This morning I fired up my 7.3 excursion @ -9 air temp. I cycled the glow plugs twice and she fired right up! I was surprised.

There was one problem. after idling for about 5 minutes i noticed i was puking diesel all over the place. The fuel bowl valve was puking BAD! Drove to ford dealer, picked up new one, put it in and no more puking :-) Must have cracked

Note- driving around all day today the ebpv was closed and the truck was a real dog all day.

My question is if i get, say a DP, will it fix the EBPV being closed after warm up in cold temps?

Thanks for the input.

 

Are you sure the truck was really warm? The EBPV is supposed to keep the truck from getting too cold in weather like the recent Arctic blast. I had a recent drive where the EBPV came on after I had been driving for hours. It surprised me, so I looked at the overhead and I didn't realize until then that the temperature had fallen 40 degrees from the last time I checked.

I am nowhere near the real cold stuff, but I monitor the Engine Oil Temperature (that temp gauge on the dash is just to let you know when you can turn on the cab heat and that's about it). It takes a long time in these temps for the truck to warm up above a minimum temperature of 150 degrees F (if it reaches that temp at all) before the EBPV is deactivated. If the engine can't reach that temperature, you really don't want to disable the one thing that's keeping the truck from cooling down more.

That being said... yes, a tuner can disable an EBPV, or you can reach in and disconnect the control arm and wire the valve open. I wouldn't.

 

I cant be certain because i don't have gauges yet, but I was driving it all day. I never shut it off as i was running errands for 6 hours today. I suppose it could be closed because of the temp not coming up. I was a high of 4 while i was driving today.

Hopefully it will open up tomorrow as the high is going to be 20!

 

If I remember correctly the EBPV is controlled by Engine oil temp and Intake Air temp. When its this cold, it takes alot to get both of those sensors to say "OK We're warm"

 

That's about when mine triggered. You can try cardboard in the grill... it should at least help the transmission.

 

Trans temp comes up faster than the engine. Is that normal or just the lie-o-meter on dash? trans shifts and runs great! Its a built trans done by previous owner.

So my big question is if i get a tuner will it open the ebpv sooner in cold temps? Say Like a dp, it has a high idle with ebpv on, and then when i switch to say 80eco does it open back up no mater what the outside air temp?

 

I'm having the same kind of issue. I love my EBPV when the truck is idling warming up in the AM, but not for the first 20 minutes cruising at light throttle.
Maybe someone from DP can chime in? I'd like to know if you can program my F6 to keep the valve at idle, but turn it off while driving.
OP, hopefully I'm not jacking your thread.

 

No problem, it was a great question! I would love to know the answer. If the DP (or any) tuner can do this I might splurge on a tuner!

 

Brian at BTS fixed mine. He put it in the trash can. 😜

 

Yes, it can be done by the tuner.

The transmission temp gauge on the dash is worse than the coolant temp gauge, if it says the transmission is warm before the engine. Have you ever had the transmission slip on the highway when first starting out? You're driving along and the RPMs are higher than normal at highway speeds. You step on the throttle and the tach goes gazelle, while the speedometer moseys along like a cow following the shade. It will do this until the transmission temp reaches about 55-60 degrees F, then you'll feel the lock and see the tach drop. My engine oil reaches about 150 degrees F by this time... depending on how hard I push the torque converter. The slipping torque converter generates more heat, that's why the tuning lets it slip until a minimum temp is reached.