Alarm install help
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Alarm install help
I have a 1999 Econoline camper, and I'm trying to install a Viper alarm.
Instruction manual here:
Download Viper_3105V_Installation_Guide.pdf for free - EbookBrowsee.net - Ebook Search & Free Ebook Downloads
Wiring Diagram here:
1997-2003*Ford*Econoline*Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram
I've followed the wiring diagram, I cut off the relay off of the Ground When Armed wire because I read somewhere I didn't need it for a basic install with no add ons, the violet to the black wire off of the door pin, and I spliced the door trigger input and the instant trigger input wires together to the green wire coming off the door open/close pin (can anyone verify this is correct? These need to be spliced to a wire that goes to ground when door is opened). I've ran into a couple hiccups with the lock/unlock function. The alarm function works, but the doors will not lock/unlock. I checked the driver side kick panel, and I found two pink wires, I don't remember the color stripe, but one had 12vDC when I hit the lock button, and one had 12vDC when I hit the unlock button, so I spliced the Viper green wire to the one that had 12v when lock was pressed, and the Viper blue wire when unlock was pressed. Did I splice to the wrong wires, should the Viper green and blue wires be swapped?
Instruction manual here:
Download Viper_3105V_Installation_Guide.pdf for free - EbookBrowsee.net - Ebook Search & Free Ebook Downloads
Wiring Diagram here:
1997-2003*Ford*Econoline*Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram
I've followed the wiring diagram, I cut off the relay off of the Ground When Armed wire because I read somewhere I didn't need it for a basic install with no add ons, the violet to the black wire off of the door pin, and I spliced the door trigger input and the instant trigger input wires together to the green wire coming off the door open/close pin (can anyone verify this is correct? These need to be spliced to a wire that goes to ground when door is opened). I've ran into a couple hiccups with the lock/unlock function. The alarm function works, but the doors will not lock/unlock. I checked the driver side kick panel, and I found two pink wires, I don't remember the color stripe, but one had 12vDC when I hit the lock button, and one had 12vDC when I hit the unlock button, so I spliced the Viper green wire to the one that had 12v when lock was pressed, and the Viper blue wire when unlock was pressed. Did I splice to the wrong wires, should the Viper green and blue wires be swapped?
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: west coast-BC to Baja
Stopped by for the door hinges.
I don't know what you're doing there but yes the wires are on a 2008 red/pink..red/yellow...or red green.
splice in negative door open to one and negative door lock to the other or possible your system uses only one for both as a sequence.
why the other wires were cut or immobilized ? Prob not.
You are not altering the stock system only adding a separate ground wire relay control.
the wire controls are prob experimentally switchable as the brain unit is foolproofed.
I don't know what you're doing there but yes the wires are on a 2008 red/pink..red/yellow...or red green.
splice in negative door open to one and negative door lock to the other or possible your system uses only one for both as a sequence.
why the other wires were cut or immobilized ? Prob not.
You are not altering the stock system only adding a separate ground wire relay control.
the wire controls are prob experimentally switchable as the brain unit is foolproofed.
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Joined: Dec 2013
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It did not come with a remote, but since the wiring diagram webiste says the pink wires are only if van was remote entry equipped, I would assume the van has it.
I didn't understand a single sentence.
Stopped by for the door hinges.
I don't know what you're doing there but yes the wires are on a 2008 red/pink..red/yellow...or red green.
splice in negative door open to one and negative door lock to the other or possible your system uses only one for both as a sequence.
why the other wires were cut or immobilized ? Prob not.
You are not altering the stock system only adding a separate ground wire relay control.
the wire controls are prob experimentally switchable as the brain unit is foolproofed.
I don't know what you're doing there but yes the wires are on a 2008 red/pink..red/yellow...or red green.
splice in negative door open to one and negative door lock to the other or possible your system uses only one for both as a sequence.
why the other wires were cut or immobilized ? Prob not.
You are not altering the stock system only adding a separate ground wire relay control.
the wire controls are prob experimentally switchable as the brain unit is foolproofed.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Stopped by for the door hinges.
I don't know what you're doing there but yes the wires are on a 2008 red/pink..red/yellow...or red green.
splice in negative door open to one and negative door lock to the other or possible your system uses only one for both as a sequence.
why the other wires were cut or immobilized ? Prob not.
