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So my rear window leaks significantly. I have read threads on sealing them without removing the rear window, but I watched an instructional video showing how simple it is to remove the rear window and frame and decided to just remove and reseal the frame to the body.
My questions:
Is 3m window weld the stuff to use?
If so, when applying it, do I need to do anything more to the surface beyond making sure it is clean? Does it need to be cleaned or prepped in any way with any particular chemical or can it just be cleaned with water and then dried?
How long to cure?
When curing does it need to stay under the carport and out of weather?
Will the low temps (high 20's to low 40's) make a difference on curing?
I haven't been able to track down the leaks exactly, I just find my backseat and carpet wet after rain(plus rusty backseat gun...). Is it likely that there may be a leak between the window frame and the glass itself that wouldn't be fixed by resealing the frame to the body?
If so, how would I fix that type of leak?
I would like to not have my truck out of commission very long, but I am home for Christmas break and many repairs will be done that have been put off since I am living on campus, so if it takes a while it is okay.
You don't state the year of your vehicle.
...with sliding window or without?
I have a 1997 F150, single cab, sliding window...
Replaced the rear window four years ago for the very same reason.
My local Safelite (former Cindy Rowe) stated that Ford had a design issue that allowed the window frame to crack, thus water ingress...
I paid $350 for the new split window, installed.
I say just replace it and be done with it...mine hasn't leaked since...
Why patch it when you can fix the root cause...
I am so sorry, I am usually so good about that, I guess I just got ahead of myself.
2000 F-150 Supercab 5.4 4x4 with the sliding rear window.
I can't afford to have the window replaced, so I am going to repair to the best of my abilities. The 3m stuff seemed like the most logical stuff to use, but I could be very wrong.
90% of the leaks are caused by a factory screw up in installing the butyl seal. This is not "glue" it is more like "caulking". You can go it Auto Zone or similar a buy a 15 ft roll. It looks something with the foam door seal you get at Wal Mart to put around the house front door.. but this is rubber, not foam. You get a rubber seal maybe 1/4 inch thick and 3/4 inch wide. Its like double stick tape. CLean the window edge and wipe it off clean. Stick the butyl seal onto the window edge, then set the window up against the cab wall. Tighten the dozen screws and it will compress the butyl... That simple... When you take the window off and look at the old seal, you can see they obviously did not lap or seal the ends together--- thats where it leaks.
Okay, so after a water hose test it appears all the water is coming from the bottom left corner of the slider with a tiny bit on the top left. (When looking at ot from the inside)
Also the rubber or plastic track the window slides in moves a little bit when the window being slid open. I don't know if that is related or not.
i do not plan to reseal the whole window now, but do not know how to fix the leaky slider.
im having trouble seeing your photo. If the leak is in the window track, i might pull out the track and reglue it with RTV or something to tighten it up.. IF the leak is the cab wall around the bolt area-- thats the rubber bytle seal.
Its around the slide window. It appears my body to window seal is good based on my water hose tests. i think i am going to just start filling holes on the rubber around the slide window with black caulk of some type until it doesn't leak anymore and the window still slides smoothly. I don't think it could get too much worse by doing that.
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