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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:21 PM
  #16  
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
Originally Posted by Ordnance
I'm interested. What do headers have to do with starter failure? Heat causes them to die?
I've seen guys make heat shields out of some tin roofing material.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:43 PM
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
Originally Posted by michellehmcclure
The 77 F250 has eaten starters since I can remember. My dad had to replace it so many times. My son has replace it 3 times in the last 6 months. Any one have the same problem or any ideas!!
What engine / trans? Just an idea .... but as I recall, 300-I6 uses different starters for Auto vs Man trans while 351M or 400 use pretty much same for both auto or manual.

Nothing to do with '77 except it's what made me think of it, later in the 80s when you could get 351 Windsor with auto or manual, the nose and drive for the starter differs between the two and the wrong starter will have a short life. We had a customer who brought back two starters in a row for replacement, when I asked if auto, he said "Yeah".... then he said it didn't make a difference. So I asked him "Is it a automatic transmission or manual" and then he said "Manual" .... (or vice versa, I forget now.
Catalog said it made a difference and his starters were showing it.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 07:07 AM
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I've seen guys make heat shields out of some tin roofing material.
I was thinking Header wrap Should be enough.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 08:04 AM
  #19  
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OP never replied whether he had headers or not. I am thinking heat.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 02:29 PM
  #20  
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From: Sandy Eggo
Originally Posted by Ordnance
I was thinking Header wrap Should be enough.
bad idea around the starter. if anything it will hold the heat onto it, or hold moisture (water, oil etc) on it. i tried this solution once, it just made a mess of things.

heat SHIELDs are better, because they will allow air flow over the starter and won't trap anything. doesn't need to be much, just something to reflect the heat back the other way
 
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 08:36 PM
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Stay away from cheap made in china crap, I have very little faith on garbage sold via discout store such as Orieleys, Cragens etc
 
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 03:13 PM
  #22  
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After we fixed the steering valves and put a high torque starter on we are having problems again. Recently had some tough driving and was forced off the road and stalled in the process. When I went to start it after the starter would turn but it would not kick out. I tried about 5 times. Then I waited about 20 minutes and when i turned the key it started right away. Today we parked and went inside. When i came back out the starter turned and wouldn't kick out again. We popped the clutch to get it started. When i got home I turned it off then i went and tried to start it again and it turned on right away. Does anyone have any ideas?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 01:22 PM
  #23  
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I would answer FMC400's questions. He is a wizard at electrical stuff.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 03:51 PM
  #24  
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I thought we solved the problem when we put the high torc starter on. I has worked since Jan. But it has not been driving since end of April so…. It spins but does not engage. We took it off and the teeth look good inside. The truck does not have headers. This truck was my father in law's and he had the same problem and just kept trading out starters. I know there were some electrical issues when he had it. We replaced a lot of wires because they were melted. Not sure it that matters. When it would not work yesterday after we popped the clutch we drove it down to the high performance shop where we bought it at. They said to take it off and bring it back to see if it will be warrantied. He mentioned that it my be the solenoid. Any Ideas?? Here are pics maybe it helps!



 
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 05:19 PM
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We are having the same issue on our tractor , not enough voltage is reaching the starter to kick in the solenoid . If we use the ol screwdriver trick it cranks over just fine. Make sure you dont have voltage drop from the key to starter , or excessive resistance.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 07:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by fmc400
Again, please describe what "stops working" means. Does this mean it grinds, or spins freely without engaging the ring gear or flywheel? Telling us the bendix doesn't work is what you believe to be the failure mechanism but doesn't describe any of the actual symptoms that could explain why the bendix doesn't work.
The Bendix is not fully engaging to the fly wheel. On the cheep auto zone ones when we bring it back the teeth on the start were torn up. The high torc one doesn't have that issue.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by michellehmcclure
The Bendix is not fully engaging to the fly wheel. On the cheep auto zone ones when we bring it back the teeth on the start were torn up. The high torc one doesn't have that issue.
It still could be the issue I described above or your getting the wrong starter. Has the trans or flywheel been changed from stock ? Im leaning more towards as electric problem as it seams it works when its cold .
 
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 09:17 PM
  #28  
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One thing comes to mind. Bad teeth on the ring gear/flex plate. Because of compression, a V8 engine will always stop in one of four positions, a 6 cylinder, one of three. If the teeth are bad in only one area you won't see it unless you turn the engine one full turn while you're checking the teeth.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 12:53 AM
  #29  
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I know the transmission is the same not sure about the fly wheel.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 10:17 AM
  #30  
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It is a manual transmission..
 
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