You are not altering the stock system only adding a separate ground wire relay control.
the wire controls are prob experimentally switchable as the brain unit is foolproofed.
I don't know what you're doing there but yes the wires are on a 2008 red/pink..red/yellow...or red green.
splice in negative door open to one and negative door lock to the other or possible your system uses only one for both as a sequence.
why the other wires were cut or immobilized ? Prob not.
You are not altering the stock system only adding a separate ground wire relay control.
the wire controls are prob experimentally switchable as the brain unit is foolproofed.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I'm not familiar with the Viper system although page #37 of your install guide looks strikingly similar to my Omega Crime Guard 350i system.
The PDL's require a full 12 VDC to lock/unlock and without a proper two-relay circuit installed for that purpose the Viper "brain" cannot supply that voltage/current. Here's a schematic for my system, should apply to your's as well:
Not sure where you're physically locating your alarm "brain" but mine is just behind the driver side B Pillar---easy access to the lock/unlock wires running to the rear doors. All switches and solenoids are in parallel anyway so tapping into the correct wires is simple at that location.
If you have Club Wagon trim you'll need to find another location for the unit and tying into chassis wiring. Personally I'd connect into the wiring right side chassis wiring harness near the inertia fuel shut off switch---right side outer kick panel.
Hope this isn't too confusing, hoping more its helpful!
The PDL's require a full 12 VDC to lock/unlock and without a proper two-relay circuit installed for that purpose the Viper "brain" cannot supply that voltage/current. Here's a schematic for my system, should apply to your's as well:
Not sure where you're physically locating your alarm "brain" but mine is just behind the driver side B Pillar---easy access to the lock/unlock wires running to the rear doors. All switches and solenoids are in parallel anyway so tapping into the correct wires is simple at that location.
If you have Club Wagon trim you'll need to find another location for the unit and tying into chassis wiring. Personally I'd connect into the wiring right side chassis wiring harness near the inertia fuel shut off switch---right side outer kick panel.
Hope this isn't too confusing, hoping more its helpful!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I'm not familiar with the Viper system although page #37 of your install guide looks strikingly similar to my Omega Crime Guard 350i system.
The PDL's require a full 12 VDC to lock/unlock and without a proper two-relay circuit installed for that purpose the Viper "brain" cannot supply that voltage/current. Here's a schematic for my system, should apply to your's as well:
Not sure where you're physically locating your alarm "brain" but mine is just behind the driver side B Pillar---easy access to the lock/unlock wires running to the rear doors. All switches and solenoids are in parallel anyway so tapping into the correct wires is simple at that location.
If you have Club Wagon trim you'll need to find another location for the unit and tying into chassis wiring. Personally I'd connect into the wiring right side chassis wiring harness near the inertia fuel shut off switch---right side outer kick panel.
Hope this isn't too confusing, hoping more its helpful!
The PDL's require a full 12 VDC to lock/unlock and without a proper two-relay circuit installed for that purpose the Viper "brain" cannot supply that voltage/current. Here's a schematic for my system, should apply to your's as well:
Not sure where you're physically locating your alarm "brain" but mine is just behind the driver side B Pillar---easy access to the lock/unlock wires running to the rear doors. All switches and solenoids are in parallel anyway so tapping into the correct wires is simple at that location.
If you have Club Wagon trim you'll need to find another location for the unit and tying into chassis wiring. Personally I'd connect into the wiring right side chassis wiring harness near the inertia fuel shut off switch---right side outer kick panel.
Hope this isn't too confusing, hoping more its helpful!
And I have no clue where the fuel shut off switch would be.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
For the correct wire colors you need to access a Ford schematic for your year and chassis. While Viper is a good company they might not be fully aware of every color wire for every model.
The inertia fuel shut off is located in the passenger side foot well, opposite the doghouse or on the outside wall. Its just above the snap-in trim panel. Right below that switch is a mass of wires that's easily accessible.
The inertia fuel shut off is located in the passenger side foot well, opposite the doghouse or on the outside wall. Its just above the snap-in trim panel. Right below that switch is a mass of wires that's easily accessible.
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