Stock fuel system
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 31
From: OKC, OK
It has been said there is a screen in there but the Ford pump is the best for our trucks. Read up on Tuglys threads. He practically killed himself researching pumps. Add Racor ps120 before the stock pump and it will catch anything that would plug the pump.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,500
Likes: 14
From: South Carolina
This is not an invitation for a fight. Just airing some thoughts.
Unless there is a separating definition you are promoting, why go from the word filter to strainer? They are essentially the same. You either filter fine or you filter course ( we are talking the micron range-in case anyone wants to visualize, there are one million microns in a meter.)
i have yet to find one as robust as ours...
...Our pump was specifically engineered (by Bosch, for Ford) from a blank sheet of paper to stand on it's own, delivering daunting doses of diesel...
...but this particular pump is one of the most impressive bits of engineering I've seen...
...Our pump was specifically engineered (by Bosch, for Ford) from a blank sheet of paper to stand on it's own, delivering daunting doses of diesel...
...but this particular pump is one of the most impressive bits of engineering I've seen...
I have higher expectations of my pump. I expect it to take on vo. Bosch fails at it. I killed several expensive Bosch pumps years ago. To me, they are junk.
I use the (made in USA) airtex E2236. I purchased a extra pump, but have never had to use it.
I keep it like so many of us keep a spare cps
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 31
From: OKC, OK
The filter vs the strainer is how it makes sense in MY head. The screen is a strainer. The one on top of the engine (paper) is a filter. Yes essentially they do the same thing.
As far as the pump goes I cannot comment on anything veggie based. All I know is Rich spent numerous hours researching them and he found that the stock bosh was best for HIM. There are many people on here still running their stock pump. Some with over 250k.
As far as the pump goes I cannot comment on anything veggie based. All I know is Rich spent numerous hours researching them and he found that the stock bosh was best for HIM. There are many people on here still running their stock pump. Some with over 250k.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 31
From: OKC, OK
a device having holes punched in it or made of crossed wires for separating solid matter from a liquid.
The definition of a strainer above....according to google that is. The end all, final answer to any question.
*note the sarcasm*
The definition of a strainer above....according to google that is. The end all, final answer to any question.
*note the sarcasm*
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
The filter vs the strainer is how it makes sense in MY head. The screen is a strainer. The one on top of the engine (paper) is a filter. Yes essentially they do the same thing.
As far as the pump goes I cannot comment on anything veggie based. All I know is Rich spent numerous hours researching them and he found that the stock bosh was best for HIM. There are many people on here still running their stock pump. Some with over 250k.
As far as the pump goes I cannot comment on anything veggie based. All I know is Rich spent numerous hours researching them and he found that the stock bosh was best for HIM. There are many people on here still running their stock pump. Some with over 250k.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
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Got Data?
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,248
Likes: 1,381
From: Lake Stevens, WA
For those of us with a spin-on filter from strickly diesel or similar, there appears to be a couple of options. While it comes with the BF1212, The BF1252 filters less fine particles - maybe it will flow more? I'm hoping it's enough for AC sticks. If not, I'll likely go for the Racor.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Kentucky
The reason I'm asking if there is a strainer on the stock fuel pump is, the filters in the tank were clogged.
Is it possible the strainer, if there is one in the stock pump, could be clogged, and if so, how hard is it to service?
I'm losing pressure when the pedal meets the metal. I basically have the same set up as Rich, so the stock pump should be fine.
Is it possible the strainer, if there is one in the stock pump, could be clogged, and if so, how hard is it to service?
I'm losing pressure when the pedal meets the metal. I basically have the same set up as Rich, so the stock pump should be fine.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
The reason I'm asking if there is a strainer on the stock fuel pump is, the filters in the tank were clogged.
Is it possible the strainer, if there is one in the stock pump, could be clogged, and if so, how hard is it to service?
I'm losing pressure when the pedal meets the metal. I basically have the same set up as Rich, so the stock pump should be fine.
Is it possible the strainer, if there is one in the stock pump, could be clogged, and if so, how hard is it to service?
I'm losing pressure when the pedal meets the metal. I basically have the same set up as Rich, so the stock pump should be fine.
