the duals.

Is there a brand to stay AWAY from? Is there a brand that is an exceptional quality and price?

And lastly, is there a vendor that stands out for price and customer service?

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

Diamond Eye puts out a very nice dual exhaust at an easily affordable price.

 

Got the SCT hooked up today.
Put on the street tune first. Very impressed.
Put on the performance tune next...still grinning.

Haven't been able to find exact numbers for what each tune gave...
finally found it, so for others:

DYNO RESULTS AND HORSEPOWER GAINS FOR SCT PRELOADED TUNES:

• Performance Tune (120 HP & 248 lb-ft TQ)
• Street Tune (85 HP & 130 lb-ft TQ)
• Towing 65 Tune (65 HP & 75 lb-ft TQ)
• Towing 50 Tune (50 HP & 55 lb-ft TQ)

So starting off at 325HP / 570ftlbs (per international's website:
6.0L Power Stroke Specs )

Puts you at -HP / ft lbs torque:
Towing 50 Tune = 375 / 625
Towing 65 Tune = 390 / 645
Street Tune = 410 / 700
Performance Tune = 445 / 818

Looking into exhaust now... Gotta get that opened up.

 

Sorry, but that's not how it works. Navistar numbers are measured at the flywheel. SCT numbers are at the rear wheels. Adding numbers off boxes means absolutely NOTHING in the world of RWHP. You can literally spend THOUSANDS of dollars in mods and add nothing in horsepower so PLEASE don't fall in that trap. The only way to truly know what your truck does is to put it on a dyno (and even those will ALL read differently).

 

LOL...ya know, after I sent that last night, I had the same thought. There are so many variables to the equation...
But I decided to just leave it as is, because it's ballpark figures and I figured people would realize that.

Elevation, gearing, temperature, engine condition, other mods....bla bla bla...

All those factors come into play, and the only true report is a dyno...I know.
Engine Crank HP number will be higher by anywhere from 10-20%. RWHP will always be lower. I read somewhere that stock 6.0's rated at 325 hp consistently lay down 275-285 rwhp. So that will give some better base numbers.

Plus all I really care about is the TQ...And even at that, I'm not looking to achieve any specific target number. I'm actually more focused on economy at this point. The power is a perk. I'm not racing circle track, so I don't care about HP. I travel the interstate in my truck at 70, lower if hauling... But I like to get there quick!
And on that note, I am half tempted to back the tune back down to the street tune, or even look into the affects of the other tunes like the lock 123. Because with the performance tune, it's bringing out the rodder in me too much! lol!

...now the Corvette, THAT'S a different story!!

 

When you are looking at exhaust, if you want it to last, go stainless, not aluminized. Further,p to get the best benefit, you need the down pipe upgraded from a 3.00" to a 3.50", the rest should be 4.00 inch. Not much sense in bigger than that. Dual set ups like MBRP and others mentioned on here are all great options. You definitely need to open that up running tunes. I would love to change mine out. Also, do you have a pyrometer, in your exhaust pre turbo is best but when you are doing exhaust a post turbo bung can be welded in and plugged for later use. Since you are there and spending money, it's easy to do before install. The exhaust can be done in the driveway, but it is apparently difficult to change the down pipe without a lift. Your experience may vary.

 

If there is any kind of pyro sensor, it's stock (doubtful). I haven't done anything in there yet.

Does the scangauge II come with a pyro sensor? I don't know. But I do know that I want to monitor that no matter what. Even stock config, you need to know that for towing I would imagine.

 

Sg2 does not accept external gauges. It only reads PIDs from the OBD2 port.

 

You are going to need a pyro gauge and EGT sensor. Since you have a sg2, try an A piller pod for this, as it can't be done on sg2. I agree for towing, it's helpful, stock not as critical, but for any tuning, you need to watch it, and you need to take your foot out. Some tunes run really hot.