Heater/thermostat issue?
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Great northwest
Heater/thermostat issue?
So this is the only ford that I have ever owned that will not cook you out of the cab. I have always said it was because it was a crew cab.
Today on the way to work I noticed the temp gauge just barely into the low side of the bracket. So I am thinking that this is the cause, my t-stat is opening early and the truck never really gets warm, so the heater does not work very well at all.
Here in the northwest the temps do not get down to the low teens, single didgets very often, but they did this past week.
I have no aftermarket anything on my truck, except a small lift kit. No extra gauges or anything else to go by. But the trans gauge warms up to the center of the gauge.
Thanks
Doug
Today on the way to work I noticed the temp gauge just barely into the low side of the bracket. So I am thinking that this is the cause, my t-stat is opening early and the truck never really gets warm, so the heater does not work very well at all.
Here in the northwest the temps do not get down to the low teens, single didgets very often, but they did this past week.
I have no aftermarket anything on my truck, except a small lift kit. No extra gauges or anything else to go by. But the trans gauge warms up to the center of the gauge.
Thanks
Doug
I'm hitting easy street
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,395
Likes: 27
From: Central Oregon
To be absolutely sure, you would need some way to read the temps.
Short of that, from what you describe sounds like the T stat is stuck open. When they fail, they fail in the open position.
My 04 will roast you out of the cab, no matter the outside temps.
Might be time to ask Santa for some gauges! Scangauge II was just on sale the other day for, I think $120.
There is the Torque APP for Android phones that is pretty cheap also.
Short of that, from what you describe sounds like the T stat is stuck open. When they fail, they fail in the open position.
My 04 will roast you out of the cab, no matter the outside temps.
Might be time to ask Santa for some gauges! Scangauge II was just on sale the other day for, I think $120.
There is the Torque APP for Android phones that is pretty cheap also.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 84
My crew cab diesel will roast you out so will my boss'. We were at 4* here yesterday morning and I had to unzip the coat and remove the hat within 3-4 miles. It gets nice and warm. It goes farther tha. Just creature comfort I the engine is getting up to full temp it doesn't run as Effiecient getting worse fuel mileage.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 144
Likes: 9
From: Central Oregon
Same issue for me. Oil temp doesn't get above 173, coolant temp not above 170. Just ordered a new t-stat. Guess the good thing is the difference in temps is never more than 6 degrees. (usually only a couple degrees apart).
I should say same issue as far as low coolant/oil temps. Heater works fine.
I should say same issue as far as low coolant/oil temps. Heater works fine.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,833
Likes: 4
From: Jefferson, Iowa
I would flush out the heater core also. It will probably do more than the stat. An easy test is warm up the truck engine and turn the heat on high. Then feel the 2 coolant lines going to the hc. If the return line is cold either replace or flush the heater core. If both are hot check your blend door.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Check your coolant temp with a digital gauge first, if you are not getting to 185* plus! then it's more likely a weak thermostat. Also, consider a winter front for colder temps, and short trips, diesels have a lot of cooling capacity, it takes longer to warm up twice the coolant and 3 times the block, especially colder temps and idling. The coolant gauge is a dummy light, it hits mid point on the temp gauge at about 140* on mine and stays at that spot till about 210*, it only goes above that to the top of huge range at about 221*. My trans at the normal mid spot is 120* all the way up over 200*. Then it goes into the yellow about 240. That's why lots of us have scan gauge, outlook monitor, ect.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Great northwest
I will locate the heater hoses and do that test. And then change the t-stat, and flush the system, and heater core.
I did place a little cardboard in front of the radiator, and it helped a little with heat. I think it is time for a coolant change anyway. I believe it still has the factory stuff in it, or at least Ford stuff. It is the gold color.
My drives are almost all 30+ minutes on the highway, and it is just getting luke warm air.
I wonder if this is covered under the warranty? I will have to look into that as well.
I did place a little cardboard in front of the radiator, and it helped a little with heat. I think it is time for a coolant change anyway. I believe it still has the factory stuff in it, or at least Ford stuff. It is the gold color.
My drives are almost all 30+ minutes on the highway, and it is just getting luke warm air.
I wonder if this is covered under the warranty? I will have to look into that as well.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,246
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From: Houston, Texas
Had the same problem with mine not too long ago...
I the truck would warm up, but it wouldn't get much past 180 degrees, it would actually hang around the 170s on cold days. I swapped the thermostat and now even in 30 degree weather, I'm running 190 on oil and coolant temps. I actually have to turn off my heater sometimes...
I the truck would warm up, but it wouldn't get much past 180 degrees, it would actually hang around the 170s on cold days. I swapped the thermostat and now even in 30 degree weather, I'm running 190 on oil and coolant temps. I actually have to turn off my heater sometimes...
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Great northwest
Ok, After a bunch of other car issues I am back at this one.
It has never had much airflow out of the heater. Today I removed the fan thinking some creature may have made a bed there. No luck. But I did find water in by the recirculation door. Is there a drain there? I cleaned the water up.
The fan is fine, nothing in it, and you can hear it change speeds when changing the control.
I next pulled the cover off of the heater core. It was nice and warm, but almost no air coming through it.
Read a comment about a clogged evaporator or something like that? I was thinking about pulling the heater core and checking behind it as well?
with the blend door at middle there is air coming back to the front side of the heater core. But at full heat, almost nothing getting through it from the engine side.
what is causing this, and how do I fix it?
It has never had much airflow out of the heater. Today I removed the fan thinking some creature may have made a bed there. No luck. But I did find water in by the recirculation door. Is there a drain there? I cleaned the water up.
The fan is fine, nothing in it, and you can hear it change speeds when changing the control.
I next pulled the cover off of the heater core. It was nice and warm, but almost no air coming through it.
Read a comment about a clogged evaporator or something like that? I was thinking about pulling the heater core and checking behind it as well?
with the blend door at middle there is air coming back to the front side of the heater core. But at full heat, almost nothing getting through it from the engine side.
what is causing this, and how do I fix it?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Great northwest
SO I have flushed the coolant to change the t-stat, and removed the heater core.
Lots of air without the heater core, not much with it installed.
I can see through the heater core if I hold it up to the light.
The core is not leaking, and is getting warm. Just on heat there is little air actually making it through the heater core. What a pain to remove.
So Can I clean this? or just replace it? I can not see anything else being an issue. The fins on the core seem to be much closer than those on the evaporator.
Thanks
Lots of air without the heater core, not much with it installed.
I can see through the heater core if I hold it up to the light.
The core is not leaking, and is getting warm. Just on heat there is little air actually making it through the heater core. What a pain to remove.
So Can I clean this? or just replace it? I can not see anything else being an issue. The fins on the core seem to be much closer than those on the evaporator.
Thanks
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