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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 12:16 AM
  #1  
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Exclamation NSS Help Needed

I have a 1999 F-350 SD Lariat, recently I have been converting the column shift to a B & M Hammer shifter which has been completed all but a few minor things to sure up and I'm hoping someone could help and save me some fuses lol. The NSS could not stay on the tranny (4R100) so I needed to remove the plug leaving me with nine (9) wires, I have so far located and properly placed Neutral safety and the reverse lights onto the shifter totaling (4) wires leaving (5) wires unaccounted for so upon taking it for a test run I have noticed once ratcheted into 1st gear it still shifts itself although tranny is locked in 1st now I'm assuming some of these wires must run the (overdrive) option and is why it is shifting itself like it is still in drive, so my question is can anybody help with how I need to tie these remaining wires together so it knows what gear it is in and will shift manually as designed. Your help is greatly appreciated
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 06:40 AM
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You need to put the TRS (Transmission Range Sensor) back on. That's what you call the NSS. All those wires are what the computer uses to know where the shifter is located. You can't tie those wires together to make it work. Different wires need to be connected for each shifter position. That's why you need the TRS to do that.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 11:07 AM
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Why would you do this conversion in the first place?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ashleyroachclip
Why would you do this conversion in the first place?
Why Not?? were all not here to decide what someone should and shouldn't do and I like the option of having my gears right beside me without reaching up etc. Check some of my pics I built/customized a toy and am bored with the norm.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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I was not judging you, just wondered what was the motive .
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ashleyroachclip
I was not judging you, just wondered what was the motive .
Sorry if I sounded harsh were all kool I am just looking to make my truck different from the rest and have always wanted to build a truck after doing many race/drag cars and enjoy the challenge of reversing technology because it bugs me they make things more complicated than they need to be.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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I understand.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 01:17 AM
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So you put the floor shifter on and hook up the cable and done why the wire issues? As Mark said leave the selector switch on the tranny hooked up to the orig cable..
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 01:58 AM
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Worked some more on it today and have gotten it to stay in first and shift to second on command but am now missing drive, with a few wires left I hope to have it sorted out tomorrow and shifting the way I want. Also it never did stay in first yesterday until making some different connections today so I am slowly sorting out what each one of these wires control thus trying to avoid replacing the TRS which would be a pain in the *** as the shaft is not long enough to accommodate both TRS and B&M linkage and I would need to weld a shaft onto it and change my entire setup/angles for cables etc. A big help has been splitting the TRS in half and at least getting a ballpark of the connections being made as you can see what the slider is making for connections in park through first. Thank you for your input mark and I have taken that into consideration if all else fails, but I am making progress without it so far but certainly not enjoying myself lol.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 07:17 PM
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After much time back at the drawing board I had to cave into marks suggestions and return a new TRS to the shaft, there was a way to do it but would require switches next to shifter and that just wasn't gonna happen lol. So instead I had to grind the nipple etc of from the existing upright arm on the tranny and drill a hole where that nipple used to be so that the quick disconnect on the B&M could now go there and reverse the cable so it would pull from the front of the tranny instead of the prior rear pull. 99f350sd that stock cable is completely different than the one supplied with the shifter your ends will not adapt to fit. Also decided I didn't like how the shifter was inside so am rebuilding that at the same time to be more eye appealing. Screw thrush mufflers they sure don't make them like they used to, what a wast of effort and time after removing them 1st time to remove packing sounded garbage removed again and took out the baffle still garbage those mufflers just don't have any hope left so I have disassembled the exhaust again and have decided to go straight pipe same design only no mufflers and will achieve the sound I was shooting for the first time.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 07:45 PM
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Thanks for getting back.. I was under the impression that the shifter was for your application which would have meant cables brackets would have fit etc...Good to hear you are gaining on it.
Reminds me of my buick into my 84 toyota...Had to make all kinds of stuff.


Dick
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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Luckily I was able to use the old sorta square bracket that holds the cable about 7-8" prior to attaching to the shifter the hole was a bit bigger than needed but just used a couple over-sized washers on each side and it did the trick and I still can adjust the length if needed once I start the final adjustments again. Kinda curious what you did regarding your Buick/Toyota. Thanks for checking back
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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Put a buick 3.8l v6 with turbo 350 into my 84 toyota 4x4..I fuel injected it and used a programmable computer to manage the fuel inj. 4" lift etc etc...rusted to pieces in 2003 or so.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 99f350sd
Put a buick 3.8l v6 with turbo 350 into my 84 toyota 4x4..I fuel injected it and used a programmable computer to manage the fuel inj. 4" lift etc etc...rusted to pieces in 2003 or so.
Yup more than a few headaches in that build i bet
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 11:42 PM
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here is a pic of the 4R100 original linkage that had to be converted to pull backwards. These brackets are not adjustable and can only be removed by dropping the trans pan and unbolting from the inside to remove.
 

Last edited by Cristolize; Jan 2, 2014 at 11:48 PM. Reason: additional info
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