I do see significant pressure dip when Mat and Pedal embrace. I set my gauge alarm at 45 PSI and I do occasionally see a quick flash of the alarm, then it's gone... while our lovebirds keep on makin' bacon. The gauge settles in at about 50 PSI. I believe the reason for the momentary dip is the fuel has to overcome the inertia in the line. To explain that better: The fuel is flowing at xyz feet per minute, then the sticks suck on the straw... and the fuel has to speed up in the line. The pump needs a second to catch up. If I lowered the pressure on the regulator to 55 PSI, the fuel would already be flowing faster, and I wouldn't get the big momentary dip in pressure when I get all happy-feet-n-stuff.
The procedure for clearing the pump (that I've read on the forum) is to blow air backwards through it while the fuel intake line feeds into a bucket. If that doesn't clear the low-pressure problem, then it may be time to scrutinize the rest of the design (like type and size of the fittings).
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
That reminds me... I forgot to mention something. Pay no attention to those big GPH numbers... the are for open port. Also... make sure it's not LPH (Liters Per Hour). We don't run our trucks at zero PSI on the fuel system. Once you go up on pressure, the flow drops quickly. There are several items that play Tug-of War with pumps - flow, line restriction, lift, pressure, and amps. If you had a pump moving 300 GPH at 60 PSI, you'd blow a fuel line (and a fuse) somewhere - the factory lines are too small to handle that, and the amperage would be 5 times the factory pump.
GPH ratings alone can also be a sales "trick". I remember when vacuum cleaners used to tout "15 amps" on the box. Big whoop. How does that convert to inches of water for suction? Pumps are engineered for flow or pressure, and they oppose each other. High-flowing pumps with the same amps will die a horrible death when trying to build 60 PSI. High-pressure pumps with the same amps can't flow at the delivery a chipped truck wants... let alone bigger sticks. What we need for our system is balance between flow, pressure and amps.
If a pump is going to blow my hair back (with me being bald, this leaves an undesirable image stuck in your head), I want a graph. I want it to show GPH (or LPH), amps, and pressure... and how they all change in relation to each other. I also want to see (in print) if it's rated for diesel, and what the expected life cycle is. I saw one bad-*** pump that had impressive numbers, and it was rated for diesel - I found it on the Bosch racing site. Careful scrutiny of the brochure showed it was rated for 500 hours of use... that's racing for ya.
Here is what I'm talking about on a pump that was disqualified because it's for gas only (advertised as 255 Liters Per Hour):
GPH ratings alone can also be a sales "trick". I remember when vacuum cleaners used to tout "15 amps" on the box. Big whoop. How does that convert to inches of water for suction? Pumps are engineered for flow or pressure, and they oppose each other. High-flowing pumps with the same amps will die a horrible death when trying to build 60 PSI. High-pressure pumps with the same amps can't flow at the delivery a chipped truck wants... let alone bigger sticks. What we need for our system is balance between flow, pressure and amps.
If a pump is going to blow my hair back (with me being bald, this leaves an undesirable image stuck in your head), I want a graph. I want it to show GPH (or LPH), amps, and pressure... and how they all change in relation to each other. I also want to see (in print) if it's rated for diesel, and what the expected life cycle is. I saw one bad-*** pump that had impressive numbers, and it was rated for diesel - I found it on the Bosch racing site. Careful scrutiny of the brochure showed it was rated for 500 hours of use... that's racing for ya.
Here is what I'm talking about on a pump that was disqualified because it's for gas only (advertised as 255 Liters Per Hour):
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
From having just gone inside the tank again and torn down a stock Ford pump, here is what I know to exist in the OEM setup.
There is a very coarse screen in the pickup foot inside the tank, something along the lines of 1/8" openings, which is nice to not restrict flow while keeping line-plugging contaminants from getting into the line.
If you have not done the in-tank mods, the pickup assembly has a screen inside of it as well. I do not recall the mesh size of this particular screen. Conversely, if you have done the in-tank mods, this screen no longer exists.
Inside the suction of the stock pump is another fine screen, and I have the one taken from my son's "almost dead" pump, so I'll pop it under my magnifying light and get a mesh count when I do the rest of the tear down pictures.